Sew Guide » Beginner’s guide to Smocking Fabric – Techniques and patterns

Beginner’s guide to Smocking Fabric – Techniques and patterns


how to do smocking

I have always been fascinated by smocking done on my girls’s dresses and always thought it is too difficult to do . Realistically it is a little bit difficult to do than other embroidery work but the effort is worth it.

I have given this post the title beginner’s guide because even I am a beginner and learning along as I go. Hope you also find some value from it and start smocking all the fabric in sight.

smocking tutorial

What is smocking ?

Smocking is a design technique to control the fullness in a fabric. It involves decorating the gathers with delicate embroidery stitches. To do smocking, regular gathers ( or pleats) are taken on the fabric with long stitches on the back and very small stitches in the front.

Most of the time other embroidery details like flower designs are done along with smocking. 

Which fabric is best for smocking ?

Linen, crepe, silk, lawn cotton, ginghams, velvet, chiffon, lace , knits. You name the fabric and it has been smocked by women in earlier times

A light to medium weight evenly woven  fabric with a smooth surface is ideal for smocking. You can choose plain or printed cotton, poplin, cotton lawn, silk, satin, cotton blends, organdie,  lightweight denim and lightweight wool blends.

A beginner can choose a checked cotton fabric as there is already a guideline for you to gather the fabric evenly. I am assuming that you donot have a pleater. A knit fabric or a velvet fabric as a first project would be difficult to tackle. A plain fabric can also be taken , if the guidelines for the pleats are correctly made.

smocking

How much extra cloth is needed to do smocking ?

You need atleast 3 times the cloth for the width of the final piece. ie if you want a final smocked piece of 10 inches you need to take 30 inches cloth to do the smocking. But then it also depends on the tightness of the smocking stitches. If you make very slack stitches the cloth needed will be less. Add the seam allowance as well.

Which thread is best for smocking ?

Smocking stitches are done with regular embroidery thread. On silk clothes use silk thread and on cotton fabric use cotton thread 

Colour of the thread – A simple colour scheme works well for smocking, which should look elegant raher than tacky. Pastel colours works best on light coloured fabric. Keep the thread ( two strands of the thread) near your fabric to see if it suits. One or two colours, two or three shades of the same colour are all preferred for smocking.
I use three strands of thread for the smocking stitches ; for a thicker effect you can choose four strands. 

I love the lustre of cotton perle thread for smocking.

How to prepare fabric for smocking ?

Preshrunk/ prewash the fabric before smocking. It is true that unwashed fabric looks best when smocked but shrinking of fabric is a possibility. So prewashing the fabric is  necessary.

Take the cloth along the lengthwise grain of the fabric

Professionals add a light fusible interfacing to hold the pleats especially for thin fabric.

How to gather fabric for smocking ?

There are three ways you can gather the fabric

  1. Hand gathering
  2. Machine gathering
  3. Using a pleater

Machine gathering is easy . Checkout this post on gathering fabric . Make basting stitches and gather. But the problem is that machine gathering doesnot give even pleats .

It is very very important that you get even gathering ; which means the pleat on the first row and the second row should be the same for all gathering. The pleats should all line up vertically 
This is the most important thing that qualifies the beauty of smocking. 

If you have a pleater all the problem goes away. The pleater does the job beautifully

Hand pleating is the next best option, though it tests your patience.

A smocking transfer available in the market can make this process easier. The smocking transfer consists of a series of evenly spaced dots on a paper which can be transfered to the fabric with heat. You get different types of smocking transfers with differences in the spacing of the dots. For very fine cloth small spacings are more suitable and this will give shallow pleats.

How to use the smocking transfer?

  • Read the instructions thoroughly on the transfer cover
  • First of all cut out the smocking transfer to the size of your fabric.
  • Place the fabric wrong side up on the ironing table.
  • Place the smocking transfer right side down on the fabric
  • Press the iron on the transfer . Donot iron.
  • If all the dots are transfered on to the fabric take it off and use.

Hand marking – Marking the dots yourself is the next option ;  a slightly cumbersome task but for a passionate sewist who wants to smock very badly this is the best option , unless you are doing the smocking on a checked fabric.

