This open draped front jacket is one of the easiest sewing projects you can make. Just two side seams and narrow hemming along the edges.
Fabric you can use to sew this Jacket – Chiffon, Georgette, Lightweight linen, Sateen, Silk, Cotton Lawn, Knits, lightweight denim; any fabric which will drape very well is suitable to sew this one
This jackets needs 3 pattern pieces – 2 fronts and one back.
To make the pattern you need to fold the front portion so that you can mark the extra lapel portion as well which extend from the bodice ( about 10 inch extra).
Front part is two parts- left and right bodice.
Remember to make sure you are mirroring patterns ie you have to have a left pattern and right pattern.
In this article I will cover:
Measurements needed for sewing the jacket pattern
- Bust round
- Shoulder tip to shoulder tip
The height of the jacket is taken as 22 inches; if you are a taller person, measure your desired length and change it accordingly.
You need 2 fabric pieces to mark the front pieces – 23-24 inches in length and width, measuring 12 inches + 1/4 of your bust round.
Take a fabric 23-24 inches long and width equalling 1/2 of your bust round plus 2 inches. This is to be folded by the middle. Mark the dimensions of the pattern given below.
To mark the armhole, follow the diagram below.
Keep fabric folded right sides together and mark. Then cut through the middle after everything is marked.
The back is one piece and hence mark on a folded piece as per the direction below
How to stitch the drapey front jacket
Sewing this waterfall jacket is very easy -it involves just 3 steps
Hem the bottom edge of the front pieces and back pieces. Make a narrow hem. To get a narrow hem, fold the fabric edge 1/4 inch inside. Stitch along very close to the fold. Trim whatever is extra. Fold again and stitch. You will get a very narrow hem.
Step 2 –Finish the front edge of the front pieces, back neckline, and armholes.
Make a narrow hem along the front fabric edge of the front pieces. Turn under the armhole edges also and finish neatly. Finish the back neckline edge.
Step 3- Join the front pieces to the back at the shoulder and sides
Join the side seams -Joining the front pieces to the back piece. Start joining from the hem ( so that you can keep it aligned / level).
I finished the seams with a mock french finish so that the edges will be neat inside. Mock french seam finish is nothing but seam allowances turned inside and stitched.
You can zig-zag stitch or use the overlocker or serger. Checkout the post on different ways to do seams for more options