Not all zippers are sewn in the same way – and picking the right method can make the difference between a professional-looking finish and a not so good looking garment and seam. Whether you’re closing up the back of a dress, adding a fly-front to trousers, or finishing a simple skirt, the technique you choose depends on your fabric, your garment, and how visible (or invisible) you want that zipper to be.
There are three main ways to insert a zipper: centered, lapped, and invisible ; and exposed zippers.
Centered Zipper
A centered zipper sits with an even row of stitching on either side and works well for casual garments and home décor projects.
Lapped Zipper
A lapped zipper hides the zipper teeth under a fold of fabric and is a classic choice for skirts and dresses with a side or back opening.
Invisible Zipper
An invisible zipper disappears completely into the seam, making it the go-to choice for special-occasion dresses and anywhere you want a clean, seamless look.
Below, we’ll break down when to use each method, then link you to a full step-by-step tutorial for the one that fits your project.
How to choose your Zipper?
Your choice zipper application technique depends on many factors – whether you want the zipper to be seen from outside, the type of garment you are sewing, the type of zipper you have , the placement of the opening etc. For eg. a centered zipper opening is usually not used for side openings. You need a fly zipper opening for the front of pants. If you are particular about zipper not showing outside, then you need an invisible zipper.
Ask yourself these questions :Does the garment pass over hips, bust, or shoulders? Is the fabric stretch or woven? Will the wearer sit, bend, or raise arms?
How long should the zipper be?
The basic rule I use is this : If the garment is fitted, the zipper must open past the widest body point. Otherwise, what is the point?
For skirts
Straight or pencil skirt: Zipper length = hip to waist + 2–3 cm (Usually 7–9 inches / 18–23 cm)
A-line or flared skirt: Shorter zipper is fine because ease comes from flare
For dresses
Back zip dress: From neckline to just below waist or mid-back
Side zip dress: From underarm to hip level
Long gowns / fitted dresses: Longer zipper helps with wearing ease. (Often 12–22 inches / 30–55 cm)
Choose a colour close to your dress. Even if you get a very long zipper do not worry, you can always cut the extra out and then make a zipper stopper stitch. ie mark the length you want your zipper opening to be on the zipper.
Add an inch or two and make a basting stitch or a machine zig zag stitch connecting the two sides of the zipper teeth together. Now you have a zipper stop stitch.
If you don’t do this the zipper will separate before you manage to sew it to the dress. Or you can reattach the zipper stoppers you get with the zipper. Find more tricks on zipper repair here.
Checkout the related posts – 11 varieties of zippers you can use in sewing and the sewing tutorial for invisible zippers.
Where should you place the Zipper?
Back Zipper – On Fitted dresses, Formal wear, ones with clean front design
Side zipper – On skirts, casual dresses
Front zipper – On Jackets, Shift dresses, sports clothing
According to clothes
Pencil skirt: Side or back, hip-length
A-line skirt: Side, short
Fitted dress: Back, long
Loose dress: Short back or side
Gown: Long back or invisible zip
Kurta / kameez: Side or back, medium
Pants: Front fly (separate rules)
How to choose your zipper method
| Zipper method | Where to use |
|---|---|
| Centered Zipper | Cushions, pillow covers, tote bags, casual pouches, home décor, kids’ clothing ; Usually anywhere where there is a seam |
| Lapped Zipper | Skirts, trousers/pants, jeans, casual dresses with a side opening and when you want to put in a zipper where there is no seam |
| Invisible Zipper | Special-occasion dresses, formal wear, fitted garments, back-zip dresses, blouses – anywhere you want the zipper completely hidden |
Zipper foot
This is a life saver when you sew the zipper. In a clinch you can use the regular foot of course. If you haven’t used a zipper foot yet, take it out of your sewing box. You most probably got it free with your sewing machine. This foot is a narrow one like a square spoon, with a notch in the left and right for needle. With this zipper foot you can sew really close to that zipper teeth. With a regular foot there will be a space between the stitching line and the zipper opening which is unbecoming.
Note : Please take care that, even while it is essential that we stitch close to the zipper teeth as possible (which is why we use a zipper foot), you should not sew over the zipper teeth at all. The zipper teeth would not close if you do this.
Go slowly when sewing zipper and make sure that even when you cannot see the zipper or the needle you are feeling with your hands.
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