Sleeves are such an important part of clothes as it is one of the first thing you see in a garment. They should fit properly and be comfortable to wear as well. Sleeve styles vary greatly with time and fashion.
Fashions of sleeves come and go. One moment a particular sleeve may be in fashion but then they disappear completely for decades to resurface later and become a rage again. I remember wearing loose puff sleeves in my teenage years as it was in fashion; now I cannot imagine wearing them, one because it absolutely kills my bodyshape and two they are luckily not in fashion.
The two main categories of sleeves are Set in sleeves and one piece sleeves. Then there are Ragalan sleeves which joins the bodice with a slightly curved seam. The set in sleeve refers to those sleeves which are joined onto the curved armscye. They join the side seams of the bodice at the underarm. The one piece sleeves are part of the bodice; Kimono sleeves, Dolman / Magyar sleeves and the batwing sleeves belong to this category.
The different types of sleeves are as follows;
Table of Contents
1 Normal sleeve
This is a sleeve which is set into the armscye with the sleeve head curved to adjust to the roundness of the shoulder.
2 Raglan sleeves
This is a sleeve joined to the bodice with a diagonal seam running from the underarm front and back in to the neckline. Checkout the tutorial to draft a raglan sleeved top and the peasant dress pattern tutorial which has gathered raglan sleeves
3 Cap sleeves
This is a sleeve which just about covers the top of the arm.It is a short sleeve.
4 Cap sleeves ( extended)
This sleeve is a cap sleeve with a small extension from the shoulder. Checkout this tunic pattern with extended sleeves
5 Bracelet sleeves ( Three fourth sleeve)
This sleeve has a length between elbow and the wrist. The whole idea is that when you wear this sleeve you can see your bracelet. From the elbow it measures about 4 inches.
6 Lantern sleeves
This is a long sleeve with two sections. The top portion of this sleeve flares from the sleeve head towards the wrist.The bottom part flares from a fitting wrist to meet the flare from the top. The two parts are joined by a seam which maintains its flared lantern shape. A long lantern sleeve and short lantern sleeve can be made.
7 Man’s shirt sleeve with cuff
This sleeve has two pleats at the buttoned cuff and a placket opening.
8 Leg of mutton sleeves
This is a full gathered sleeve head which tapers to fit towards the wrist giving it the appearance of a leg of mutton.
9 Juliet Sleeve
This is similar to the leg of mutton sleeve. Difference being that this sleeve has two parts to it. The top part at the sleeve head is very full . This is gathered and joined to a fitted sleeve part in the lower arm.
10 Long Bell sleeves
The Sleeve has a full flare at the hem giving it a bell shape.This tutorial for a flared dress pattern has instructions to make bell sleeves
11 Bell sleeve
This is a shorter version of the Long bell sleeve, mostly shorter than elbow.
12 Frill Sleeve / Flute sleeves
This sleeve is fitted till the elbow and from there a frill is attached. The frill can be Umbrella frill in which a skirt is cut as we do for umbrella skirts , or Flared frill which has lesser flare or pleated frill. Checkout the pattern for boxy top for sewing this kind of sleeves
13 Pagoda sleeve
This is sleeve which is fitted on the upper arm and has tiered frills on the lower part of the arm to the wrist. Usually there are three tiers
14 Bishop sleeve
This is a sleeve with a fitted upper part and a flared lower part. The flares are gathered at the wrist by a cuff.
15 Peasant sleeve
This is a gathered ragalan sleeve which is gathered at the neck and hem with drawstring or elastic.
16 Square armhole sleeve
The armhole is designed not curved but angular, mostly square shaped. This is an interesting design element.
17 Dolman/ Magyar sleeve
This is a one piece sleeve which is an extension of the bodice. There will be no seam between bodice and the sleeve, as it is cut as one.Sometimes a gusset is added to the underarm for ease.
18 Padded shouldered sleeve
In this case the sleeve has a shoulder pad and is made extra wide to accommodate this
19 Petal sleeve ( lapped sleeve ) Tulip sleeve
This sleeve is joined at the top two edges overlapping. There will be no underarm seam for this sleeve
20 Marmaluke or Virago sleeve
This is a sleeve which is long and full and is divided into five full sections . The parts are gathered at intersections fitting the arm.
21 Angel sleeves / Dalmation sleeves
This is a flared sleeve with its ends extending into long points down the sides.
22 Butterfly sleeve
This sleeve has a puff at the top and is loose near the hem. It doesnot have a cuff like the normal puffed sleeves.
23 Bag sleeve
A long and very full sleeve that is gathered into the cuff at the wrist.
24 Draped sleeves
Extra fullness is given at the top part of the sleeve whereas the under arm portion of the sleeve remains fitted.A drapey effect is created by the fullness at the top, which is sometimes drawn up with elastic.
25 Puff sleeves
A full sleeve which may be long or short which is gathered at the top and or hem.A puff look is given as a result of the gathers. There are many kinds of puff sleeves – gathered at the armhole alone but fitting at the sleeve round, fitting at the armhole but gathered at the sleeve round , both gathered and puffed together; This sleeves are usually gathered at the sleeve round with a sleeve band ( cuff) or elastic ribbon , or elastic enclosed casing, drawstrings.
26 Drawstring puff sleeve
This is a puff sleeve which is gathered using a drawstring or a cuff with the gathered hem forming a sort of frill.
27 Epaulet sleeve
Sleeve with a strap on the shoulder to carry cape.
28 Balloon sleeve
A very sfull shrt sleeve which is padded to give the look of a balloon
29 Batwing sleeve
This is a cut in one piece sleeve which narrows to fit towards the wrist.
30 Circle sleeve / Flutter sleeves
This is a sleeve which looks like a circle when it is cut. This is a sleeve which has lots of flare.
31 Wing Ruffle sleeve
This is sleeve which is very short but full and is gathered to form ruffles.
32 Kimono sleeves
This is a long one piece sleeve that is an extension of the bodice and extends to the wrist.Checkout the post on drafting kimono sleeves for more details
33 Over sleeve
This consists of two sleeves one on top of the other in layering effect.
34 Hanging sleeve
This is a very long sleeve that is open down the seam and hangs down
35 Elbow patched sleeve
This has a patch on the elbow to protect the garment from wear and tear.
36 Slashed sleeve
This sleeve has slashes on it revealing other fabric underneath, usually of a contrasting colour.
37 Strapped or banded sleeve
There will be a narrow strip of fabric down the sleeves.
38 Tailored sleeve
This is a two piece sleeve with seams down the front and back and not underarm like the normal sleeves. This is done so that it could be shaped
39 Cape sleeves
This sleeves has a lot of flare at the hem and sometimes it is cut as a circle to get the most flare.
40 Mahoitres Sleeve
This sleeve is padded and is shaped like a bag
41 Cold shouldered sleeve
This is an offshoulder style sleeve. The sleeve hangs on to the bodice from the sides rather than from the top of the armsyce leaving a hole exposing the shoulders. Checkout the tutorial to sew cold shouldered sleeve here.