Crop top sewing pattern
Both the front and back bodice pattern is marked here. The back pattern is outlined in red colour.
The detailed measurements are as follows
The total length of the top – measure from shoulder tip to where it should end. Add 2″
A-D = 2″ This is the back neck depth.
A-E =3.5″ This is the neck width and is marked only for back neck as the front neck is marked on the facing piece.
A-F = 1/2 of measure from shoulder tip to the other shoulder tip ; As this is a sleevelss top a little to the inside will look good so take 1/2 inch to the inside from F
G-H = 1/4 of Bust round + 1.5″ = B-P This is the marking for the side for front bodice.
For the back bodice this is marked 1/4 of waist round + 1.5″ from B
To mark the armhole measure around the armhole . Minus 1 inch from this . Mark this measure from A down to G
Mark down I from F ( straight down)
Mark 1″ digonally to J ; I-J = 1″
Mark 1″ inside from I to K; I-K = 1″
Mark L 1″ diagonally from K ; K-L = 1″
Mark the H-J-M as th back armhole line and Mark H-L-M as the front armhole line
To mark the darts
Calculate the measure of bust round – waist round
Take this as Z
if Z is less than 4 inch mark the dart width( S-T) as 1″ ( 1/2″ on either side of the middle dart line S-Q & Q-T)
if Z is more than 4 inch mark the dart width as 2″ ( 1″ on either side of the middle dart line)
if Z is less than 6 inch mark the dart width as 3″ ( 1 1/2″ on either side of the middle dart line)
Measure between your bust apex points . This is the measure between the two darts.To mark this measure on the pattern, divide this by two and mark from B-Q. The darts should be ending 1/2 inch down from the bust apex point
Make paper patterns – cut out back and front patterns separately and mark on folded fabric
How to sew a crop top
Step 1. Cut out the pattern for the front bodice and back bodice, 2 strips of bias tape for binding the armsyce and two bias strip pieces for binding the back necklines.If you are planning to use a lining cut the lining piece as well. I am using the lining as an underlining; the lining pieces will be treated as the main bodice pieces.The darts and the seams and neckline bindings and armsyce bindings will be done together ( it will be treated as the outer fabric)
This is the front bodice.
And this is the back bodice with the neck cut
Step 2 Make facing for the front neckline
To make the facing cut out a piece of fabric of 12″ wide and 12 ” length ; fold this by the center and mark as per the following pattern
Cut out the center ( inside the marking ) and beyond the line 3 inches (around the red line in the above picture) and you will get a facing piece like this one
Keep it face down on the bodice; align the center carefully ; pin in place
Stitch the neckline of the facing and the bodice carefully with a very small seam allowance ( 1/4 inch) ; Clip all along the seam allowance. Understitch the facing piece and the seam allowance together from the back of the bodice.
The neckline will look like this when the facing is turned to the other side
Step 3 Attach zipper to the back with a lapped method
Take a piece of fabric 2.5 inch wide and length 2 inch more than the zipper length . Finish the long edges with a zig zag stitch or a serged finish.
Mark the center line on the fabric piece. Draw a line 1/4 inch to either side of the center line , tapering towards the end point at the bottom. Keep it on the center line of the back bodice. Pin in place. For more details on this zipper applicatin checkout the zipper tutorial here
Stitch along the two lines as in the picture below; cut through the middle line to the end. ( cut to the very end making sure that you are not cutting the stitching lines)
Turn the piece to the back of the bodice. I have not finished the fabric strip here – don’t be lazy like me. Do finish the edges. After a wash or two you will regret that your didnot take the time to do it. I know from experience.
Keep the zipper face down on the back on top of the fabric piece. One side zipper teeth is kept close to the edge and the other side zipper teeth is kept 1/4 inch inside. Pin in place and stitch in place
Stitch the end with a crosswise stitch to secure the end as well; You will get a nice lapped look.
Step 4 Bind the top edges of the back necklines with bias strips. Remember to fold the short edges inside. Keep it on top of the neckline and stitch the edges together. Turn the binding to the back and stitch in place.
Make darts for the front bodice and back bodice
Attach trim . I am stitching a rhinestone trim to the neckline. Checkout the pictures for details. Kept it face down and stitched one edge. Turned it right and then top stitched the other edge to the bodice.
You will have to cut off some or stop the trim 1/2 inch near the shoulder seam. Other wise you maynot be able to stitch the seam together
Step 7 Join the shoulder seam
Step 8 Bind the armsyce with a bias strip.
Step 9 Join the side seams together.
Hem the bottom edge. If the length is more you can cut off a little from the bottom edge. Turn under 1/4 inch and then turn the rest of the extra edge and stitch in place. You can handstitch or machine stitch the hem