This is an easy to make chiffon top that can be worn under cardigans and long jackets. Though simple enough to make, in the course of making this top, I invented some choice swear words. These thin lightweight fabrics, though beautiful, flowy, drapey and dreamy are not the easiest dressmaking fabrics to sew.
But if you have mastered some tricks, thin fabrics can be sewn without much trouble – sometimes! Check out the post on sheer/transparent fabrics for more details; and the 10 best lightweight fabrics for dressmaking
Step 1 Cut out the back pattern
Step 2 Cut out the front pattern
Step 3 Cut out the neck /armhole binding pieces
You need 2 pieces of armhole binding strips of 2 inches wide ( cut on the bias or crosswise grain – beware chiffon stretches a lot on the bias) These pieces should be enough to go around the armhole of the bodice with 1″ extra for overlap
The neck binding strip should be 4 1/2 inch wide and enough to go around the neckline edge with 1 inch overlap .
Step 4 Join the shoulder seams and side seams
You may want to make a 2-inch slit – so leave the 2 inches unstitched at the bottom edge on the two sides. When you trim the seam allowance, do not trim the seam allowance along the slit- this has to be folded and stitched.
Because you can see through the fabric, you will want to have a clean finish to the inside cut edges of the seam allowances. Either serge the edges or make a zig-zag stitch after trimming the seam allowance close to the seam line. French seams are also a very good option
Step 5 Join the neck binding
Keep the neck binding piece to the inside of the back of the neckline (fold the short edge 1/4 inch first) and then start stitching along the neckline edge. When you reach back to where you started overlap the binding and finish the stitching.
Clip the seam allowance all over the neckline
Pin the overlapping edges of neck binding – this will need to be adjusted later so do not stitch in place.
Fold the neck binding to the outside. Pin this. Now stitch the overlapping short edges of the neck binding. Now top stitch the binding in place.
Step 6 Finish armhole binding
Bind the armholes the same way as the neckline
Step 7 Finish the slit and the hem
Fold the seam allowances at the slit twice and stitch in place. Hem the bottom edge of the top with a baby hem. A baby hem is made by turning/folding the edge once 1/4 inch and then stitch along the fold. Then trim the extra allowance. Turn again 1/4 inch and stitch in place.