This is a pattern for a flared dress with long bell sleeves. The dress has a false placket with a v neck opening
To make the pattern you can mark directly on fabric or make pattern on paper. Both the front and back patterns are described in the diagram. The front neckline and armhole line are indicated by the RED lines.
Fold the fabric by half crosswise and then by the center lengthwise. This will give a fold on top and on one side (A-B) Mark on the top surface. I make all the marks on the top and then cut out the back pattern. Remove the back pattern from the inside and then cut the front pattern on the remaining cloth with the markings. You can make individual patterns for the front and back as well to avoid any confusion especially if you are making clothes for the first time. In which case I would not recommend this top, but this easy tunic pattern or this boho top pattern.
You can give waist definition if you want to by taking the measure from shoulder to waist and giving the measure of 1/4 waist + 2″ there or leave it loose as is
Step 1 Cut out the bodice pieces.
A -B = Length needed +1.5″ This is the total length of the dress. You can shorten it to top length as well or go for the full length or knee length
A-L = Neck width (Ref.Table given below) ; you can also mark 3.5 ” or 4″
A-E = Armhole depth ( ref.table given at the end of the post.) mark this Measure- this is your bust line. On this line mark E-D
E-D = 1/4 of bust round + 1.5″ . Take the whole measure around the bust and then divide by 4. Add 1.5″.
B-C = 18 -20″ – This is the flair of the top.An 18 inch flair is possible with a 36″ wide cloth. If you have wider cloth increase flair.
A-F = 1/2 of shoulder to shoulder measure + 1/4″ . Measure from one shoulder tip to the other. Divide by 2 and add 1/4 inch
From F come down to G ; FG = 1″. Join to L. This is your shoulder line.
From L come down straight to meet the bust line at H. Mark diagonally 1″ to I. Mark in a curve to G from to D passing through I. This is the back arm line ; H-I = 1″
To mark the front armhole line move 1″ from H to J; Mark H-J = 1″. Go diagonal from J to K ; J-K = 1″
Mark this line in a curve D- G touching K. This is the front armhole line
MArk the necklines
From A mark down on line A-B ; A-M = 2″
From L mark 5 inch to N on line A-B ; L-N = 5″. Mark in a soft curve for the front neckline.
Cut out the front and back pattern ; I cut the back pattern first on both the fabric pieces and then removed one of them and then on the remaining piece cut through the front neck and armhole line.
Step 2. Front neckline for false placket
The front opening for the placket has to cut now. Follow the pattern given below for the cut.
Cut along a-b-c ; a-b will give the small v neck opening and b-c the placket(false placket really)
Opened up the front bodice will look like this
Step 3. Make the front placket
Take two pieces of bias strips – 1.5 inch wide and 11 inches long
Keep the two strips right sides together and stitch down the center
Press the strips to either side of the stitching like this so that raw edges are facing to the either side
Turn the bodice wrong side up. Keep the placket piece bottom edge along the placket opening. Pin in place . Stitch with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. ( rightside of the placket edge and wrong side of the bodice are together. ) Remember that out of the 4 edges only one edge is stitched here – the one in the bottom on either side.
Now turn to the right side and pin the other corresponding edge ( edge at the bottom on the other side) to the other front center opening – here also rightside of the placket edge and wrong side of the bodice are together. – Stitching like this will ensure that no raw edge of placket is exposed on the backside of the bodice
You will have to use your commonsense and ensure that you will have the other two edge free to be top stitched from the top of the bodice. Donot forget to press in place at all times so that you are accurate – unlike mine which is crumpled like a piece of used handkerchief and the ends looking like a curled and twisted bittergourd
Bring the bodice right side up. You have the placket stitched to the back with two edges free which is to be stitched to the front.
Now on to stitching it to the front. This requires a little manipulation as the placket is narrow and you have to get crisp edges. Keeping a piece of interfacing strip 1/2 inch wide inside will give you this crispiness and neat edges
Turn under the edges and pin in place. I have folded the bottom edge of the placket a little triangular in shape
Top stitch in place
Step 4 Join the shoulders of the front and back bodice
Step 5 Neckbinding
Keep a strip of bias tape along the neckline edge. Remember to fold the edges to the inside at the start and at the ending. Stitch with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Turn the neck binding to the inside ; stitch in place with a hand sewing needle and little whip stitches.
The neck is ready
Step 6 Cut the sleeves
Cut out the sleeve as per the pattern given below.
Keep 2 fabric pieces (for the sleeves) on fold rightsides together and mark ( so that you get mirror pieces for right and left sleeve) . Checkout this post on sleeves for more details.
A-B = shoulder to wrist + 1.5″ ; This is the total length of the sleeve
F-E = Armhole depth + 1/2″ ; (Ref. Table given below for the armhole depth according to bust round)
G= Mid point of F-E
Divide the line G-H into three equal parts. Mark the points a & b . a is for the front sleeve line and b is for the back sleeve line. Cut the back line first open up and then cut the front armline.
C-I = Measure around elbow + 1.5″
B-J = E-F
J-D = 4″ ; The sleeve bottom edge is about 4 inches more than the upper width of the sleeve. This will give tht trailing effect
Keep the sleeve right side down on the bodice shoulder seam aligned with the center of the sleeves and stitch in place. Make double stitching lines for safety. finish the edges. Press the sleeve seam from the inside.
Stitch the sleeve hem ( a turned under hem would do)
Step 7 Join the side seams and do the hem
Join the side seams from sleeves to the bottom edge with a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Do the bottom hem of the dress. I did a narrow hem. A faced hem with bias strip also works. A wide turn under edge may be possible only with the facing because the edge is curved.
|Bust Measurement||Neck width ( inches)||Neck depth (inches)|
|26||2 1/4||4 1/2|
|30||2 1/2||5 1/2|
|34||2 3/4||6 1/2|
|Bust measurement inches||Armhole depth|