Linen fabric and cotton fabric are two of the most popular dressmaking and upholstery-making fabrics in the whole world. Some people even think of linen as a cotton material.
We inevitably draw comparisons between them. Both of them are made from plant fibers and have lots of similar features which are attractive; they also share some disadvantages too. But despite all these similarities, they are very distinct from each other – not only in looks but in a lot of qualities that matter.
So which is better? Linen or Cotton – a Fabric Comparison
This can be answered only if you know all the factors that matter. In looks I love linen – it has an understated elegance as a dress material which is not there in ordinary cotton. But there are many superior varieties of cotton material – so you may get some of them to match linen in looks like an egyptian cotton.
| Textile Properties | 100% Cotton | 100% Linen |
| Fiber source | Seed hairs of the cotton plant’s (Gossypium) bolls | Stem of flax plant (Linum usitatissimum). |
| Breathability | Highly breathable, suitable for warm weather | Excellent breathability; Suitable for hot weather |
| Texture | Different textures for different varieties of cotton; Coarse duck cloth to very soft muslins. | Linen may seem coarse at first, but becomes more soft and supple with use. |
| Weave | Irregular weave; visible and varied lines in the weave | Very regular, mechanical-looking weave; straight and tidy lines. processed appearance |
| Weight | Linen fibers are generally thicker than cotton fibers. The overall weight of linen fabric can vary significantly based on the weave and thread count. | Available in different weigths. Canvas, duck and denim are heavy weight. Voile, batiste and cotton lawn are very lightweight. |
| Durability | Durable and can withstand frequent washing | Durable but may be prone to abrasion |
| Absorbency | Moisture wicking | Moisture wicking |
| Cost | Inexpensive when compared to linen | Expensive |
| Fabric Maintenance | Easy to care | Wrinkles a lot; difficult to remove wrinkles. Easy care. Linen blends which do not wrinkle much are available. |
| Shrinkage | Will shrink in first wash; Use cold water | Will shrink more than cotton; Use cold water |
| Stretch | No stretch lengthwise; Some stretch crosswise | Less stretch than cotton |
Origin story of the fabrics
Goes without saying that the sources of both fabrics are different. But both are natural fiber textiles.
Linen is a natural fiber obtained from the stalks of the flax plant. Fibers are extracted from the stalks and undergo a long process of retting, scutching, heckling, spinning, and weaving.
Compared to this, the manufacturing process of cotton fabric from fibers taken from the seed pod of the cotton plant is easier. Though the process of manufacturing cotton is similar, it is not as long-winded as that of making linen.
I suppose this is the reason why cotton overtook linen as the fabric of choice of ancient men and women in Egypt and Greece. At first, everyone wore linen, but once cotton was discovered, the less laborious production process attracted all to cotton. Henceforth all clothing materials were made of cotton.
Let us see where Linen stands when compared with cotton in features that really matter to a customer who is going to buy any one of these fabrics as a bed sheet or a dressmaking fabric or upholstery material – strength, durability, breathability, comfort and looks.
Comparison of Linen and Cotton
Thread count
Usually linen fabrics have a lower thread count than similar cotton fabrics.
This is because linen fibers are slightly bigger than cotton fibers. This results in the lower thread count (number of yarns per inch of fabric) for linen.
But as thread count does not define quality fully, this cannot be the sole criteria for selecting either of them. A lower thread count fine linen may be superior to a higher thread count cotton.
Strength and durability
In this matter of strength and durability, linen scores big. It can be called one of the strongest natural fibers.
Linen survived intact inside the pyramids of Egypt for thousands of years. The most famous Shroud of Turin is a linen cloth.
So when comparing, though both cotton and linen are durable, linen is more durable than cotton.
Both linen and cotton can withstand high temperatures.
Hand of the fabric and softness
The cotton fiber is fluffy and soft whereas linen is firm and smooth. Linen can become very soft but in the long run only.
Linen fabric is a little crisp when you buy it, but it becomes softer with each wash. After you wash and wear it a number of times it becomes the most comfortable fabric of all. If you can wait this long, linen is best. If not, go for cotton.
There are many kinds of cotton. Combed cotton yarns are long soft fibers which are carded and combed. These properties define the fabrics made with them as well.
Some cotton can be so soft that it will pass through a small ring easily whereas some cotton fabrics are so rough and coarse that you make boat sails with it. Cotton made from Pima and Egyptian varieties of cotton fibers makes the best quality cotton – they are the most expensive.
Sustainability
The linen and cotton fabrics are made of natural fibers; Natural fibers are renewable resources. Both are naturally eco-friendly fabrics.
Breathability
The linen and cotton are both breathable fabrics.
However, the breathability of cotton depends on its weave as the thicker and closer the weave, the more difficult it is to breathe.
