Make a simple Vest – Free pattern

This is a pattern to sew a lined waist length Vest with double welt pocket on either side.  You can make this vest in less than 2.25 meters of cloth, lining included.

vest sewing pattern with princess seams

Take your body measurements

To make the vest you need to take these meaurements, preferably over the dress you will be wearing it over.

1. Bust circumference : This is taken over the fullest part of the chest
2. Waist circumference : This is taken over the narrowest part of the torso
3. Hip circumference : This is taken over the fullest part of the seat
4. Bust span: This is the distance from nipple to nipple
5. Shoulder to bust point : From shoulder /neck intersection to the nipple.
6. Shoulder width : Take measurement from shoulder to natural waist
7. Full vest length : From shoulder to desired hem
   

Draft Basic Front Block – with Armhole Princess Seam

Your front block for the vest includes shaped v-neckline, button extension, hem points, and princess seam from armhole to hem.

Width of the block : 1/4 of the bust circumference + 1 for the dart plus 1/2 inch for ease and 1.5″ for the seam allowance.

Length : Full vest length plus 1.5″ for seam & hem

Neck width : 1/12 of bust circumference. Mark neck length as 8 inches to 11 inches. Depending on how deep you want it to be. As you are wearing a vest on top of other clothing this can be as deep as 11″ and even more.

Mark a V neckline – you can mark this with a small inward curve to make it look natural on the body – mark 1/8 inch inward on the line from shoulder to the v neckline tip – curve the neckline slightly on this mark. I find this line is better than a straight line.

Mark the Shoulder drop : 1″

Mark the chestline : at armhole depth : You can take this standard as 9.5″ or can be calculated with this formula : 1/8th of bust circumference plus 4 to 5 ”

For a vest type top which you wear over undergarments : take 4″ And for a vest over other clothes : take 5″

Armhole: Draw a standard armhole curve from shoulder to bust line

Optional : 2 inches from the center line go up 2 inches and give an angled cut.

The princess seams creates contour from the armhole over the bust.

Measure and locate the bust point. Mark the bust point from the shoulder. And, From CF measure 1/2 of bust span inward.

On the curve of your armhole, measure about 1/3 of the way up from the underarm (the bust line). Mark this. This is the start of your princess seam.

Draw the princess curve connecting this armhole point to the apex of the bust

Continue the line straight down from the apex to the hem.

So you have the princess seam .

But you need to take out the armhole gap at the armhole curve. Add a 1/2″ dart at the armhole. And add a 1″ dart at the waist – You have already added this dart allowance when drafting the pattern.

Split the front pattern. Cut along the line. So now you have a center front panel and side front panel.

If you want you can add a Button Extension: Add 1–1.5 inches beyond the Center Front (CF) or add it as extra at the stitching time.

Cut a mirrored pattern pieces from your fabric. Cut 2 more for lining.

Back Block (With Waist dart)

The back of the vest is one piece cut on the fold, with the waist darts on both sides. Draft a bodice block with the same Length as the front

Width of the block : 1/4 of the bust circumference + 1 for the dart plus 1/2 inch for ease and 1/2″ for the seam allowance.

Mark a neckline 1″ deep

Back Shaping for the Waist Dart
From Center Back, measure 3 or 4 inches towards the sideseam or vertically down from the bust apex point.
Draw a dart:
Width: 1 inch
Length: 4 inches upward, 5 inches downward

This keeps the back fitted while the front carries the shaping.

Ensure the side seam length matches between front and back after shaping.

Waist pocket placement

Vertical Position: Place pocket 1.5 inches below the waistline

Position:Place the pocket on the Center Front Panel, between the princess seam and CF

Length:Pocket opening = 5 inches

Tilt (Optional): Raise outer edge by 0.5 inch for a tailored look

Ensure pocket does not interfere with the princess seam.

Fabrics to sew the vest:

You can use all kinds of fabrics to sew vests, but the best fabrics are denim, wool, cotton twill and jacquard (or brocade). And for lining you can use cotton voile, satin or Bemberg rayon, the fabric everyone raves about for lining.

