Sew Guide » DIY Sewing Pattern to make a pretty CAMI DRESS aka SLIP DRESS

DIY Sewing Pattern to make a pretty CAMI DRESS aka SLIP DRESS

cami dress

Those living in a hot area needs no introduction to a cami dress ; It is essentially a summer dress. Those living in a more cold area can also do with the cami slip dress. They can simply slip one over a sweater and tights for a layered outfit that will bring style and warmth. So calling a cami dress a wardrobe staple is not a misfit.

This easy to wear dress comes with a flared bias cut Aline skirt and back zipper.The ultimate beauty is that you can make this easily enough. Just follow the step by step tutorial

Choose a beautiful drapable fabric to sew the cami dress or slip dress. It is a free flowing dress and needs a fabric which allows that. You can sew it in a silk or rayon with a drape; Chiffon, Georgette, simple cotton- so many fabric that fit this description. A heavy weight  fabric is not much recommended, though I think a medium weight denim would work.  A  slip dress made in satin will end up your most favourite night dress of all. Check out the posts on sewing with satin ; sewing with sheer fabric

You can cut the pattern on the straight grain or  cut the fabric on the bias grain. I have  cut the skirt portion on the bias grain and  the bodice  on the straight grain, as I think the bias cut skirt will look and fit better. Checkout this post on fabric cutting tips and on cutting fabric on the bias grain

cami-slip-pattern

Keep the fabric folded and mark the pattern. Even the ones with a center seam.This way you will get a mirror image. Checkout this post on properly cutting fabric

Make  a  front bodice pattern

You will be making the full bodice and then trim it to the cami size. I have given plenty of ease to this pattern. You can reduce the ease by reducing 1/2 inch from I-F & C-D if you want a fitting one. 

A- H = 4 inch
A- F = 7″ ( Checkout the table given below for more accurate measurement for armhole)
I -F =1/4 of Bust round + 2″
C-D = 1/4 of Waist round+ 1.5″
Join F-H ; F-D
Mark B 4 inches from A ( This can be made even lower if you prefer a lower or even plunging neckline)

Mark A- C shoulder to waist length + 1/2 “

D-E = 1/2 “

Join C to E

Join B- G Straight or slightly raised

The red line is your pattern ; Cut out whatever is inside B-G-F-E-C-B

camislip dress pattern

Make a Back bodice pattern

This is going to be cut by the center fold line to join the zipper ; hence it is made slightly wider by 1 inch along  the center fold line

A- H = 5 inch
A- F = 7″
I -F =1/4 of Bust round + 3″
C-D = 1/4 of Waist round+ 2.5″
Join F-H ; F-D
Mark A- C shoulder to waist length + 1/2 “

D-E = 1/2 “

Join C to E

Cut along I- C -E-F ; Now cut it by the centre fold line

cami dress pattern

 

Make the skirts

Front skirt is one piece and the back skirt has two fabric pieces, just like the bodice

Fold the fabric by half. Mark the measurements and cut

Front skirt

A- C – length of skirt from waist to knee ( or whatever length you want) + 1.5″

C- E -Flare of the skirt – 1/4 of hip round + 3 -4 inches
A-B – 1/2″
A-F – /14 of waist round + 2″
D-E = 2″
Join C-D; D-F ; F-B
Cut along B-F-D-C-B; Open up the fabric for the full one piece front skirt piece.

cami slip dress pattern

Back skirt

A- C – length of skirt from waist to knee + 1.5″
A-B – 1/2″
A-F – /14 of waist round + 3″
D-E = 2″
Join C-D; D-F ; F-B
Cut along B-F-D-C-B

Cut along the center fold line of the skirt piece

cami dress pattern

Now you have 6 fabric pieces

Bias strips for straps  -You also need 2 bias binding strips of 10 inches long and 1.5 inches wide;Checkout the armhole length table given at the end of this post for exact measurement of the strap. Double the armhole length for your bust round and subtract the measurement from G to the line F-I on the front bodice pattern. Add 1 inch extra for fabric edges. 

Facing pieces – Make a copy of the top edge of the front bodice for making a facing piece, including the armhole line . The facing piece should be atleast 2 inches wide. The back bodice facing pieces are long rectangles of 3 inch width and length equal to the top bodice edge + 1/2 inch.

cami slip dress

Steps to sewing the cami slip  dress

Step 1

Join the front bodice to the skirt 

cami slip dress pattern

Join the back bodice pieces to the back skirt pieces

camidress2

Step 2

Zipper seam -Keep the back pieces right sides together. pin along the center seam.Check the length of the zipper. Mark. Stitch this area with a basting stitch ( with a long stitch length).Join the rest of the seam with a regular stitch length.

Put on the zipper foot on your machine. Keep the zipper face down on the back of the bodice seam. align the zipper opening perfectly with the center seam. Pin in place.

cami slip dress pattern

Stitch along the two sides of the zipper . checkout this post on zipper application for more details.

Once the zipper is stitched, remove the basting stitches with a seam ripper.

cami slip dress

Step 3

Get the 10 inch long  bias tape ( make bias tape with the tutorial here from the same fabric of the dress) Make spaghetti straps. Checkout this tutorial to make a thin fabric tube which can be used as spaghetti strap.

Step 4

Finish the top edge of the  the front bodice with the all in one facing piece.Keep the strap sandwiched in between the bodice and facing ( right sides together) so that when the stitching is done the fabric edge of the strap will be neatly encased inside. 

cami slip dress pattern

The facing pieces for the back bodice are rectangles which match the top edges and are about  2 inch wide.Remember to fold the edge near the zipper opening inside and pin in place  before sewing the top edge and facing and the other end of the strap together along the top edge

slip dress pattern

Top stitch the edge in place. You may have to handstitch the facing to the back.

cami dress

If these steps are not clear checkout the tutorial to make a slip which has the same thing explained. 

Step 4

Sew the side seams. Make sure that the waist seams match.

Step 5

Finish the hem of the skirt. It is preferred that you hang the skirt for a day or overnight before hemming. I have done a narrow hem. 

cami slip dress pattern

Bust measurement inchesArmhole depth
2661/4

286 3/4
306 3/4
327
347 1/4
367 1/4
387 1/4
407 1/2
427 1/2

 

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