Sew Guide » How to sew a {PERFECT} Welt Pocket – Single & Double welt pocket tutorials

How to sew a {PERFECT} Welt Pocket – Single & Double welt pocket tutorials

Welt pocket as you know is a beautiful slit pocket you usually see in coats and jackets, with a bound pocket opening. It has a pocket bag in the wrong side of the garment and can be sewn with or without a flap

Welt Pockets come in all sizes. They are  positioned straight or inclined. The elegant look they give a garment is something else. They are equally beautiful and functional. What more do you want from pockets?

Making a Welt pockets look way more difficult than they actually are. You can make these pockets very easily.  The method to make single and double are basically the same. 

How to make a single welt pocket

For making a single welt pocket you need

  • 1. Welt rectangle

Cut out a rectangular piece of fabric of the following dimensions
Width – pocket opening + 3 inch
Length – Pocket width ( which is usually 1/2 inc) + 6 inch 

Usually a pocket is 6 inches wide. So you can use a rectangle of  9 inch by 6 1/2  inch

how to make an easy welt pocket

  • 2. Pocket bag

Make a big enough pocket bag with the following dimensions
1 pieces of rectangle
Width – same as the welt facing rectangle ( in this case 9 inch )
length – double depth needed from the opening+ 2 inch ( you can increase the length to the waistband. This is then sewn together with the waistband. This will strengthen the pocket. but it is optional.)

Here I have taken 15 inch by 9 inch piece for the pocket bag

  • 3. Interfacing

Cut out a very light weight interfacing the same size as the welt rectangle; This is to be attached to the wrong side of the fabric where you will be marking the pocket opening for added strength. This is optional but recommended as pockets apply pressure on the fabric and the fabric need the strength of interfacing to withstand this.

4. The main garment – of course silly.

How to Stitch a welt pocket 

Step 1. Decide on the pocket opening – length and width. Mark this on the wrong side of the fabric where you want your pocket. Say you want a 6 inch by 1/2 inch wide pocket. Baste with a hand needle and thread on the right side of the fabric if you are using paper patterns. ( Basting is optional)

Step 2. Apply interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric, exactly where you want your pocket opening. 

Step 3. Mark the pocket opening as a box on the welt rectangle piece as in the picture below. I usually take a 1/2 inch wide opening buy for narrow welts you have to bring the lines closer together.

Mark a center line between the box with 2 diagonal lines to the corners on both sides as in the picture.
Finish the edges of this piece with a zig zag stitch or an overlocker.

welt pocket single sewing

Step 4. Pin this piece to the right side of the fabric along the box you have sewn. 

Step 5. Sew along the two parallel horizontal lines of the welt pocket with a very tight stitch (Stitch length 2-3). You have to be very precise and exact when sewing this and want to start and end exactly where you have marked the lines. Do not sew the vertical smaller lines.


Step 6. Cut through the middle and make diagonal snips as drawn. Your thread snips could be used for this. It should be very sharp. You should cut just close enough to the stitching at the corners for you to get this perfectly turned.

Step 7. Turn the welt facing rectangle to the inside.

This is a look from the wrong side after the welt rectangle is inserted inside. 

how to sew single welt pocket

Step 8. Start Pressing.
Start pressing the seams. 
Turn the bottom of the welt rectangle and Press the seam allowances open.

Press the top of the welt
Press the bottom of the welt
Press the sides and top of the welt flat.
Press from the right side of garment the TOP and SIDES of the welt and manipulate it to look perfect.(Do not press the BOTTOM)

Step 9. Now to create the welt, which is simply a fold of the bottom part of the welt rectangle. 
Turn to the wrong side of the garment.Fold up the bottom portion of the facing rectangle . The fold should just touch the top of the welt window. This will form the binding or the welt for your pocket opening.

welt pocket

Step 10. Stitch the welt in place . For this you will have to uncover the triangle cut earlier on the sides from the middle cut and stitch it together with the welt  fold. Do it for both sides of the pocket.


how to stitch a pocket

Step 11. Make the pocket bag 
( I use the same fabric for the pocket bag as the garment fabric. But you can choose to make the pocket bag from a different fabric other than the garment fabric but be aware that this fabric will be showing to the outside through the welt opening. An alternative is to use a piece of the garment as a facing attached to the pocket bag fabric near the opening so that this will show through the opening)

Step 12.Attach the pocket bag to the welt opening

First Finish the edges with a zig zag or overlock 

From the wrong side of garment, Sew one top edge of the pocket bag piece to seam allowance at the bottom of the welt rectangle ;then the other edge is sewn to the top of the facing.
Pin this piece at the top to the wrong side of the fabric on top of the welt facing rectangle

Now we have to sew the sides. Pin the pockets together. Make sure that you are not catching any of the main garment. Stitch around using a 1/2 inch seam allowance.

How to sew a Double Welt Pocket

The directions for sewing a double welt pocket is the same as that of the single welt pocket. The only difference being that the fold for the welts will be taken from the top and bottom of the welt rectangle. In the single welt pocket the fold is taken from the bottom of the welt rectangle. Hence the welt opening should be drawn exactly in the middle of the welt rectangle

In this case each welt will be having exactly half the width of the welt opening. ie if you have a 1/2 inch welt opening the welts will be 1/4 inch each.

how to sew a double welt pocket