How to Draft different necklines
When it comes to dressing one of the most important factors that can make or break your looks is the neckline. A good neckline can enhance your looks and flatter your body. But a bad one can totally wreck the whole outfit. You have to decide on which neckline will compliment your body. Below you will find a list of necklines and the method to draft a pattern for them
Check out also the post on about 60+ different types and variations of neckline designs .
Table of Contents
Other than suitability other factors also influence the neckline you choose for your dresses like the type of dress you are designing , the occasion, cloth etc. At times you also may wish to go against the fashion diktats and choose a neckline which you have never tried.
Make a Facing
Checkout this post on making a facing for the neckline and assembling it, for the correct way to sew the neckline you have drafted.
Behind every nice looking neckline is a facing. Without facing the necklines will turn out shabby and unprofessional looking.
Take a square piece of cloth 10 inches into 10 inches. Iron the interfacing on to the wrong side of this square piece of clothing. Mark the Neckline on the right side of this cloth. After marking leave one and half inches margin and and cut along the edges of the neck. Finish the fabric edges of the facing before sewing it to the neckline.
Assembling the neckline
For all the necklines the breadth of the neckline and the depth is first marked on the folded cloth (I mark on the wrong side of the facing cloth)
I use the following convenient chart to determine how much breadth and depth of neck I should mark according to the bust measurement. The chart gives the measurement for a neck which is very close to the neck. If you want to you can fold a favourite top or dress bodice and measure the neckline for neck width from the center fold line and the neck depth and go from there .
Bust Measurement | Neck width ( inches) | Neck depth (inches) |
---|---|---|
20 | 2 | 4 |
22 | 2 | 4 |
24 | 2 1/4 | 4 |
26 | 2 1/4 | 4 1/2 |
28 | 2 1/2 | 5 |
30 | 2 1/2 | 5 1/2 |
32 | 2 1/2 | 6 |
34 | 2 3/4 | 6 1/2 |
36 | 2 3/4 | 7 |
38 | 3 | 7 |
40 | 3 | 7 |
42 | 3 | 7 |
Round neckline
0-1 Mark the neck width as per your bust measurement ( as seen in the table)
1 – 3 Mark the depth of the neckline ( as you need it or refer the table)
1-2 Mark straight down
2 -3 Join 2 to 3 in a straight line
2-4 Mark a staright line inside such that 4 is marked 1 inches inside. Join 1 -4-3 in a nice round shape.
Checkout the tutorial to make a tank top to see how this neckline is assembled with the facing turned outside as an embroidered yoke
U neck line
This neckline can be drafted the same way round neckline is drafted above. U is a variation of round, the difference being that this one is narrower and deeper
Checkout this panel dress pattern tutorial where this neckline is bound with bias tape.
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V neckline
0-1 Mark the neck width as per your bust measurement ( as seen in the table)
1 – 3 Mark the depth of the neckline ( as you need it or refer here)
1-2 Mark straight down
2 -3 Join 2 to 3 in a straight line
2-4 Mark a straight line inside such that 4 is marked 2 inches inside. Join 1 -4-3 in a straight line with just a hint of a curve -so that the v neck can be stitched nicely and lies beautifully on the body
Checkout the post 6 ways to stitch a V-neckline to your dress/top for more details on stitching this neck – how to sew piping to a v-neckline; how to sew binding on v-neckline etc.
Scoop neckline
This is a round neckline lying somewhat low on the bust.
