6 styles of ruffles – How to {Gather} fabric the easy way for beautiful frills

How to gather fabric for beautiful ruffles

Gathering is meant to ease a long piece of fabric onto a shorter one ; It is also supposed to provide fullness to the area it is attached.

But I do not think of the resultant ruffles in these practical terms I just described. These frills are too pretty to be so functional. Yet they are – isn’t ruffles wonderful.Can you even think of the practical uses of ruffles looking at the girl in the picture.

how to sew frills

Table of Contents

    How much cloth is needed to make ruffles

    Before making ruffles you will need to estimate how much fabric is needed to make it. The length of the fabric will depend on the fullness you need.


    For getting slight fullness you have to get atleast 1.5 times fabric . To get a moderate fullness you will need double the fabric. TO get very good fullness you need to take about 3 times the fabric width. You can increase the width by 4 times and more for added fullness

    Related post – Shirring fabric with elastic thread – a tutorial.


    Tips on making perfect ruffles 

    Always finish the fabric edges before gathering.

    The fabric edge finishing should be selected considering the appearance on the ruffles. A lettuce edge, with its frilly wavy appearance is a popular edge finish for knit fabrics.Fringed edges, hairline edges , satin stitches or faced edges are all frequently used. 

    Add the seam allowance for edge finishing and seam allowance for joining to the garment before cutting the fabric for ruffles. 

    6 types of ruffles

    There are 6 different styles of ruffles according to their placement.

    • Single edge Ruffles

    This is a single strip of fabric gathered along one edge and stitched to the edge of a garment. The raw edge of this strip is usually finishes with any of the fabric edge finishes.

    how to gather

    • Double edge ruffles

    This is a single strip of fabric gathered in the middle. The result is two edges of ruffles along the middle stitching line. you must have seen this ruffle in the back of a baby panties.


    Checkout this beautiful umbrella embellished all over with double edged ruffles


    • Double width ruffles

    This is a folded strip of cloth gathered in the middle ; Unlike the double edge ruffles with separate ruffles, this one has two edges of the strip of fabric together, or layered.


    • Water fall ruffles 

    This refers to those ruffles that we see along the necklines of off shoulder dresses. The waterfall effect along the neckline is created by gathering the neckline using an elastic thread along the seam of the neckline and extended facing.


    • Circular ruffles 

    These ruffles give a great flare when let down,without the bulk in the upper edge like in gathered ruffles. This is the kind of ruffles you see on peplums, flamenco dresses. This effect is achieved by making a fabric shape which resembles a doughnut.

    How to create a circular ruffle

    Step 1.
    Mark a circle on to your fabric with circumference equaling the edge of your fabric plus 1″ seam allowance.

    circular ruffles
    Step 2.
    Decide on how wide you want the ruffles.
    Mark that measure from the circumference of your inside circle

    You should also know that if there is a very big difference between the two circles there will be more flare.

    circular ruffles2
    Step 3.
    Cut out the outer circle and inner circle
    ie outside of the outer circle and inside of the inner circle should be discarded.A ring is formed

    circular ruffles3
    Step 4.
    Cut the ring open with a single cut. You have a ruffle strip you can sew on to the fabric edge

    circular ruffles4

    • Cascading ruffles 

    These ruffles ripple down the main fabric with a cascading effect hence the name. This ruffle is mostly seen attached to necklines and on the back of gowns. This is a type of circular ruffles, which is arranged to have a cascading effect.Checkout this necktie tutorial for girls for using a cascade ruffle as an accessory


    One cheat way to gather is to use an elastic sewn along the edge  as can be seen in the sewing pattern and tutorial to make a sundress.

    summer dress pattern

    summer dress pattern

    Steps to beautiful ruffles by EASY gathering of fabric

    • Step 1. Decide on the width and length of the finished ruffle. Width – Add the hem allowance and seam allowance.For double width ruffles double the fabric, and add the seam allowance twice. Length – As for length, Never skimp on this. If the fabric is not enough, the ruffle will look limp and really unattractive. An ideal formula is to take 2.5 times the measure of the edge for the ruffle strip. ie. if the hem of the dress is 30 inches multiply this by 2.5 to get the length of the ruffle strip. add 1 inch seam allowance.2 times also works ok.
    • Step 2. Prepare the ruffle strip -Finish the hem raw edge before joining the strip to the main fabric.A baby hem or narrow hem is ideal for finishing the edge of the ruffle. You can also do picot edging. Finish the raw edge of ruffle fabric strip and main fabric raw edge ( if you do not want a raveling mess )

    how to sew ruffles

    • Step 3. Divide the main fabric edge and the ruffle strip by 4, mark these measures with a scissors snip on the edges.
    • Step 4. How to baste and gather – Adjust the stitch length for basting stitches – Normally we sew with a stitch length of 2 – 2.5 that is set by default in your machine. To get basting stitches increase the stitch length to 5.
    • Step 5.Sew the first line of stitch 1/4 inch away from the fabric edge. Leave long thread tails on both ends of the fabric strip.I leave some 10 inch tail of the top thread and bobbin thread.

    how to make frills

    Sew another line of basting stitch 1/8 inch further from the first line parallel to it. I keep the edge of my zigzag foot on the first line of basting stitch. Then when I stitch the second stitch line is exactly 1/8 inch from the first line

    how to stitch ruffles by gathering

    {Double edge ruffle – For a double edge ruffle, mark the center line on the fabric strip. sew 1/8 inch to the either side of the center line with the basting stitch}. 

    • Step 6. Pull the bobbin threads to gather the strip. Do not use unnecessary force lest you break the thread. Distribute the gathers so that the folds are formed evenly. 

    how to make ruffles

    • Step 7. Join the strip and fabric in proportion and not by guesswork,to get the gathers evenly. Pin the fabric and gathered strip by the marks (snips) made earlier, so that they are gathered neatly and uniformly


    Use the Shirring foot to gather

    sewing machine feet

    A shirring  foot is used to gather fabric  without you going to all the trouble of gathering like described above or with the elastic thread in the bobbin. Half of this foot is raised off the feed dogs – this automatically creates a gather in the fabric as you sew. Increase the tension and stitch length when using this foot to gather. This foot is used mainly for gathering lightweight fabrics



    How to gather one of the two fabric layers with the gathering foot?

    Move the needle to the left position. Keep the two fabrics right sides together. Stitch the edges leaving a 1/2 inch seam allowance with the foot on. The bottom fabric layer will be gathered. You can change the fullness of the gathers by changing the stitch length. You can gather a single layer of fabric as well with this foot.

    I have read that a cording foot can be used to gather as well. Simply sew a cord using the cording foot with loose stitches. Then gather pulling the cord. easy peasy, right? Try it.

    Related posts

    how to sew seams   9 must know hand stitches - running stitch, catch stitch  how to sew hooks and eye


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