Make a PANEL DRESS- free sewing pattern & tutorial

This is a pattern for a floor length panel dress with a bodice with a false placket.The panels give a good flare to the dress without adding bulk to the waist

This pattern has raised waistline. Check out the post on different types of waistlines for more on this

Cut out the pattern pieces. 2 bodices – front and back bodice-  as per the pattern given below

First mark the length – the bodice ends at the smallest part of your body. So take the waist measurement there – it is usually just under the  bust.  You need to add 1: seam allowance as well

For me it is J-N = 15″

J-H = 1/2 of Shoulder to shoulder measure + 1/4 “
H-A= 1/2″( this is for a small shoulder slope)
J-C = 2″ ( this is the neck depth for the back neck; take as you need it)
J-L = 7.5″ /Armhole depth . Ref the table below)
K-L = 1/4 of bust round  +2″

Mark down straight from A – D on the line K-L. Mark 1″ diagonally to E
D-E = 1″

M-N = 1/4 of waist round + 1.5″ ( This is the bottom edge of the bodice)

To give a small curve mark up from M to  O = 1/2″

Take two fabric pieces length  and fold by half.

Cut out the back and front bodice same first as per the back bodice pattern. Then remove one piece and continue marking the front pattern on the remaining one.

Mark the front pattern as per the picture given below

Cut out the neck and armhole which are different from the back pattern

Cut out bias tape for neck binding (1″ wide and for length measure around the neckline back and front and add seam allowances) and a piece of fabric strip 10 inch long and 1.5 inch wide. This piece is for making a mock placket on the front bodice. You can attach small buttons or cloth buttons here.

Make the mock placket

Take the fabric strip and press with a hot iron the side edges inside 1/4 inch on both long edges .

Keep that on the front bodice on the center fold line

Pin in place and stitch in place ( the white lines on the picture above)

Join the shoulder seams – joining back bodice to front bodice

Bind the neck with the bias binding strip. You should make a center fold and attach the edges along the neckline starting from the back

Remember to make a fold when you start. This will give a turned inside edge rather than a raw edge

Do not join the side seams now. Press everything neatly and cut the loose threads ( yeah, I havenot; good for you to notice)

Join Sleeves

Cut out the sleeve pieces. You can make any type of sleeves – checkout this post for drafting sleeves. Do not want to repeat myself.

Just remember that you need to get mirror image sleeve pieces – as the front and back sleeve lines are different. You can get this by keeping fabric pieces right sides together and marking the sleeves.

Keep the sleeve on top of the bodice ; right sides together aligning the center fold of the sleeve to the shoulder seam.

Stitch the edges  together. Trim the seam allowance and finish the edges inside. Finish the sleeve hem.

Sleeve is joined here

Skirt panels

Cut out the panels for the skirt piece as per the pattern below

Take the side panels ( 2 Nos) and cut right through the middle so that you have 4 pieces now for the side panels

Join the center panel to the two other panels – look at the order below. The tapering sides should be to the outside. Make the back and front skirt panels like this

 

You have two skirt pieces now. The back skirt and the front skirt

Keep the skirt pieces folded by the center. You should cut off the top edge and bottom edge as per the picture below

Join the front skirt to the front bodice and back skirt to the back bodice

Join the side seams from the sleeve hem to the bottom edge in one go for both the sides. Do the hem as well.

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Updated on September 16, 2022 by Sarina Tariq