0-1 Mark the neck width as per your bust measurement ( as seen in the table)
1 – 3 Mark the depth of the neckline ( as you need it or refer here)
1-2 Mark straight down
2 -3 Join 2 to 3 in a straight line
B midpoint of 1-2
C Take one inch upwards and mark C
A Take one inch downward and mark
D-E Mark 3/4 inches from D to E
2-3 From corner 2 Mark 3/4 inches upwards to 3
1-E-A-3-4. Draw the neckline in a nice shape. Mark facing line alongside
Sweetheart neckline
0-1 Mark the neck width as per your bust measurement ( as seen in the table)
1 – 3 Mark the depth of the neckline ( as you need it or refer here)
1-2 Mark straight down
2 -3 Join 2 to 3 in a straight line
B – midpoint of 1-2
C Take one inch upwards and mark
A Take one inch downward and mark
C- D Mark D so that C-D is I inch
Join 10 – D- A -3 in a nice shape
The red line indicates facing cutting line
Leaf shaped neck
0-1 Mark the neck width as per your bust measurement ( as seen in the table)
1 -4 ¼ inch inside
1-3 Mark the depth of the neckline ( as you need it or refer here)
1-2 Mark straight down
2-3 Join to 3 in a straight line
C midpoint of 1-2
C – D Take half inch outward from C
2 – 5 Take 1 ½ inches inside
4 – D-5 – 3 Join in a curved line
Keyhole / Kurta style slit opening
0-1 Mark the neck width as per your bust measurement ( as seen in the table)
1 – 3 Mark the depth of the neckline ( as you need it or refer here)
1-2 Mark straight down
2 -3 Join 2 to 3 in a straight line
Mark up 2 1/2 inches from 3 to the point 4
Join in a soft curve from 1 -4
Make a slit from 4 to 3
Checkout the Kaftan tutorial with this type of opening or the cold shouldered top sewing pattern
Arch neckline or scalloped neck
This neckline is best suited for both back and front necklines
0 -1 Take neck width as per chest measurement
1- A Take 3/4 inches outside from 1 to A
A – 2 Take neck depth from 8 -9 inches
Join in a straight line
Divide this line into 4 parts and mark B . Take the center of each part and mark as C
C- D Mark 1/2 inches upwards. Make an arch along these measurements. except on the last one which should be marked as in the diagram
Basket neck line
0-1 Mark neck width as per the bust measurement
1-3 Neck depth as desired
0-1-2-3 Form a nice rectangle with all right angles
2-A Mark 1 or 1 1/2 inches inside from 2 to A
Join 1 – A – 3 to form the neck shape
Square neckline
Checkout this post on making a dress – free dress sewing pattern & tutorial for sewing a square neck
Jewel neckline
This neckline lies very close to the neck. It is not broad or deep. This is usually seen in Kids’ clothes
Boat neckline
This neckline is a variation of Jewel neckline. It is broader than jewel neckline and looks like a boat hence the name
Cowl necklines
Checkout the tutorial to sew a Cowl neck top for drafting this neckline
Straight pentagonal neckline
0-1 Mark neck width as per the bust measurement
1-3 Neck depth as desired
0-1-2-3 Form a nice rectangle with all right angles
1- A Mark A as 1/2 inch inside from point 1
B – Midpoint of 1-2
C Mark C as 1 inch downwards from B
D Mark D i/2 inch outside from C
Join A – D – 3
Star neck
0-1 Mark neck width as per the bust measurement (refer the table)
1-3 Neck depth as desired
Divide the line 1 -3 into equal parts and mark these points as A & B Mark the midpoint of A-B as C.
D Mark D as midpoint of 1 -2
Mark the star point from A & B to D . Join the two lines.
High neck line
This shrug pattern features a high neck neckline
Strapless neckline
Off shoulder neckline
Halter neckline
Checkout the tutorial to draft a Halter neck top pattern for instructions to make this neckline
Asymmetrical
One factor you have to consider when deciding on the neckline is whether you want a similar neckline on the back also or whether you want a closed neck in the back . If the back neck is to be a closed one then you have to take care that the depth should start from atleast 6 inches for the smallest of bust sizes, other wise it will not look good. For bust sizes of 38 inches and above it should be 7 to 7.5 inches.
When you draft a neck pattern you should make a muslin first before trying it out on an expensive cloth, if it is a neck design you have not tried before
Related post :
50+ Neckline ideas for salwar suits/ Kurtis/churidar.
Comments 37
The tutorial is straight forward and helpful. Thanks
Thank you so much for these.
It’s indeed helpful but why should the depth have more inches more than the width?
This page is helpful
Author
Hi Olaide
Happy to know that ; thanks for commenting
Thanks slot but at least show as pattern drafting also
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Wow! This is wonderful, thanks alot
This is very helpful to me. I’ve been sewing all my life with no professional instruction, and recently been trying to learn more about other techniques. I’ve always used patterns or my own clothes and made varying changes to get the design I have in mind. I’d love to become better at pattern drafting and tailoring, as some of my more difficult pieces are more ‘error’ than trial.
One neckline/bodice I can’t find much help with is the sort of halter (perhaps this is not the correct term) which is like 2 triangles that overlap at the chest and go upward to tie at the back of neck. I see it most often on bikini tops, but I adore this style on an empire waist dress. I wonder if you have any tutorials or suggestions on more professional methods.
Thanks for sharing this great information, I’ll be visiting often!
Author
Hi Joy
Thanks for the comment.Maybe this one would help – https://sewguide.com/halter-neck-top-diy-pattern/
Thanks very helpfull, have been looking for something like this.
I’ve been looking for these or years–Thank You
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Hi how are you? I am struggling with the designing and cutting of the v-neckline. Please help urgently.
Many Thanks
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Author
Thanks Bola
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Author
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Author
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Author
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Author
🙂
thanks a lot .kindly send me man shalwar kameez patteran.
Thanks for the tutorials
Author
🙂
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Author
🙂