Measure and mark the dots with a ruler and pencil on the wrong side of the work. You have to ensure that each stitch is set directly under the same stitch in the row above and the rows of stitching are all same distance apart

Make running stitches through the dots and at the end of each row leave thread tails hanging down

smocking fabric

Gather the fabric. Tie two thread tails each at the end, making sure the pleats are tight. Cut off the thread tails. 

how to smock

Basic rules of smocking

  • The gathering thread is to be used as a guide to keep your smocking stitches even and straight.
  • At all times make sure that the needle is held straight /horizontally – parallel to the stitches and perpendicular to the pleats and valleys
  • Ensure that the gathering thread is not caught in the smocking stitches. When everything is done you may find it difficult to cut it off.
  • Always make sure that the each stitch is dirctly below the one above it
  • Crewel needle – of sizes 5 to 8 – are suitable for smocking
  • Come to the front of the fabric through the valley of the first pleat. Begin the row by inserting the needle right to left into the first pleat (to secure the knot), then go on to pick the next pleat.

 

Steps to smocking

Step 1

After the fabric is gathered count your pleats. You need an even number of pleats.

Now mark the  center two pleats. The center of your smocking is actually the valley between these two pleats. You can make a mark at this place with a small stitch or using the chalk. This is a very important step in smocking

Step 2

Skip the first gathering row for smocking stitches. You can use this row as a guide for the further stitching

Also Leave 3 pleats to either side – to account for seam allowance. If you have already left seam allowance donot bother.

Step 3.

Come up from the side of the third pleat ( or first pleat if you have already left seam allowance) . Bring needle up through the left hand valley of the next pleat.Insert needle back through the  first pleat – the one you will be strating the stitch with (from left to right) keeping needle parallel to the gathering thread

I assume you will be working from left to right . Left handed people will be working from right to left.

I always start with a  row of stem stich first to hold the gathered fabric in place. You can make one or two rows of stem stitch like this to hold the gathers firmly in place.

Step 4

Do the smocking stitches. The common smocking stitches are descibed and illustrated below

Smocking stitches

The most freuqnetly used smocking stitches are

  1. Stem stitch
  2. Cable stitch
  3. Wave stitch
  4. Diamond stitch

 

Stem Stitch

This resembles the embroidery stem stitch . Usually this stitch is used at the beginning of the smocking – as it holds the gathers tightly. Each stem stitch picks one pleat of the fabric and joins it to the next one.

 

stem stitch smocking
stem stitch smockingBring up the needle through the first pleat, to the left of the pleat. Pick up the next pleat , at an angle and come up at the middle of the two pleats. Continue doing the same thing . Remeber that the thread will be over two pleats

Cable stitch


This stitch is made the same way that the embroidery cable stitch is done
This is similar to the stem stitch but the position of the thread in relation to the needle is alternated to make this stitch
First the thread is kept below the needle, then for the next stitch the thread is kept above the needle


Wave stitch

smocking
This is a very elastic stitch perfect as the last stitch in the smocking, because this stitch lets out the tightness of the gathers ( If that is the effect you want for the last row of smocking)

 

smocking stitchesAfter making a straight stitch between two pleats, go up and pick up the second pleat and the next pleat ( keep the needle horizontal) . Now go up and take up the third pleat and the next pleat. Keep the thread under the needle.

 

Diamond  stitch

1. First mark the top and bottom levels for your stitch. This stitch should be level with the marks at all times.

2. Make an under cable stitch level with the bottom mark. You have the needle in between the pleats now
3. Go on to take the second pleat in level with the top gathering thread.The thread should be under the needle. 
4. Now bring the thread to over the needle and Make a cable stitch at the top mark
5. Thread  still over the needle, move back down to the bottom mark and pick up this third pleat again.
6. Thread under needle, stitch a bottom level cable

Checkout this video to better understand how this is done.

All other stitches are variations of these basic stitches. You can make different combinations and patterns if you master these stitches

Step 5.

When each row is completed make back stitch on the single pleat at the end ( donot take two pleats to finish the stitch) . Knot at the end. 

Step 6

If you want to make a center design , Do so on either side of the center valley you had marked earlier ( as the center of the smocking).

Any other small motifs should be made counting the pleats  from the center valley for a beautiful even look

If you want to loosen up the gathers towards the end of smocking honeycomb stitch or the wave stitch is used , because of the stretchiness of this stitch.

Step 7

After the full smocking stitches are made, cut away the gathering stitches carefully with a seam ripper.

Use the steam setting on the iron to set the pleats. Donot press the iron on the pleats. It will flatten your pleats. Holding the iron just a little bit away with the steam setting on will make the pleats look good

Checkout this Pinterest board for some inspirations to make your own smocking patterns and designs

How to add smocked fabric to your clothes

There are two ways of doing this. You can make the smocking on a pre cut pattern piece or Do the smocking on the fabric and then cut the pattern. I would be doing the second method unless it is a square piece of pattern. 

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couching stitches