The lining is not for the fainthearted in sewing. But once you line a garment you are sold for life. The change in the look and drape of the clothing makes you a convert. Jackets, trousers, skirts, coats, dresses – you may want to line all that you sew.
Related post – Learn more about lining and its importance in the post “What is lining in sewing?“.
Which inner lining fabric is suitable for winter baby clothes?
I would not use stiff cottons or synthetics. Modal, Rayon and silk satin are soft and smooth for baby skin.
So How to choose the best lining fabric for your clothes and what to choose?
The 3 factors that determine the fabric you choose for lining are as follows
Colour of the outer fabric
Usually, you need a fabric that matches the color exactly to that of the outer fabric; otherwise, the color of the whole garment may be distorted. If that is impossible, choose a dark color (lighter color will stand out). Sometimes a contrasting color is selected for a special effect.
When going shopping for the lining fabric, take the outer fabric with you and compare both the fabrics in good sunlight or under white lighting.
What type of lining can be used under lace?
Lace is sheer and delicate so you need lining to give it structure as well as covering. It should also not distort lace. Satin is usually used. Crepe is soft against skin and matches the delicateness of lace. Cotton voile can be used under cotton lace, but for stretch lace you should use a stretch lining. Usually Nude powder mesh is used which looks one with the skin.
Purpose of the clothing
This is important as one person may want a warm fabric for insulation and warmth during winter but another may need a thin breathable fabric during summer. Some look out for colourful or printed fabric that will add an interest to the inside of the garment, some want to add structure to the garment and may be looking for a thicker fabric.
You will need a durable easy maintenance fabric for lining clothes that you will wear often, but for occasion only clothes (which you mean to dry clean and then store) you can choose a similar high maintenance lining material.
Do not choose a slippery fabric for lining clothes fitted with boning, or if strapless. You do not want the fabric to slip down.
Compatibility with the outer fabric
This is the most important. The lining fabric should be of the same weight or slightly of lesser weight than the outer fabric. Choose a firmly woven fabric. The care of the outer fabric and lining should be the same.
The lining is expected to be lightweight thin and slippery so that you have no difficulty putting on and take off the garment
Fabric choices for lining
Best fabric for lining shirts
Shirts are usually not fully lined, they may be lined only on certain portions and usally self fabric is used. But if your outer material is sheer or scratchy you may want to line it fully. You can use soft and fine cotton like batiste, or Rayon.
Viscose/Rayon/Cupro
Rayon has thin fibers and because of this the fabric is very much suited to make a lining. It is breathable and soft, pliable and lightweight. It would not stick to your body even in hot sweaty weather.
100% viscose and 100% Cupro lining materials are also much in demand for lining as they are soft anti-static and lightweight.
Bemberg rayon is a popular branded rayon fabric (Cupro) used to line dresses suits and coats. It is breathable, soft, antistatic anti-clinging super comfortable and overall a superstar lining material. Viscose Ermazine Taffeta is a popular lining material used by bespoke tailors for suit jackets. Ermazine is somewhat sheer.
Anti-static Rayon twill fabric is very good as lining if you need a more weighty fabric. These are to be hand washed. Machine wash may damage the fibers. Rayon crepe back satin is a good choice
Cotton
This is the most popular fabric for making linings – and the most comfortable against your skin. Cotton is made from natural fibers so it is breathable and very comfortable against the skin as it wicks moisture well.
Thin lining cotton material does not add extra bulk to the whole garment. This is important for fitting dresses and trousers.
Cotton lining is the best choice when sewing for kids or when lining summer clothes.
One problem some might see against using cotton as a lining material is that it does not glide smoothly like some other fabric, which is a criteria many look for when selecting lining fabric, especially for highend jackets and coats.
If you want that soft and silky feeling for the inside of the garment cotton is not for you – it may be rougher than the other lining materials mentioned here, especially the cheaper ones. Cotton may not look luxurious or expensive.
Another problem with a cotton lining is that it wrinkles a lot. Also if you do not preshrunk cotton fabric it will shrink after the first wash and thus may distort the garment as it will shrink differently from lining.
Cotton Poplin is frequently used as a thin soft lining material. Voile and Lawn are used to line fine dresses. Cotton batiste, muslin, percale are other favorites. If you want a lining that should wear well, choose a plain or twill weave cotton fabric. Cotton plaid is usually preferred inside suits.
Silk
Silk is synonymous with luxury and when you want that extra bit for a once-in-a-life-time dress you may want to use silk against your skin. It is breathable and very soft. Be prepared to part with a lot of money, as silk is very expensive so when added to the cost of fashion fabric used for the outside, the outfit turns out to be very expensive.