Whereas with linen it is not a problem as the fibers are hollow.
Moisture Absorbency
The cotton and linen are highly absorbent.
But Cotton is slightly more absorbent than linen as it can hold more than 25% of its weight in water whereas for linen it is 20%.
But Linen fibers become stronger when wet.
Moisture Retention
The linen has a better water-wicking property than cotton.
Compared to cotton, linen absorbs water from the skin and dries quickly; ie. Linen does not hold on to the water as cotton will. This results in the cotton fabric being uncomfortable to wear (read soggy) if you are exercising or doing exertion where you will sweat profusely or get wet in the rain.
This is one of the reasons why linen is a favorite fabric in countries with very hot climate.
Maintenance
Both cotton and linen wrinkle easily, but linen wrinkles more than cotton.
Some even find the wrinkles attractive and elegant. Not so much for cotton – it just looks shabby.
Linen does not pill or create lint. Some cotton may.
The cotton can be dyed easily and is available in a multitude of colors. The linen on the other hand comes in limited colors.
Elasticity
Cotton is more flexible than linen.
Cost-effectiveness
Price-wise linen is more expensive than cotton as the manufacturing process of linen is more complex than cotton
Variety
There are more than 100 varieties of cotton fabric. Not so much for linen, but linen is also available in many types.
Related posts :Different names for Linen materials
A number of the fabrics are made with either of these fibers. For eg. Damask is made in linen as well as cotton; Sailcloth is also made in both linen and cotton fibers.
Both are superior in their own ways – I am still confused. If some one offered me a linen dressmaterial I would defintely take it over cotton, though. What about you?
Which is better for painting -Linen or cotton?
For painting linen canvas is considered superior as linen doesn’t sag like cotton canvas; Linen is ideal for long-lasting artworksas it lasts forever.
On cotton, the Paint tends to soak in more; blending is good but detail application can be challenging. The grain will be more visible so it doesnot have the smooth fine surface needed for very detailed painting. Even with gesso the grain is visible on cotton canvases.
So linen is preferred by portrait artists for painting fine details due to this smoother texture. Glued linen canvas (Fine linen with glue applied) is very smooth and superior – this is far better than unprimed linen or gessoed cotton. But linen is more expensive than cotton.
The raw linen (unprimed) has a darker look compared to cotton. Cotton looks whiter.
Out of linen and cotton which is best for embroidery?
Both linen and cotton can be a good base for your beautiful embroidery work. Linen has a more rustic and elegant look. But if you are looking for a more consistent, uniform and even texture on your surface for embroidery, cotton is a better choice. And cotton is readily available in different price points.
Eco-friendliness of Linen and cotton textiles – a comparison
Linen material is made from the fibers of the flax plant. It’s renowned for its durability and luxurious feel and look of elegance. If I have a choice I will buy a lot of linen fabric for its comfort.
But how does it score on sustainability?
Better than cotton, it seems.
| Attributes | Score of linen vs cotton |
|---|---|
| Water Usage | Flax plant requires far less water than cotton plant. According to the European Confederation of Linen and Hemp (CELC), flax cultivation uses no irrigation, relying only on rainwater. Zero irrigation needs is the most remarkable thing about linen production. Reference Cotton production is a water-intensive process, requiring an average of 7,000 to 29,000 liters of water to produce one kilogram of cotton fiber. Diversion of water and its pollution by cotton growing is mentioned in this article on worldwildlife.org. Even organic cotton production uses a lot of water resources. |
| Pesticides and Chemicals | Flax plants need fewer pesticides and fertilizers compared to cotton, reducing environmental pollution. Cotton farming uses a high amount of pesticides and fertilizers. Reference |
| Biodegradability | Linen is highly biodegradable and can decompose in a few weeks when untreated. Same with cotton. So both are winners here. |
| Energy consumption in production process | The process of separating flax fibers can be energy-intensive. But the overall environmental footprint of flax cultivation is generally lower compared to cotton. Carbon emissions from the cotton producing sector amounts to around 220 million metric tons annually; Reference; this is comparatively lower for linen as per this report. |
| Land usage | Cotton requires more land compared to flax, contributing to habitat loss and soil degradation. Even organic cotton cultivation uses a lot of land and related resources. |
| Impact of use by consumers | When comparing the environmental impact, it is important to note that ‘use by consumers’ accounts for a lot of energy consumption in the lifecycle of a garment from “cradle-to-gate” as mentioned in this website. Linen garments may require more frequent ironing and special care (like dry cleaning) consuming more energy than cotton. Cotton is more easy to maintain. |
So, Which is Greener?
Linen appears to have a better edge than cotton about its environmental impact. Its lower water and chemical requirements, makes it a more sustainable choice. If you are really considering these factors when purchasing.
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Author: Sarina Tariq
