This is a pattern for a floor length panel dress with a bodice with a false placket.The panels give a good flare to the dress without adding bulk to the waist
This pattern has raised waistline. Check out the post on different types of waistlines for more on this
Cut out the pattern pieces. 2 bodices – front and back bodice- as per the pattern given below
First mark the length – the bodice ends at the smallest part of your body. So take the waist measurement there – it is usually just under the bust. You need to add 1: seam allowance as well
For me it is J-N = 15″
J-H = 1/2 of Shoulder to shoulder measure + 1/4 “
H-A= 1/2″( this is for a small shoulder slope)
J-C = 2″ ( this is the neck depth for the back neck; take as you need it)
J-L = 7.5″ /Armhole depth . Ref the table below)
K-L = 1/4 of bust round +2″
Mark down straight from A – D on the line K-L. Mark 1″ diagonally to E
D-E = 1″
M-N = 1/4 of waist round + 1.5″ ( This is the bottom edge of the bodice)
To give a small curve mark up from M to O = 1/2″
Take two fabric pieces length and fold by half.
Cut out the back and front bodice same first as per the back bodice pattern. Then remove one piece and continue marking the front pattern on the remaining one.
Mark the front pattern as per the picture given below
Cut out the neck and armhole which are different from the back pattern
Cut out bias tape for neck binding (1″ wide and for length measure around the neckline back and front and add seam allowances) and a piece of fabric strip 10 inch long and 1.5 inch wide. This piece is for making a mock placket on the front bodice. You can attach small buttons or cloth buttons here.
Make the mock placket
Take the fabric strip and press with a hot iron the side edges inside 1/4 inch on both long edges .
Keep that on the front bodice on the center fold line
Pin in place and stitch in place ( the white lines on the picture above)
Join the shoulder seams – joining back bodice to front bodice
Bind the neck with the bias binding strip. You should make a center fold and attach the edges along the neckline starting from the back
Remember to make a fold when you start. This will give a turned inside edge rather than a raw edge
Donot join the side seams now. Press everything neatly and cut the loose threads ( yeah, I havenot; good for you to notice)
Cut out the sleeve pieces. You can make any type of sleeves – checkout this post for drafting sleeves. Donot want to repeat myself.Just remember that you need to get mirror image sleeve pieces – as the front and back sleeve lines are different. You can get this by keeping fabric pieces right sides together and marking the sleeves.
Keep the sleeve on top of the bodice ; right sides together aligning the center fold of the sleeve to the shoulder seam.
Stitch the edges together. Trim the seam allowance and finish the edges inside. Finish the sleeve hem.
Sleeve is joined here
Cut out the panels for the skirt piece as per the pattern below
Take the side panels ( 2 Nos) and cut right through the middle so that you have 4 pieces now for the side panels
Join the center panel to the two other panels – look at the order below. The tapering sides should be to the outside. Make the back and front skirt panels like this
You have two skirt pieces now. The back skirt and the front skirt
Keep the skirt pieces folded by the center. You should cut off the top edge and bottom edge as per the picture below
Join the front skirt to the front bodice and back skirt to the back bodice
Join the side seams from the sleeve hem to the bottom edge in one go for both the sides. Do the hem as well.