You are doomed if you do, and you are doomed if you do not. I am talking about stabilizing fabric for embroidery, sewing and other crafts.
Machine Embroidery is easy and fun – except for the stabilizing part, because the wrong choice can ruin your work.
Stabilizers do a lot of good, actually, when chosen right. For one, it gives the fabric the strength and ability to bear the weight of the embroidery work and such.
It gives the needed stiffness that is not there in unstable thin fabrics or slippery fabrics like chiffon and silks.
Without a backing, these fabrics will disappear into the hole in your sewing machine and be ruined forever. They also facilitate the movement of heavy fabric on the sewing machine bed.
The use of backing lessens the stress of the embroidery on the fabric. It prevents the inevitable sagging of delicate and unstable fabric – no distortion even after extensive work, puckering, or tearing of the material. It does act as a barrier preventing problems to the fabric during the stitching process.
Some knits will stretch out of shape if the stabilizer is not there. The backing can protect the garment /fabric through subsequent washings, even after the embroidery process.
If you use thick heavyweight fabrics, you mostly do not need backing. Still, in the case of most other fabrics, it is better to use some backing when doing machine embroidery and even for some intense hand embroidery. They are also used when making quilts, sewing collars, pockets, hems, etc. Some are used as reinforcement on seams of delicate fabrics like silk.
Different kinds of Stabilizers
In this article I will cover:
- Different kinds of Stabilizers
- 1. Fusible Stabilizer
- 2. Sew in Tear away stabilizer
- 3. Sew-in Cut-away stabilizers
- 4. Sew-in Water-soluble backing /Wash away stabilizer
- 5. Fabric as a stabilizer
- 6. Dimensional backing
- 7. Plastic films
- 8. Paper
- 9. Sticky-backed stabilizers
- 10. Topping stabilizers
- Using the stabilizers
1. Fusible Stabilizer
This kind of backing is fused to the back of the fabric using heat. These stabilizers come in different fabric weights, and a suitable one should be chosen for the right effect.
But you will have a problem if you want to remove it later – that is one disadvantage.
And a matching weight between the stabilizer and fabric is necessary. Otherwise, there is a chance of bubbling. A sheer weight fusible is used on delicate fabric to give good stability to the thin fabric when you sew or do embroidery. For heavy-weight fabric, a similar stabilizer is used.
Some will have two sides adhesive – you can use it to fuse fabric together – it is useful in applique work and for sewing hems. It is also useful when repairing holes in the fabric. Some will have a glossy finish on the other side, and some will have a matt finish.
2. Sew in Tear away stabilizer
Sew-in stabilizers are not fused to the fabric – they are kept under the fabric and temporarily fused with adhesive spray. Sew-in stabilizers are available in many weights. Lightweight, medium weight and heavyweights are used depending on your fabric. Some ultra-firm stabilizers can even make the fabric stand stiff.
Tear away (sew-in) is a stabilizer that can be torn away completely or partially after the work is done. It is a favorite to use on woven fabrics and fabrics that do not stretch – it is easy to use.
But it is not much suited for thin, unstable fabrics, ones that stretch, or ones with open/loose weave.
The best tear-away stabilizer for hoopless embroidery is one that attaches to the fabric when it is moistened with water. This way, it does not have the needle clogging problem with fusible backings and stays intact under the fabric as you embroider.
One problem with this stabilizer is that it can cause distortion when you tear it off. If you get a good quality tear away, it will tear or wash away cleanly and completely without ruining the stitches or fabric.
3. Sew-in Cut-away stabilizers
This is a more stable backing than tear-away stabilizers and hence the most preferred. After the work is done, you will cut it away from the back, leaving a small allowance all around the design.
It is usually used on stretchy fabrics like knits (for t-shirt embroidery) and nonwoven fabrics, open weave/loose weave fabric, lightweight fabrics, leather, and vinyl, or for complex designs giving them stability. You can use cutaways on delicate fabrics like thin silk and satin.
It is also preferred over tear-away, where you want continued protection even after the embroidery is done.
On T-shirts, a soft cut-away stabilizer is used, and it is hooped along with the stabilizer for embroidery. Sweatshirt-type knits need a thicker cut-away stabilizer than t-shirt knits. For fleece, you will need to use a cut-away stabilizer and a topping stabilizer.
For embroidering on Denim, a medium to heavy cut-away is used. A medium weight cut away is the most popularly used one for most others.
