Step 1. Pattern for the front tie shirt
Front bodice ( 2 pieces ) Make on folded fabric and cut along the center
A-O = 30″
A-B= 19″ (or waist length + 1″)
A-C = 5″
A-E = 3.5″
E-D = B-F=1″
J-P = 1/4 of bust round+ 2″ ( If you want a tighter fit reduce the extra by 1/2 inch )
F-I = 1/4 of waist + 2″
A-K = 1/2 of shoulder + 1″
M-L = 1″
F-G = 4″
Back bodice. Mark on folded fabric.
A-B= 19″ (or waist length + 1″)
A-C = 4″
A-E = 1″
J-P = 1/4 of bust round+ 1.5″
F-I = 1/4 of waist + 1.5″
A-K = 1/2 of shoulder
For the shoulder slope mark down 1″ from the top edge. Mark a little to the inside from the shoulder line ( 1/2″) for the armline
Mark straight down from K to L on the bust line. Go diagonal and mark 1″ from L to M
Cut out the pattern pieces
Front pattern – 2 pieces
Step 3 Embroidery
Did some small eyelet stitch ( star stitch)
Step 4 Join the shoulders
Join front bodices to the back bodice by the shoulders.
Make a facing pattern for the bottom edge from the same fabric .
Keep the facing and the bottom edge right sides together and stitch along the edge. Turn it rightside out and top stitch along the edge. Use a hand sewing needle with matching thread to stitch the facing in place along the edge with really tiny whip stitches
Step 6 Make stands for buttons and buttonholes
Cut a piece of interfacing ( thin) 3/4 inch strip the length equalling the center edge.
Keep this piece 1/4 inch from the center edge on the wrong side ( do this with both the left and right bodices) . Press with a hot iron. Turn under the 1/4 inch edge towards the interfacing and press in place
Turn the interfacing to the back of the bodice. This is for the stand for button and buttonhole; For girls left side bodice is for buttonholes and right for buttons.
Stitch in place
Measure around the neckline( including the button and buttonhole stand)
Make a pattern for the collar as follows.
Cut a piece of interfacing in this measure FOR THE COLLAR STAND AND THE COLLAR. Keep this interfacing cut in the shape of the collar and collar stand on top of the fabric ( two layers). Press a hot iron on top of the interfacing so that it adheres to the fabric. Measure 1/4 inches all around from the edge of the interfacing piece. Mark this ( the red line in the picture below). Cut out this. You will have two pieces of the collar and two pieces of the collar stand.
Do the same with the bigger collar as well.
You will get 2 pieces like this ; one with the interfacing attached and one without
Stitch around the collar like this ( red line is stitching line) all over the top edge
Turn the collar rightside out. Use a sharp object to turn the points out.
Top stitch the collar.
Take the collar stand pieces. Keep them rightsides together. Sandwich the collar inside so that the cut edge is inside the collar stand pieces.
Stitch along the red line.
Turn rightside out and you will have a collar like this here
Keep this collar on the wrong side neckline edge.Open the collar and Sew as the picture.
Turn the collar to the rightside and sew the other edge ( you will have to topstitch after turning under the edge)
Mark the buttonholes. Buttonholes are made first before the buttons.
Make the buttonholes with the machine or by hand.On the collar stand the buttonhole is horizontal ( almost diagonal) and on the buttonhole stand they are vertical.
Stitch the buttons in corresponding places on the other stand.
Bind the armhole lines with a long bias strip. Do the two armholes.Checkout the bias binding post for how to do this
Finish the bottom edge of the back bodice with a fabric strip. STitch in place.
Stitch the side seams.
Ref: Armhole depth
|Bust measurement inches||Armhole depth|