How to use the invisible zipper foot

By Sarina Tariq

Updated on

sewing machine feet -invisible zipper foot for home sewing machines

The Invisible zipper foot is an optional presser foot for sewing the special type of zippers which looks almost hidden in the seam- the invisible zipper. You can buy a snap-on foot for your low shank machines (the normal home sewing machines) or a screwing kind for your industrial machines. I have a different kind that I use with my industrial machine.

(After using it I do not think this is a necessary presser foot – You can just as easily sew the invisible zipper without any special foot, check out the page)

Differences between an invisible foot and a standard foot

This special foot has two grooves underneath for the zipper coil to pass through. To ensure the zipper remains truly invisible, you must sew very close to the coils; The zipper coil goes into this groove and makes it easier for you to stitch as close as possible along the coils. The invisible foot can be a very good tool as it is the best for it.

No need to even iron the zipper tape flat and risk burning of the zipper or twisting and turning to keep the coils straight or worrying about not being able to stitch close to the coils.

mermaid skirt pattern - sew with the invisible zipper foot
Sew with the invisible zipper foot

How to sew with the invisible zipper foot

There are many differences between the normal zipper and the invisible zipper and these are also features of the foot used to sew them.

Invisible zippers are installed before the seam is sewn. You attach the zipper to the garment first, then close the remaining seam below it. But sew close the seam with a basting stitchfirst.

Now baste the zipper on the back (with zipper face down) and on the seam allowance (only on the seam allowance)

Cut open the basting stitch of your seam

Now, You sew with the zipper open.

Invisible zippers are sewn right side of zipper to right side of fabric. The right tape goes into the right groove of the foot. The left tape goes into the left groove.

The zipper coils are kept on the back of the tape and are hidden inside the seam when closed.

Before sewing, most prefer to iron from the front of the zipper (Do not iron from the back) Then position the teeth under the groove which is on the bottom of the foot. The stitches should be close to the teeth but not over. Place the zipper coil in the groove of the invisible foot

Start stitching at the top of the zipper and continue until the foot reaches the end of the opening. Sew slowly. 

When you sew the zipper on the left side of the opening, adjust the needle to the right so that the needle will fall on the right side of the zipper tooth.

skirt with flounced hem - place needle to the right when you sew the left
Place needle to the right when you sew the left part

After stitching, you turn the fabric back into position—and that fold hides the zipper completely.

This foot vs the standard zipper foot : The regular zipper foot is half-width and can be snapped or screwed to either the left or right of the needle to get close to the zipper teeth. Usually the Standard zippers are sewn more “as-is,” with the teeth visible on the garment’s right side like in the case of a centered zipper installation or exposed zippers. With a standard zipper, you usually sew or baste the seam first, then insert the zipper into that opening.You sew the right side of the zipper from the left side of the foot. Then you flip the fabric and sew the other side using the same foot position or change the position of the foot (or the needle, depending on your machine) for the second side .

When you sew the zipper on the right side of the opening adjust the needle to the left so that the needle will fall on the left side of the zipper tooth.

skirt with flounced hem
Place needle to the left when you sew the right part

Most people can get on their sewing lives without needing to buy this foot but it is a great addition if you regularly sew with invisible zippers which result in great looking garments. When you sew with it, the closure looks like a plain seam when closed.

invisible zip

Remember to keep the zipper closed when washing the garment to ensure that it is not damaged.

Related posts : Names of all presserfoot for sewing machines

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Sarina, author of all sewing, fashion designing articles

Author: Sarina Tariq

Hi, I love sewing, fabric, fashion, embroidery, doing easy DIY projects and then writing about them. Hope you have fun learning from sewguide as much as I do. If you find any mistakes here, please point it out in the comments.

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