When buying a bag or making one yourself, one of the most important things you take into consideration is the bag fabric material it is made of. The material is what makes the bag, other than the hardware which is as important.
Your bag fabric should be durable, sturdy, resilient, tear-resistant, lightweight, breathable,and flexible. You may also want your bag to be insulated, waterproof, and water-resistant. Depends on your purpose.
Bonded Nylon, PU leather and leather have always been the favourites. But there are other materials as well. Here is a list of the best materials you must consider for bags.
Bag Exterior fabrics
1. Synthetic Leather & Synthetic suede
Synthetic leather is actually Polyurethane (PU) with the look of original leather. There are so many different types of synthetic leather like PU (Polyurethane leather, PVC (Polyvinyl chloride leather), microfiber leather (Supple leather look-alike with a nonwoven base).
You will find synthetic leather as a fabric base with a solid PVC or PU coating -typically referred to as CC material (Chrome-coated cruelty-free material). It is called vegan leather for a reason.
Earlier I had this listed far down this list, but today I would keep this on top because of many reasons, especially for professional looking bags – one of them is its variety – matte, glossy, metallic, embossed patterns, even reptile or fabric blends; Another reason is its reasonable, cost, for a look similar to real leather (well, almost). It is water-resistant and easy to maintain.
And if you are making bags commercially, one big plus is that, you get consistent look throughout – no blemish, no stains or worn out areas like in leather .
But, if you do not have a suitable sewing machine that handles thick seams, skip the thick variety and go down the list.
If you want very soft premium material look out for microfiber leather. If you want a lesser costing material, but still soft checkout the PU leather options. PVC leather has a stiff feel.
Rexine is a common generic term used to describe synthetic leather (usually PVC leather) – though Rexine is a trademarked name of the artificial leather produced by a UK company called Rexine Ltd. You can learn more about Faux leather here.
Microfiber varieties – Synthetic suede looks just like the original suede and is more expensive than synthetic leather. Microsuede is a microfiber fabric which looks just like suede but can be washed.
Bonded leather is leather made with ground real leather scraps which is then spread on a polyurethane backing – it can look really like leather without being expensive. Some will call bonded leather recycled leather or eco-friendly leather because of the way it is made, compared to real leather.
Washable paper is a leather and fabric alternative that is tear-resistant, water-resistant – that looks very much like leather, especially when it is washed, giving it a vintage leather look. The strength may be compromised by holes made by pins, too small stitches, washing with detergent etc.
Read more on suede leather and also suede like materials.
2. Home decorating fabrics
To make bags, you need a sturdy fabric which looks good. The home decorating fabrics available in the upholstery section of the fabric store, the ones used for making upholstery covers and draperies, fit these criteria very well – they are naturally thick heavyweight fabrics, with enough structure for an upright bag.
You may think that you can get away without interfacing these fabrics as they are thick and still get a not-so-slouchy bag. But that is not true, as fabrics always need interfacing. And most of the upholstery material are of loose weave. So, though they are thick, it is better to use interfacing to make them stiff enough for making stand up bags.
Some upholstery fabric frays at the edges and has to be taken care of with a serger.
3. Leather
In an ideal world, I would be buying unlimited quantities of leather to make all my bags. But….. it is costly and difficult to source.
You can buy cowhides in heavy or medium weights for making bags- buy small sizes for making it affordable. Lambskin is a finer variety of leather than cowhide but more expensive. Other options in leather are pigskin and snakeskin, bison leather
Obviously, the number one choice for bag making because of the elegant looks but the reason why many people do not use it is because it is more expensive and it is also a little tricky to sew leather.
4. Vinyl
Vinyl is one of the most used fabrics in commercial bag making. Clear vinyl is, as the name says, clear and see through – it can be used to make clear beach bags, cosmetic bags etc; Flannel backed vinyl fabric is another very commonly used bag material. It is even used without lining – the vinyl fabric is naturally glossy. Lightweight and wipe-clean care are its advantages.
People can get confused between vinyl and fake leather – if it has a woven fabric backing you will know it is vinyl and not faux leather.
Related post: How to sew with Vinyl.
5. Outdoor fabric (Usually nylon)
Outdoor fabrics are all very sturdy, withstand abrasion, and sometimes waterproof. They last a long time because of their durability. Bonded layer on top of Nylon makes it stiffer, water-resistant, and more durable. 1000 denier Cordura Nylon is regularly used to make backpack bags, totes, etc. Sunbrella is another fabric used for making backpacks, beachbags, tote bags. Ballistic Nylon is one of the most durable fabrics out there – best for making outdoor backpacks that stand the test of time.
You can find more durable fabric list and branded synthetic fabrics here.
These are usually synthetic fabrics that melt in high heat, so care has to be taken not to expose them to high heat from iron etc. You can use this for making the bottom of the bags as the sturdy material will not wear easily.
Related Post: Waterproof textiles
6. Cork
Cork is a material used as an alternative to leather – it is made from the bark of the cork oak tree. It is eco-friendly and very soft, pliable and can be sewn easily with any sewing machine. Leather can be damaged with water, while cork is washable. It is hypoallergenic, scratch-proof and stain-resistant. And whatever stain is there, it can be wiped away easily.
