This is a pattern to sew a lined waist length Vest with double welt pocket on either side. You can make this vest in less than 2.25 meters of cloth, lining included.
Step 1 Pattern
Cut out the pattern pieces according to the pattern below. It is better to mark on a paper first and then cut on fabric. This is especially because the front panels are made based on the back pattern. So cut the paper pattern for the back bodice first, then make the front panel patterns on paper again , and then cut from the fabric
You need to measure the Bust round and also around the place where you want the vest to end. You can either make it shaped or straight down from the bustline.
A – B = 19 ” This is the length of the vest I have taken. You can increase this or decrease this according to the length you want for the vest.
A-D =3″ This is the neck width.
A-C = 2″. This is the backneck depth.
D-E= 1 3/4″ . This is the shoulder seam
E-F = 3/4″. This is given for the shoulder slope.
A-G = 7 1/2″ Make a line 7 1/2 inch from the top edge. This is the bust line
K-J = 1/4 of bust round + 1 1/2″ ; Measure this on the line K-J
Mark 7 1/4 inch on the top edge. From there mark down to the bust line. They meet at H.
H-I = 1″; From H mark 1″ diagonally to I
Mark the armhole in a curve touching J-I-F
L-B = 1/4 of waist round + 1 1/2″. If you donot want shaping at the waist but a loose waistline you can mark straight down from the bustline
For the front bodice panels
Keep the back pattern on a larger piece of paper ( because the front pattern is about 3.5 inches longer and 1/2 inch wider. )
Mark the extra on the paper and cut out. Keep the front pattern on a folded fabric and cut the pattern; even though the front panel can be cut individually using the fold fabric, this way is better so that you get mirrored pieces.
But If you are not spatially challenged like me and never make the mistake of cutting two similar peces instead of mirrored pieces for front lapels, go ahead and cut individually
The differences between the back and front are that the center has 1/2 inch extra as well as the bottom edge is 3.5 inches longer as in the pattern below. Then the armhole is drawn to the inside as in the pattern. The blue line denotes the front pattern ( & Red the back pattern)
Ofcourse I practise all the easy ways and never follow the rules and marked directly on the fabric – in which case donot frget about the extra 1/2 inch on the center
Step 2 Make the welt pockets
Decide on the placement of the pockets on the front panel. You can place it horizontally or diagonally. Mark the placement as a single line on the right side of the front panels of the vest.
For women’s vest the pockets are usually 6 inches width. Checkout the post on making welt pockets for more details
Take a piece of fabric of width 3 inches and 8 inches for the welt fabric. Take a medium fabric which will retain the shape when folded for making the welt pockets. Mark a pocket opening of 6 inch length and 1/2 inch width on the back side of the welt piece
Keep the welt piece wrong side up on the pocket marking of the front piece, right side up. I have decided to place this a little diagonally on the front panels some 2 inch from the center edge . Stitch along the horizontal lines you have marked ( back stitch at the start and end) – DONOT stitch the short sides of the box.
Cut open the middle line and the diagonal markings
Take the welt piece through the hole to the back
On the back fold the welt piece so that two lips are formed. Pin in place. Do finish the edges of the welt piece before stitching or it will look as horrible as mine does
Turn the pocket so that the side seam allowance is exposed
Stitch it together with the small triangular piece you have cut earlier on the garment on either side of the pocket
Make such pocket on the other front panel as well
Step 3 Stitch the lining
Keep the lining piece on the back piece, right sides together. Stitch along the neckline, bottom edge and armholes. Leave the shoulder and side seam unstitched.
Clip the seam allowance every 1 – 2 inches for smooth turning. Turn the back bodice right side out through one of the side seam. Top stitch the neckline, armhole and the hem, ensuring that the lining is neatly rolled to the inside and not visible outside. Try pressing first and then stitching for best results.
Do this for the front panels as well
Remember to clip the corners and seam allowance.
Stitch in the ditch along the top lip of the welt pocket , the top fabric and lining together so that pocket has a structure
Step 5 Stitch back and front together
Keep the back bodice of the vest and the front panels right sides together. Pin at the shoulder and the side seams. Stitch in place
Step 6 Attach Buttons.
Make thread loops for the buttons.