This is a pattern for a skirt with a yoke and an elasticized back with a zippered opening on one side.
If you dislike making a tailored waistband and want the flexibility of an elasticised waistband all the while looking flat in the front ( No bulk in the waistband in the front) this skirt with the yoke waistband is the one for you.
In this skirt pattern, the yoke looks neat from the outside as well as inside with all the seams neatly tucked inside.It is very easy construction and tucks in all the ugly seams
How to sew the yoke-straight skirt – Steps
Cut out the patterns. You need 2 big pieces of fabric for the yoke ; 2 pieces for the skirt and a 7 inch zipper ( any type would do but an invisible one looks great) and a piece of 1″ or 3/4 inch elastic
A-G =1″ This is marked down from A so that there is a slight curve in the waist.
A-F = 1/4 of waist round + 1.5″
C-D = 1/4 of hip round + 2″
L-M = N-O = 1/4 of hip round + 3″
After you have made the pattern you will have 2 pieces of front yoke pattern and one piece of back yoke and 2 skirt pieces.
Keep the two front yoke pieces right sides together and join the top edge with a 1/4 inch seam allowance
Fold the back yoke fabric piece by the center
Keep the elastic inside and baste in place on one end.
Open the front yoke piece and lay it out flat. Keep the edge of the back yoke inside the front yoke piece and then bring down the other side down over it so that the back piece is Sandwiched inside the front yoke.
Turn the top seam allowance down and stitch together with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.
Turn the pieces right side out. Now both the front yoke and back yoke are joined neatly with the seam allowances inside.
Take the other edge of the back yoke.Keep the other side of the elastic and baste in place near the middle center fold line ( ensure that the elastic is not twisted )
Turn it wrong side out. Keep the zipper face down inside this edge.
Keep the zipper piece inside as in the picture with top edge folded down. Stitch the edges together.Use a zipper foot on your machine so that you can stitch close to the zipper teeth
It will look like this when turned right side out ; One side of the back yke attached to one side of zipper.
Take the other edge of the front yoke with face up. Keep the zipper face down along the edge of the yoke as in the picture below. Turn the top piece of the yoke by the middle fold so that the zipper is sandwiched inside.
Stitch the edge together making sure that the stitching line is close to the zipper teeth( zipper foot is ideal).
Remember to turn under the top edge of the zipper down.
Use the zipper foot or you can open up the zipper teeth and then stitch with your regular feet as well but a zipper teeth sure helps to keep the stitching line close to the zipper teeth.
Turn the yoke piece rightside out and you will have the zipper attached neatly
Trim the bottom edge of the yoke evenly
On the back yoke the elastic is inside the fold of the fabric but not stitched in place.
Stitch the elastic in place by making a stitching just under the elastic (effectively making a casing) ; you will have to stretch the elastic a little bit to get it nicely done without bunched fabric
Make a tube of the skirt pieces by stitching the side edges together ; You have a tube now which has to be attached to the yoke part
Stitch the yoke and the skirt tube together
I have inserted the yoke piece to the skirt pieces so that the right sides of the two pieces are touching and then sew the edges together. The skirt is almost done.
Hem the skirt – You can easily turn under the fabric edge and make a simple hem
I have chosen to add a simple lace trim to the skirt here.
I kept the lace trim face down and top edge up on the skirt 1/2 inch away from the bottom edge
Stitch the trim to the skirt
Turn the top edge of the trim down. Fingerpress.
Now turn to the back and fold the bottom fabric edge twice and stitch in place. Remember to maintain the same distance from the edge when stitching, as this stitching line would be visible from the right side of the skirt
I also attached some sequins – checkout the tutorial for 10 ways to attach the sequins on to the skirt
I chose to use some fabric glue to paste the sequins randomly ( supposed to be a flower). Done.
Related posts : How to sew skirts ; How to sew a skirt waistband with zippered opening; How to sew a straight skirt waistband; Free sewing patterns
Updated on October 17, 2022 by Sarina Tariq
I wanted to make an inverted yoke instead. Do you have any instructions on how to do this?
Do i fold the back yoke piece lengthwise or widthwise? How long should the front and back yoke pieces be? Not the waist measurement, length from waist to hip?
Very helpful good directions
Thanks for the kind comment. Best wishes in your sewing
Love this. I am a beginner and believe this would help me in learning how to sew. Thanks so much for making the difference.