{BLIND STITCH} the hem of a pants – by hand and by machine

A pant hem is such an important element in the final look of the pants that sewing it requires you to give the utmost thought to it. But think no more. The blind hem is here. Pant hems with a blind hem finish looks really professional and meticulous, with the stitching almost invisible on the face of the garment. To top it, it is not a difficult hem to sew.

You can sew a blind hem by hand as well as on a sewing machine.When you make a blind hem on a sewing machine it looks from inside like a regular hand stitched turned under hem, with a decorative stitch. The difference is the nearly impossible to see stitches on the outside of the garment.This effect is the result of a manipulated fold when making the hem.This manipulation is quite easy and results in the invisible hem stitches which is so professional. When sewing this hem by hand the stitches are hidden inside the fold of the hem and the garment, so stitches are truly invisible inside as well as outside.

When you stitch the blind hem on your sewing machine it is difficult to know that it is a machine stitched one. It is as good as a carefully hand stitched hem. ( Checkout the other 15 hand sewn hemming stitches and the 20 different hems you can sew on sewing machines.

The only requirements for a blind stitch hem made on a sewing machine are a zig zag foot and a blind hem stitch. You also need atleast 1.5 inches seam allowance to stitch the hem.

It is better if you can get hold of the nylon blind stitch thread which is really thin but very strong – just the right thread for sewing a blind stitched hem.

If you are making this hem for the first time it is better to test it on a piece of scrap than on your precious garment. Also when sewing the original always choose an exact colour match thread. If you have not got an exact match choose a darker colour than a lighter colour. Lighter colour thread will stand out. 

(It is marvel today to think that in earlier days girls have been doing this stitch on a straight sewing machine . Involves a lot of pivoting though but your earlier passionate seamstresses who did not have the luxury of a zigzag sewing machine used to manage making this beautiful hem finish even then.)

The blind hem stitch needs a stretchable thread on the sewing machine if you are doing the blind hem stitch on a widening hem. If that is not possible it is better to do it by hand.

How to do blind stitch on a sewing machine

Step 1

Turn your garment wrong side out.

Mark the hems . The first mark is made 1/2 inch from fabric edge ; then 1 inch from the first mark.You will get a final 1″ hem. 

blind hem

Step 2

Turn under first 1/2 inch. Press in place

blind hem stitch

Step 3

Turn under next 1 inch mark. Press.

blind hem

Step 4

Now fold this hem into the inside of the garment ( which is the right side of the garment), so that 1/8 inch of the fold of the hem is extending outside, beyond the newly made fold.( In case you are hemming a plain fabric fold the hem edge to the right side of the fabric.) Now you can see only the 1/8 part of the folded hem, the rest is inside the garment.

Pin in place if you want to. Below is the picture of the pant leg wrong side out, with the folded hem inside.

blind hem

Step 5

Thread a matching thread on the sewing machine and the bobbin. Place the garment on the sewing machine. 

Select the blind hem stitch. It will look like as in the picture below. 

blind hem

Keep the needle aligned on top of the extending edge of hem.

blind hem stitch

The blind hem stitch consists of 5 straight stitches and then a zig zag stitch. Start doing the stitch, with the straight stitches falling on the extended fold of the hem, and with the zig zag stitch just grazing the main fabric and taking one thread there and then returning to do more straight stitches.You may have to adjust the stitch width so that only the tip of the zig zag stitch is touching the main fabric on the left. 

blind stitch

Finish stitching the whole length of the hem. You will be happy to find the beautiful hem you have just made.

On the inside there is a line of beautiful blind hem stitch.

how to make a blind hem on pants

And on the outside invisible stitches ( I am using yellow thread but if I was using blue thread you wouldn’t have seen any of  the tiny stitches)

Step 6

Press the hem. There will be a fold near the stitches which will go away with the press of a hot iron.

 

How to do blind stitch by hand

Step 1

Follow the above steps till Step 4. Make a similar fold as you have done above with a 1/8 inch projection.

blind hem stitch by hand

Step 2

Thread the sewing needle with a single strand of thread of a matching colour. 

Step 3

After anchoring the knotted thread inside the fold , start stitching by taking one thread width of fabric from the main garment.

blind hem stitch

 

Then take the needle to the hem fold and take a two or three width stitch . Go back to the main garment and take a single thread width stitch. Continue in this fashion.

hand blind stitch sewing

All these stitches are made inside the fold and the garment, hence hidden when you open the fold. Open the fold and press the hem carefully.

hem stitch

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