I adore everything about Japan – (maybe something to do with the fact that I have been seeing Shin Chan Cartoons with my kids every day for the past 10 years of my life) Whatever I have seen of Japan through books and TV shows has made me respect the country, its people ; their culture, their advancements in technology, their resilience in facing tragedies, their punctuality, their beautiful demeanor and manners – everything worthy of appreciation and emulation. A woman in Kimono, their traditional dress is the first image that comes to my mind when I think of Japan (other than Shin Chan)
What is a Kimono?
“Everyday garment? Art object? Symbol of Japan? “ – Kimono: A Modern History – Book by Terry Satsuki Milhaupt
A kimono is a long Japanese traditional dress which wraps around the body and has distinctively voluminous sleeves. It is tied around at the waist with the Obi belt. The elaborately tied Obi belt which could be as long as 12 feet or more is another distinguishing feature of the Kimono. The kimono used to be decorated with the wearers family crest.
In Japan a Kimono is worn by both men and women. It became the traditional clothing around late 700’s and everyone in Japan used to wear their Kimonos, all the time, men women and children. Since then Kimono has undergone many changes.
Kimono was accepted as the traditional clothing of Japan for a long time. But with the Meiji era (from 1868) the Japanese government started discouraging Kimonos (Wafuku meaning Japanese clothes) and Japanese people were encouraged to adopt western clothes.
Nowadays Kimonos are worn only during special occasions like funerals, festivals, and weddings.
How is a Kimono worn?
Kimono is a wrap around dress worn left front of the kimono overlapping the right front; worn the same way by both males and females.
To wear a kimono in the traditional way you need a lot of accessories like the obi belt, and other accessories that will support the obi belt like Obimakura, Koshihimo, Obita, Datejime which gives the obi-belt support, make it look good and prevent it getting wrinkled and out of shape when tied around the body.
If you are really interested in being authentic you can also get a Nagajuban, an under-kimono worn under the kimono, tabi (white cotton socks) & zori sandals. Hakama is the name of pants, sometimes worn under kimonos by men. Michiyuki is a coat worn over the Kimono
Wearing a kimono is very easy if not for the obi belt tying. The men wear kimonos simply by tying the obi belt around the waist.
But for wearing a traditional kimono, especially for formal occasions, a woman has to tie the obi belt in a special way – it is called ohashori and it is a triple belting process which involves the obi belt and another belt tied around the obi belt with a bow at the back. This could take hours to perfect. But you could also settle for the simple Obi knot known as Nagoya obi knot.
If you are rich you will be wearing more than a one single kimonos. You can wear as many as 12 kimonos one on top of the other.
Special features of the Kimono
The experts could tell a lot of things about the wearer like the age and status of the wearer, her family, where she is going to and what is the season etc from the Kimono she is wearing.
“The cut, color, fabric, and decorations of a kimono may vary according to the sex, age, and marital status of the wearer, the season of the year, and the occasion for which the kimono is worn.”
Reference & More reading on this and pictures of traditional kimonos here : History of Kimono
By looking at the sleeves of the kimono you could deduce the age and marital status of a woman. For example young unmarried women would wear kimonos with loose flowing sleeves which are very long as to touch the floor. But married women wore kimonos with short sleeves
By looking at the crest embroidered on the kimono one could tell the wearer’s family name
If you are a young woman you will wear a long-sleeved kimono in very colourful fabric / or with bright designs. If you are a married woman you will wear a short sleeved kimono. The colours of this kimono will be more subdued than for the unmarried girls. If you are a bride you will wear a white kimono
If you are a child you will wear kimonos which are brightly colored or with vivid prints and patterns. If you a very small baby you will be dressed in a white under kimono and on top another kimono which will be a bright coloured one for a girl and a black for the boy
The kimonos worn by the samurai consisted of three parts: the kimono, then a sleeveless garment known as a kamishimo worn over the kimono and a hakama, a trouser-like split skirt
For a wedding a man will wear a black kimono with a white obi and for funeral, he will wear a black kimono with a black obi.
Different types of Kimonos
Furisode Kimono: This is the formal Kimonos worn by unmarried women. These kimonos have long flowing sleeves that almost reached the ankles. They have colorful and bright designs on them.
Shiromuku Kimono: The white heavily embroidered kimono worn by Japanese brides. An over kimono in a bright colour (red or orange) maybe worn over this white kimono at the wedding reception.
Tomesode Kimono: This is a formal kimono with shorter sleeve, worn by married women. The kimono will have designs only on the bottom edge
Kuro Tomesode: Tomesode Kimonos are usually in a black fabric for formal occasions
Irotomesode: Tomesode Kimonos which are in other colours
Homongi Kimono: This is a semi formal kimono with colourful designs /patterns all over it, especially on the back and sleeves. It is also named “visiting kimono”. It could be worn by both married and unmarried women
Tsukesage Kimono: This is a kimono with patterns running up the length of the Kimono on the back to the front over the shoulder and on the sleeves. This is worn on occasions like weddings, other parties, tea ceremonies etc, by both married and unmarried women.
Komon Kimono: A Kimono with small, subtle repeating patterns all over the fabric ; the prints are usually floral; This is a casual style kimono.
Tsumugi Kimono: Kimonos with brighter, more prominent patterns.
Yukata Kimono: This is kimono worn during the summers. It is made of cotton fabric
Mofuku Kimono: This is a Kimono worn for funerals; It is black for men and women with a black obi belt
Montsuki Kimono: This is a formal kimono worn by men for formal parties or ceremonies, like marriage ceremonies of family or relative.
Haori Kimono: A short kimono which looks like a jacket.
Type of fabric used for making kimonos
Usually, a superior silk fabric is used to make the traditional kimonos. A habutai silk is a favourite. It is a lightweight, shimmering material . Spun silk is also used.
The summer kimono which is more casual in nature is made of lightweight cotton fabric. Usually blue and white are the colours used for these kimonos called Yukata but other bright colours and floral patterns are also used.
Colours of the fabric depended on many factors. Colour combinations were very important in traditional Japanese kimonos – it was mostly dependant on seasons. The political class also was one-factor. More on this on the different colour combinations used in Kimonos can be read here.
How are kimonos made?
Kimonos have a straight line cutting method – almost all the pattern pieces are cut as a straight line. You need about 12 meters of cloth to make a traditional kimono.
Check out this post “Make an easy Kimono ” for a simple sewing pattern to make one yourself’
Lot More on Kimonos : www.wafuku.co.uk/kimonoinfo1.htm