Among all the sheer dreamy fabrics you will find that organza is one of the least troublesome to sew – here are some extra tips to make sewing with organza really ‘the’ least troublesome.
One of the most important characteristics of organza is that it is a crisp sheer fabric, so it is not slippery and difficult to manage when sewing and cutting like some other sheers like chiffon; it is comparatively easy to cut out and stitch. But still, it is a very thin fabric and all the problems that come up with thin fabrics can happen with organza too.
Problems in sewing Organza fabric and solutions
1. Organza can slip when you are cutting it
Though it is not slippery it can still cause problems when sewing several layers together.
Related post: Sewing furry fabrics like fake fur. If you’re having problems cutting organza, pin a layer to tissue paper or newspaper and cut it as a single piece.
2. Organza is see through
Seams and Cut edges of Organza – everything is visible outside. Whatever you stitch on the back of the fabric is visible on the front. So use seam stitching which will look pretty on the front too.
A French seam is what experts use inside the organza fabric. Another suitable seam treatment is flat fell seams.
Organza edges do fray, especially the polyester one and this can look bad from the outside if you leave the cut edges as they are with a regular seam. If you are using regular seams, finish the edges with binding.
3. Seam slippage of Organza
Organza is a fine fabric and it can tear apart at the seams if you sew tight fitting clothes with it. A machine stitch setting of 2 mm or 2.5 mm max is preferred to sew organza.
Remember to sew with a sharp needle – A universal needle of size 60/8 to 70/10 is recommended. Use very fine thread on your sewing machine. An extra fine Polyester thread is suitable.
4. Organza gets sucked inside the machine when you sew with it
To prevent organza from being sucked inside the sewing machine while sewing, you can change your throat plate to one with a small hole. (the one used with zig-zag stitches is bigger); Some people suggest keeping paper under the fabric as you sew.
5. The Hems on organza looks wonky
For hems, a baby hem is preferred. Rolled hems are also pretty but some may find it difficult to manage.
2 ways to hem organza
The first one is a narrow hem. This is a good hem for clothes – the 2 stitching lines you make will give the hem enough strength and stability and the look of the narrow hem is also nice.
Step 1.
Using a moderate iron press your hem edge to the inside 1/4 inch.
Step 2. Make a stitch very close to the fold.
Step 3. Now using duckbill scissors or small sharp scissors or your thread snips, cut out the extra seam allowance very close to the stitching line.
Step 4. Now fold the hem again to the inside again.
Stitch in place.
This is a very nice narrow hem.
But when you have lots and lots of area to hem sewing two lines may seem impractical. This second method helps then.
Fold your fabric edge to the inside. Take a small bottle of paper glue (the washable transparent kind) Or make a white flour paste, very diluted. Use the glue to baste the edge in place. Now fold again and use the glue again. Just press in place – the edge will hold till you do your sewing. This will give you a neat edge – better than winging the sewing and getting a wonky edge.
6. Finishing the edges of long lengths of organza takes a lot of time
Cut edges of organza can fray, and as the edges will be visible on the outside as well, you must finish the fabric edges. You can finish the cut edges with bias tape for a professional look. But this is very time consuming. One edge finish many people try on organza is using heat to seal the edges. Just use a lighter flame along the cut edges – this seals the edge.
Be careful of the flame though – you can use a heated knife if you are not confident of not causing extra damage with this method. And beware of making blackened edges in polyester organza.
7. Organza is see through
If you do not like the sheer look of organza you can use the same fabric as a Lining/underlining. You get the same drape and the sheerness is reduced too.
8. Organza doesnot have a good drape
Select the fabric only for designs that suit its drape and fall. Organza has a voluminous, buoyant look and is suitable for sewing exaggerated design details like puffy frills and other trims, exaggerated sleeves, and ruched embellishments.
Related post: Organza fabric; How to sew sheer lightweight fabrics.; Organdy fabric
