Invisible Hem : 4 best methods

Can you sew an Invisible hem ? Yes, definitely. The term Invisible means ‘not visible to the eye’ – Meaning, it is there, but you just cannot see it. 

The usual way we hem is to turn under the hem allowance to the inside twice and machine stitch. It is nice enough. But it is far from ‘invisible’. At times you prefer some invisibility.

Invisible hem

There are 4 easy ways you can make this visible hem stitching disappear conveniently.

Method 1 Invisible hem by machine

Can you see the hem stitching here ?

In this method, you get a hem that is hanging on to the lining – this way the hem stitch is not visible at all from the outside. Yes, invisible. 

To make this hem, you need the outer piece (that you are going to hem) and a lining piece.The lining should be thin enough, not weighing the outer fabric down. An organza or voile can be used.

You should cut the outer piece a little bigger and lining piece a little smaller for this method to work.

For a hem with a one inch hem allowance 

For the outer fabric – add 1 1/4 inch extra for turning under the hem (other than the 1″ hem allowance).

For the lining – First cut lining the same as outer fabric ; then cut off 1 3/4 inch from the bottom edge

Now keep the two pieces right sides together – align the two pieces together at the bottom edge. ( Do not worry about the imbalance at the top edge now; this will be balanced later)

invisible hem

Sew with a 1/4 inch seam allowance

Press the seam allowance open

invisible hem

Fold the hem with the seam allowance inside, so that the hem allowance is 1 inch – this way the outer fabric is folded 1 inch to the inside, as in the picture below.

invisible hem


Turn over – There, your hem is invisibly stitched.

Method 2 Hand sew hem with invisible stitches

Hand sewing can create beautifully invisible stitches. You can learn about making 5 types of invisible stitches in this post

But for hemming my favorite (and of course the easiest) is the ordinary hemming stitch. 

To get true blue invisibility you need to use an exact shade sewing thread and a very thin needle.

invisible hem

Fold the hem twice and press in place.

invisible hemming  

Secure the thread knot inside the folds as you begin stitching. 

Start stitching the hemming stitches – slantingly taking one thread from the outer fabric and one thread from the fold; continue doing this till the whole hem is finished.

invisible hem

If you do it right the hem finish is impeccable and almost invisible. 

invisible hem stitch

Method 3 Use Blind hem stitch (sewing machine)

Another alternative is to use a Blind hem stitch on your sewing machine – it creates a hem that looks like an invisible hand sewn hem. Check out this post on Blind stitch for more details on how to do it.

how to make a blind hem on pants

Method 3 Use a concealed catch stitch (handmade)

easy hand sewing stitch

A catch stitch is herringbone stitch used to hem. You can make this stitch between the layers of fabrics  of the hem – total invisibility (well, almost) on either side of the hem.

Related posts : Different ways to hand hem ; 20 Different ways to finish hem with machine; Sewing tips and Techniques.


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