Expandable pockets -sewing tutorial

This is a very easy-to-sew expandable pocket that opens up to hold more things than it appears to from the front. Though it appears flat from the front, its neat folding technique allows it to expand when filled, creating extra storage space.

Step 1: Cut out the pocket piece

Cut out a pocket piece of dimension : 7.5″ by 6.5″

After the hem is finished the height of the pocket will be 5.5″

Mark creases 1.5″ from either side on the 7.5″ edge.

Watch the video tutorial here:

Step 2: Hem the Top Edge

Fold the top edge (7.5″ side) down by 1/4″, press, then fold another 3/4″ to create a clean hem.

Step 3: Fold and crease bottom edge

Lay the fabric wrong side up on your work surface. Make a crease of 1/2 inch at the bottom edge.

Step 4: Create the Expandable Folds

Fold both vertical sides (5.5″ edges) inward by 1.5″and press a crease.

Sew along these creases, very close to the edge, on either sides. You will be folding the fabric along these lines, and edge stitching —this creates the expandable sides.

Step 5. Fold sides of the pocket fabric

On the back of the pocket piece, fold the bottom edge outside the creases on either side in an accordion fold. This creates the expanded portion of your pocket.

Pin in place.

Step 4. Attach the Pocket to Your Project

Position the pocket on your main fabric (bag, garment, etc.) right side up, making sure the pleats remain folded.

Pin or clip along the sides and bottom to hold everything in place.

Sew along the bottom edge.

Flip the pocket in place.

Fold the side edges.

Top stitch the folded edges at the sides.

Sew close to the edges of the pocket’s sides, making sure to backstitch at the top corners for extra durability.

Press the pocket once more to set the shape.

Other expandable pockets include cargo pockets, bellows pockets with gussets, and pleated pockets. Checkout this post on sewing a cargo pocket. Learn the names of all pockets here.