Front & Back Bodice Pattern for the Flared sleeve Top
In this pattern, the front and back bodices are cut the same way. If you want the front armhole a little deeper you can follow the tutorial here for the basic bodice pattern. The neckline is not cut but finished with the facing later.
Fold two pieces of fabric of length 33inches by the center and mark the following dimensions.
A-C = 32″
A-B = 3 1/2″
A-G = 8 1/4″
H-J = A-G
H-I = 3/4″
D-E = 3″ (OR 4″)
A-H = 1/2 of shoulder point to shoulder point + 1/4″
G-F = 1/4 of Bust round + 3/4″
E-L = 1/4 of Hip round + 2 “
K-J = 1/2 of F-J
Cut the length of the front bodice a little differently by raising the hemline by 2 inches along the line L-E. This will make the front bodice a little shorter.
Step 2 Finish the necklines of back and front bodices
Cut the neckline facings
For the back neckline
The front neckline is a close neckline if you want a more wider one increase the depth from 4″ to 5″ or more.
For the front neckline
Keep the facing right side down on the bodice kept right side up for the back neckline. For the back neckline, a small keyhole is given to make an opening there and to attach a button.
After you cut out the top portion remember that you have to clip all along the sea allowance
I have decided to use the facing as a yoke for the front neckline; for that Keep the facing right side down on the bodice kept wrong side up for the front neckline
Finish the edge of the facing with a serger or zig zag stitch or fold the edge and make whipping stitches
I have done some embroidery flowers along the yoke( the facing) as well as the hem of the sleeves.
Step 3 Cut the short sleeves
For the flared sleeve here, the sleeve is cut as 2 portions. For a more detailed post on sleeve drafting check out How to draft a sleeve
A-B = Take the measure around your arm at 7 1/2 ” down from your shoulder tip. Add 1″
Step 4 Cut the flared sleeve portion. Cut 2
A-B is the same as taken above for short sleeve
Step 5 Finish the bodices
Join the shoulder seams of the bodices. Hem the bottom edge of the bodice. Make very narrow hem (baby hem) if you are using thin fabrics or polyester fabrics as the hem is a little curvy the regular hem is difficult to manage.
Step 6 Join the sleeves
Join the sleeves to the bodice on both sides
Step 7 Join the side seams
Start joining from the sleeve hem to the hem of the bodice.The main sewing of the top is over.
Step 8 Closure for the back
Attach a small button and a thread loop to the back neckline