A sleeveless camisole top is a wonderful option for all those looking for a casual fun simple top to wear with their jeans, pants and shorts or even skirts.The classic relaxed style of this Aline silhouette is my favourite casual attire.
The folds of the top can hide a multitude of sins ( of eating all those chocolate cakes).The loose and swinging style of this bias cut top with its fitting top portion makes it flattering for most body shapes.And very very easy to sew to boot.
To make this top, make a paper pattern on a folded paper; open it up and keep it on the bias grain of the fabric and cut it out.
Pattern for the Camisole top.
The height of the top I have here is 24 inch. You can increase this to your preference ( to your hip distance maybe)
This is marked as A-D
A-B is the neck width – 3.5″
Mark 1.5 ” from B-G which is the strap width
Mark A- J which is the armhole depth as per the table given last in the post
From J mark to H which is 2 inch added to 1/4 of bust round
Join H – G in a small curve – this is the back neck curve
Give a little slope of 1/2 inch to the shoulder at B-K
We will be marking the front neck curve after cutting the back neck on both the pieces
Mark D-E as 1/4 of hip round + 5 inch
Mark up 3 inches from E to F. Mark D-F in a nice curve
Join H-F; You can shape the bodice at the waist or leave it as it is for a swinging top.
You can increase this to 4 inches for a more curved shape
I would ideally cut the bias cut fabric as single layer, though I didnot do it. Checkout the post on cutting fabric on the bias grain for more details .
Remove one piece from the two pieces which you have cut with the above dimensions( this is the back bodice) ;
on the remaining piece ( which will be the front bodice) which is still folded by the center fold line mark front neck 7″ from B – this is the front neckline
For the front armline mark a little to the inside and join G -H curved to the inside;
1/2 inch inside would do.
How to sew the camisole top
Join the shoulder lines of front and back pieces
Join the side seams
Cut out the bias strips for binding the armhole lines and neckline
1.5 inch strip would do.
Keep the bias strip on the neckline on the backside, edge folded 1/2 inch inside . Pin and start stitching joining the bias strip to the neckline with a 1/4 inch seam allowance
When you end stitching overlap the other end. Here no need to fold the strip edge. When you flip it inside that edge will be hidden
Understitch the seam allowance and bias strip together. ( Understitching will create an additional stitchig line on the binding inside, but makes the binding go to the inside smoothly)
Flip the strip to the wrong side of the garment . Fold the edges and stritch along the edge. Ensure that an equal distance is maintained throughout
Do this same thing for the armline too.
Finish the hemline with a narrow hem. To do a narrow hem, first fold a 1/4 inch inside and stitch very close to the fold.
Trim away the seam allowance ( as closely as possible to the stitching line)
Fold the edge once more 1/4 inch and stitch . You will get a very small and perfect hem
Embellish the top with mirrors
First I interfaced the back of the cloth ( a small piece ) with a thin fusible interfacing
Then I used a fabric gum to glue the mirrors on to the fabric
Waited 10 minutes. I have done very simple straight stitches across the mirrors.Used a long hand needle and some 3-4 strands of thread to stitch the mirrors . Checkout the 7 ways to attach mirrors on to your clothes
You can trim away the interfacing in the back of the fabric around the mirrors. Trim all the spare threads. Press and wear
|Bust measurement inches||Armhole depth|