Body rise is a measurement you take from the waist to the crotch or vice versa. It is an important measurement to take on the body when sewing trousers or any garment with a crotch seam, especially in custom tailoring, allowing for differences in body shapes.
Body rise is the distance from the waist (or another starting point, depending on the garment) down to the crotch. A-B in the picture.
When you take body measurements for sewing, taking the exact measurements can result in clothing that is fitting. Body rise is no exception.
Related posts: Tailoring measurements
Which garments need body rise measurement?
Not all garments need this measurement. It is a necessary body measurement for sewing pants, shorts, jeans, jumpsuits, tights, divider skirts and underwear.
Taking the correct body rise and adding enough ease to it will determine how the garment will sit on the lower body. It affects not just the comfort but also the appearance.
The clothing can have a high-rise, mid-rise, or low-rise fit.
How to measure the body rise
First and foremost, Identify the waist and hip. Starting point is at the waist or where the top of the pants will sit.
The waist can be taken as where you will have the top edge of the garment. Typically, the waist is the narrowest part of the torso. For high-waisted trousers and jeans, this waist can be a starting point.
However, for items like low-rise pants or certain jumpsuits, you might start from a different spot, such as just above the hip bone.
Method 1 of measuring the body rise.
A very simple method is to get the person to sit and measure it like this, as in the picture below.
Method 2: Take it on the body using a flexible ruler.
Stand up straight with legs slightly apart. Place one end of the tape measure at the waist and bring it down through the legs to the crotch at the intersection point.
Ensure that the tape measure is snug but not tight. You should be able to insert one finger through the tape and the body.
End Point: The measurement extends down to the crotch area, where the inner seams of the trousers intersect.
Record this on your measurement chart.
Method 3. Suitable for men’s clothes
Another way of measuring the rise is this – Take the full length of the garment needed (say from waist to ankle) – this is A. Take the measurement of the inseam (inside leg length) – this is B. A- B = rise of your garment. This is usually taken for sewing men’s clothing.
The body rise is particularly important for correct trouser fit – it alters your sitting comfort. Pants can twist and pull after sewing or sag due to incorrect crotch or rise balance. In pattern alterations and fit adjustments the crotch measurement is a frequent headache – one that can go very wrong, if you are not careful.
Then, there are still garments where you leave a lot of body rise extra like for a drop crotch pant or the harem pants.
How to measure crotch depth
To alter the crotch length on the pattern, you will be making changes in the horizontal crotch depth line down from the waist- this line intersects the center-front and center-back.
Actually pattern companies have it difficult because two people with the same bust or hip can have very different rises and crotch measurement.
When taking measurement on a body, the person has to sit straight on a chair – for better measurement.
Is there a standard measurement for this?
Body rise vs Crotch
Though I said mentioned crotch measurement and body rise in the same sentence . There is a difference between them. Body rise is more important in garments like leotard, and body linings; and crotch measurement is used in pants and other lower body garments starting with a waistband – for which this is front crotch seam and back crotch seam.
The crotch measurement is the waistline to crotch curve. It is taken while sitting down and it is the measurement taken from your natural waist to the surface you are sitting on. The body rise is measured from shoulder to crotch and then back to the shoulder along the back of the body.
There is no standard measurement for crotch depth, but there can be a standard range. You can find it in this table – these are drafting reference ranges for crotch depth, not exact body measurements.
| Hip measure (8 inch below waistline) | Crotch depth from natural waist |
|---|---|
| 32″ | 9″ |
| 34″ | 9.5 -10″ |
| 36″ | 10.5″ |
| 38″ | 11.5″ |
| 40″ | 11.5″ to 12″ |
| 42″ | 12.25″ |
| 44″ | 12.5″ |
| 46″ | 13″ |
| 48″ | 13.5″ |
| 50″ | 14″ |
| 52″ | 14.5″ |
| 54″ | 15″ |
If you are using stretch fabric this will be different – subtract to account for the stretch. You will also have to account for the height of the person. If you are a petite, or a tall person or one with a long torso all these would change. If you are petite you will have to subtract 1 to 2 inch from this measurement. For a tall person, 2 to 3 inch will have to be added extra.
Application of body rise in Different Garments:
The rise affects how high or low the garment sits on your waist or hips. A proper rise ensures a comfortable fit, free from pulling or sagging.
An incorrect rise can feel bad for you – if you calculated it low or forgot to add enough rise, it can pinch on you and make you feel uncomfortable. When you miscalculate this, you will have to add extra fabric to the waistband. Imagine your plight if you have a jumpsuit that is pinching on the crotch.
Related article : How to fix garments that pinch, pull, or ride up because the rise is too short.
When the rise is too short on a trouser, the crotch area can look and feel tight and uncomfortable and creased.
For people with larger hips, buttocks, or thighs, adjusting the rise for more ease can provide extra comfort and a better fit. But, clothes with too long a rise might look baggy and unflattering. This point is emphasied in this post on selecting the right jeans for those with large thighs.
Pro tip: Consider taking both front and back rise measurements for close fitting pants and an exact fit.
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