China silk is a comparatively inexpensive lightweight silk used as lining. In an shop the sales girl would first offer this as a lining material. It has a nice drape and great under lightweight fabrics.
Silk taffeta is a crisp thin fabric and holds its shape inside the garment. This is a favourite lining material for lightweight /medium weight fabrics especially for dresses and skirts which need some shape/volume without bulk.
Habutai lining fabric/Silk Satin is used to line wedding dresses. Dupioni silk is a thicker silk that can add some body to your garment. Silk Charmeuse & Silk Crepe De Chine are lightweight soft silk used for lining. They are also great for lining. Silk crepe back satin is more weighty (twice the weight of crepe de chine or charmeuse) and just as good for your purpose for suits, jackets, coats.
Silk organza is another favourite thin lining fabric.
Polyester or polyester blends
In all ready to wear clothes polyester lining is the most often used lining material- because it is inexpensive. Fast fashion needs inexpensive. Period.
But there is another big reason why I would use synthetic materials like polyester – the wrinkling of natural fabrics. I dislike the wrinkly lining look inside and it is a pain to iron the whole lining.
It is a shiny synthetic fabric that is very easy to care for. It is cheap and may look cheap. Another disadvantage is that it is not breathable and does not absorb sweat so may make you uncomfortable if you wear it long.
Polyester sheath lining is a smooth, lightweight woven polyester that is good for lining pants, skirts etc. It is very soft and no wrinkles. Poly china silk is a cheap alternative to the expensive silk lining. It is soft, silky drapey and lightweight.
Satin made of polyester fibers is often used because of the soft feel. Satin usually has a smooth surface on the face and a matt surface on the back. Satin is available in many weights and many price range so it is a favourite as a lining fabric for inexpensive evening wear and costumes.
Polycotton is another favourite with more weight – it is a blend of 50% Cotton, 50% Polyester fibers and is great as a curtain liner. Polyester taffeta is your lining fabric if you want a crisp tightly woven lining. Polyester organza is good as a sheer lining for lace fabrics.
Acetate
Acetate is the best lining material for occasion wear clothes (those which do not see much wear – or use and throw clothes). This is a shiny synthetic fabric which is quite inexpensive. Most of the ready to wear jackets and coats use acetate lining. The advantages of acetate lining fabric over polyester fabric are many – for one, it is more breathable and more comfortable to wear. It is static free and also thicker than polyester.
It is dry clean only and not as durable as polyester. It also frays a lot so you may not want this for your tight fitting clothes.
Stretch Lining
When you are sewing a knit garment or one made with another stretchy fabric you need a stretchy lining too. The stretch lining fabric may be woven or knit.
Stretch woven lining material will have lycra added to it. Knit lining has more stretch than woven lining. Lighter the fabric more the stretch, so choose accordingly. Choose a lining that has similar properties as that of your outer fabric.
Tricot knit lining is used as lining under activewear clothes. Mesh knits are also used as it can wick perspiration from the body. You can also use lightweight rayon knits as lining fabric.
Thick Insulating lining fabrics
For coats and jackets you may need a thicker fabric for added warmth. Fleece, fake fur, wool blend fabrics are used for this purpose. Fleece is the most preferred as it is easy to maintain. Cotton canvas is also used.
Water-proof lining for Bags
Ripstop Nylon with PU or TPU coating is the most suitable lining material. It gives the best water protection and durability. You can just wipe it clean. PVC or Vinly, Oil cloth or laminated cotton can also be used. PUL or polyurethane laminate is the most soft and flexible option.
So finally among these lining fabric choices what would I prefer to line my dresses with – If it is a couture garment may be a china silk or silk habotai.
What lining is used under evening dresses?
Silk Habotai, a soft and semi sheer silk or similar silk charmeuse can be used under tulle or sheer evening dresses – no added bulk and very lightweight. If you are going for a more affordable option, use Rayon or acetate. Acetate is usually used in almost all store bought cheap evening dresses. Rayon is good as it is breathable. Use stretch lining like stretch satin or tricot material for fitted dresses made of stretch material.
Simple dresses can have cotton linings. Bemberg rayon lining is best for suits; Even Armani uses them. For outerwear you need a waterproof layer – you can get acetate lining which is weatherproof. Inside winter coats fleece, fake fur, Flannel-backed lining or quilted lining are good choices.
Which is a silky shiny fabric used for jacket or suit linings?
This can be satin or acetate. Usually acetate is commonly used as a lining material in commercially available jackets sold in shops. It has a shiny appearance, is lightweight and inexpensive.
Related post : Underlining ; How to sew sleeveless bodice with lining