Vest pattern without darts (for a beginner sewist)

Step 1 Mark the pattern 

Cut out the pattern pieces according to the pattern below. It is better to mark on a paper first and then cut on fabric. This is especially because the front panels are made based on the back pattern. So cut the paper pattern for the back bodice first, then make the front panel patterns on paper again , and then cut from the fabric

Back pattern

You need to measure the Bust round and also around the place where you want the vest to end. You can either make it shaped or straight down from the bustline. 

A – B = 18 ” This is the length of the vest I have taken. You can increase this or decrease this according to the length you want for the vest.

You need to measure the Bust round and also around the place where you want the vest to end. You can either make it shaped or straight down from the bustline. 

A – H = 18 ” This is the length of the vest I have taken. You can increase this or decrease this according to the length you want for the vest.

A-B =3.5″ This is the neck width. 
A-C = 1.5″. This is the backneck depth.
C-D= 1″“ . This is given for the shoulder slope.
A-G = Take measurement from one shoulder to the other. A-G is 1/2 of this

Related posts :DIY Shrugs; Different types of vests ; How to make a battle vest

For the front bodice panels 

Keep the back pattern on a larger piece of paper ( because the front pattern is about 3.5 inches longer and 1/2 inch wider. ) 

Mark the extra on the paper and cut out. Keep the front pattern on a folded fabric and cut the pattern; even though the front panel can be cut individually using the fold fabric, this way is better so that you get mirrored pieces.

But If you are not spatially challenged like me and never make the mistake of cutting  two similar peces instead of mirrored pieces for front lapels, go ahead and cut individually

The differences between the back and front are that the center has 1/2 inch extra as well as the bottom edge is 3.5 inches longer as in the pattern below. Then the armhole is drawn to the inside as in the pattern. The blue line denotes the front pattern ( & Red the back pattern)

Ofcourse I practise all the easy ways and never follow the rules and marked directly on the fabric – in which case donot frget about the extra 1/2 inch on the center

Related posts : Many names for different vests

Step 2 Make the welt pockets

Decide on the placement of the pockets on the front panel. You can place it horizontally or diagonally. Mark the placement as a single line on the right side of the front panels of the vest.

For women’s vest the pockets are usually 6 inches width. Checkout the post on making welt pockets for more details 

Take a piece of fabric of width 3 inches and 8 inches for the welt fabric.  Take a medium fabric which will retain the shape when folded for making the welt pockets. Mark a pocket opening of 6 inch length and 1/2 inch width on the back side of the welt piece

Keep the welt piece wrong side up  on the pocket marking of the front piece, right side up. I have decided to place this a little diagonally on the front panels some 2 inch from the center edge . Stitch along the horizontal lines you have marked ( back stitch at the start and end) – DONOT stitch the short sides of the box.

Cut open the middle line and the diagonal markings

Take the welt piece through the hole to the back

On the back fold the welt piece so that two lips are formed. Pin in place. Do finish the edges of the welt piece before stitching or it will look as horrible as mine does 

Turn the pocket so that the side seam allowance is exposed

Stitch it together with the small triangular piece you have cut earlier on the garment on either side of the pocket

Make such pocket on the other front panel as well

Step 3 Stitch the lining

Keep the lining piece on the back piece,  right sides together. Stitch along the neckline, bottom edge and armholes. Leave the shoulder and  side seam unstitched.

Clip the seam allowance every 1 – 2 inches for smooth turning. Turn the back bodice right side out through one of the side seam. Top stitch the neckline, armhole and the hem, ensuring that the lining is neatly rolled to the inside and not visible outside. Try pressing first and then stitching for best results.

Do this for the front panels as well

Remember to clip the corners and seam allowance.

Stitch in the ditch along the top lip of the welt pocket , the top fabric and lining together so that pocket has a structure

Step 5 Stitch back and front together

Keep the back bodice of the vest  and the front panels right sides together. Pin at the shoulder and the side seams. Stitch in place

Step 6 Attach Buttons.

To match the chenille fabric I have added some wooden buttons. You can sew any buttons.Checkout the post on attaching buttons with hand stitches here

Make thread loops for the buttons.