Unlike faux leather, it doesn’t get damaged easily and doesn’t crack or peel, even when you fold it. It is durable and easily maintainable. You can also get away with not interfacing it, if you wish so. It is also less expensive than leather. The only problem is its unavailability in all places.
7. Canvas
Canvas is a thick plain weave cotton or linen material, very much suitable for making bags. The options among canvas are cotton woven canvas and synthetic canvas. Duck canvas, with tightly woven yarn is the most suitable canvas for bag making.
You can also try slub canvas, laminated cotton canvas, and coated nylon canvas (waterproof canvas). The waterproof wax canvas looks really nice for making bags.
Canvas is quite stiff and you may not need any interfacing. But any bag will look better with some interfacing.
8. Wool
Wool is a sturdy material and quite good to make bags with. Felted wool bags are really beautiful with that felted texture and beautiful designs.
9. Medium weight natural fabrics
Cotton fabric (Dressmaking/quilting variety), linen, silk, satin, dressmaking denim etc can be used to make bags, provided they are given backing with proper interfacing. Peau de soie is used for making pretty purses. Other pretty fabrics like satin, silk brocade, crepe, moire velvet are also used.
Use iron-on interfacing on the back to make them sturdy enough to make bags with. The interfacing fabric is ironed on the reverse side of the fabric to stiffen it. Ultra firm fusible interfacing can be used. A fleece layer can be included as extra backing.
Some people also use a liquid starch spray on the face of the fabric to further make it stiff. You need all the stiffness you can get for your bag fabric for good looking bags.
Quilted cotton fabric
When you quilt thin cotton, they take on the stiffness you need for making bags. Quilted cotton fabric is a beautiful bag making fabric. You can use pre-quilted fabric or make quilted fabric with cotton fabric.
The process to make quilted fabric is quite simple – Use simple quilting/dressmaking cotton fabric for this. You also need a batting and a backing fabric. You can also skip the backing fabric and use the lining fabric to cover the back.
First Interface the cotton fabric. Then starch the exterior fabric by spraying the fabric with liquid starch spray. Sandwich fleece or foam or batting between the exterior fabric and backing fabric and quilt away. Use this quilted fabric like your regular fabric to make your bag.
10. Neoprene rubber
This synthetic rubber is one of the best materials for making toiletry bags and beach bags – it is soft to touch and waterproof. Add a waterproof lining and you have a watertight bag.
Interfacing
You can use a firm interfacing (fusible interfacing or sew in interfacing which is thick like canvas) or fusible fleece to give your bags structure. For a more structured, sturdier tote, use Flex-Foam (1/4″ high quality foam sheets). For a slouchy look, use a canvas inner liner. If you want even more structured box-like bags, you should get chip board (soft board) or medium texture board.
Know more about how to choose interfacing here.
Lining
Generally you can choose a neutral color inside as lining – cream, tan, pale grey or beige are good as colors for lining – these colors go well with most bag exterior fabric colors. Know more about lining fabric choices here.
What fabric to use for lining a bag?
If you are making the bag for yourself you can use anything you have. If you have old bed sheets, that is a good lining for the bags you make for yourself. Or fabric from old clothes, fabric scraps from other sewing projects. The lining cloth can be matching the bag cloth material for a co-ordinated effect.
But if you are making and selling bags you need high-quality lining. You can use cotton fabric as a lining or synthetic fabrics like polyester/nylon. Thin cotton may need to be interfaced. Twill fabric or duck canvas can be used without interfacing. Some prefer waterproof fabrics like Cordura for lining their bags.
Is leather a better material than faux leather for making bags?
High quality leather is a very durable material that can last a long time, with its look almost intact. Faux leather can develop cracking, peeling etc, sooner than later.
But leather is expensive. So at different price points, both materials can be useful. When you buy leather, all parts may not be useful for the same project. It may have natural inconsistencies, with variations in texture, color, and grain pattern, as it is natural skin (unless it is bonded leather and you have been duped). Whereas faux leather can almost look like leather, with consistent patterns throughout – no wastage, overall cost effective.
But, again, leather lasts a lifetime, where-as synthetic leathers shows its wear and tear soon enough. I have so many synthetic bags, which are worn out at the edges, a few months after they are bought.
Which fabric is recommended for making a bag for hiking and other outdoor activities?
For this you need fabrics which are durable, weather-resistant, and able to withstand the demands of the outdoors. Cordura Nylon, Thick Ripstop Nylon, Coated polyester fabrics, Other PVC, PU-coated, TPU-coated materials, Waxed canvas and other heavy duty canvas are the usual choices for outdoor bags
Related post : Different types of hardware and supplies used to make bags; How to make and sell bags; What kind of bag do you have?.
Very good. Thank you.
who wrote this.
I am sewing pouch made from our native weave cloth from benguet philippines, i want to sew bag from it what is the best interfacing.
Hi Charity
Can you look at this post on interfacing – Different types of interfacing
Is it a must to use net fibre tape in fabric bags
Nice firbrics for bags and sheos
Good and classic
nice article related to bags and their lining.
thanks
I was planning to make a messenger bag with buckles. Its sex-neutral kind of bag. The pattern calls for foam and shape flex. Please, advice me if I still have to use foam and shape flex for duck canvas.
Thank you, so very much.
Like all of these posts thank you
Should post more often to say thanks….
Thanks Dawn