Mesh cut-away stabilizer can be used on clothes, especially kids’ clothes, as it is the least irritating on the skin.
4. Sew-in Water-soluble backing /Wash away stabilizer
As the name suggests, this is soluble in water – this quality is at once a positive and negative thing. As you wash your item, the stabilizer washes away, leaving a potentially unstable fabric. But when you do not want any stabilizer to remain, this is the one to use as backing.
When you use this, the work looks neat. It is especially good with sheer fabrics like organza, open-weave fabrics, net, and tulle. It is used when making lace, buttonholes, edge work, shadow work, heirloom work, and applique.
After the work is done, the stabilizer is washed away, and the sheer fabric remains intact. The hot water soluble nonwoven backing material gets dissolved in plain hot water – you just have to keep it soaked in hot water for some time, as the brand prescribes.
It can also be used on top of the fabric on fabrics that cannot be properly marked like terrycloth. After the embroidery is done, the stabilizer is washed away. For this to work, first, draw the design onto the stabilizer. Keep the stabilizer on top of the fabric, fit the hoop and do the work. Afterward, soak the stabilizer in cold or warm water to remove it.
5. Fabric as a stabilizer
You can use a woven fabric (pre-washed) like muslin as your backing. It is especially good if you want to avoid the stiffness of the other stabilizers. Organdy and crisp lawn are other fabrics usually used as backing for embroidery.
Buckram is a coarse and stiff woven fabric that can be used as a stabilizer. Nylon gauze /polyester fabric is also used as a backing. Whatever you use, ensure that it does not have any stretch.
6. Dimensional backing
Fleece or a commercially available puff backing is used when you need a backing that will give some padding, a good dimension, and even bulk. Fleece is usually used in quilting and for making handbags. Fleece is available in different weights and also as sew-in and fusible.
7. Plastic films
You can use thin plastic sheets underneath the work. Dry cleaner Plastic bags are also used as backing. They are free and available.
Many people use simple paper for their work for stability – very inexpensive. But more effective than the ones you buy. You cannot hoop paper.
Paper is used as a convenient backing that helps the fabric move smoothly on materials that have trouble moving.
9. Sticky-backed stabilizers
This stabilizer has a paper cover on its adhesive side. This stabilizer could be cut away, tear away or wash away. This is primarily used when you cannot hoop the fabric – it could be a small one or just cannot be hooped like a shirt collar or will leave marks if hooped.
The stabilizer is hooped, the paper backing is removed, and then the fabric is kept on it for embroidery.
10. Topping stabilizers
This kind of stabilizer is kept on top of the fabric with texture. It is used when working with special fabrics like ones with a nap, piled fabric, and fabric with uneven weave, which will take in stitches and make them look unattractive.
Fake fur, terry cloth, velvet, corduroy, and fleece – Topping stabilizers are used for these materials.
Some types of toppings dissolve in water and can easily be removed once the work is finished. Water soluble topping dissolves away, giving a clean appearance to your work. They can be used to make lace. Some others dissolve with heat – best used with un-washable material. SSome use Tulle Fabric as a topping.
Solvy is a very popularly used (brand) water-soluble plastic film used as a topping stabilizer. It is used for embroidering on knitwear and terrycloth. Later after the work is done a light misting of warm water will dissolve SOLVY leaving the work neat and clean and not sunk in.
Using the stabilizers
The 3 main considerations in choosing stabilizers are – the kind of fabric you are using (its structure and stability), the effect you want and the stitch density. Other factors like color, stitch length, stitch speed, size of the embroidery and stability of the design are all important.
Buy the appropriate non-shrinkable non stretchable stabilizer. Get dense stabilizer for dense fabrics (Thickness is not the same as denseness in these materials)
For thin fabrics, a lightweight stabilizer is used. A thicker, denser stabilizer is used as backing if the stitch density is more (stitches in the design). Another main consideration is how it will feel against the skin. For kid’s clothing, a soft nonirritating flame retardant one is preferred.
Before using it on your actual work, please test the stabilizer on your fabric and the stitching with your sewing machine. This way, you will know whether the backing is sufficient for your chosen fabric, particular stitching, sewing machine tension, etc., or worse, will damage the fabric.
You need enough stabilizer to fit the hoop you are using. Cut the backing slightly larger than the hoop you are using and place it underneath the area of the garment you are working on. Hoop the fabric and the backing material ( treat them as one ; if needed use an adhesive spray to keep them together).