Hook is a twisted wire mostly seen with two round loops on either side and is used to fasten garments on plackets. This comes in many sizes depending on its usage and placement.The hook is usually used at necklines, waistbands, sleeve cuffs, lingerie, collars. They are placed at the top of the zipper so that the top edge do not gape.
There are many methods by which you can secure the simple hook to the other side of opening. You also need to know to secure the hook itself to the garment.This is helpful also in re-securing those hooks in your store bought clothes which fall off like hot pins after some washes.
How to sew the hooks
You can sew the hooks with small straight stitches on the round hoops on the hook. Couture sewing insists on prettiness on the inside of the garment as well, so instead of small straight stitches, small blanket stitches can be used to sew the loops of the hook,which makes the hook look like a flower on the inside ( if sewn properly)
Mark where you want the hook to be placed. Generally they are placed 1/8″ from the edge of the garment. The hook should not be visible from the outside. That is why you need to keep it slightly inside.
Knot the end of double strand of thread inserted to a needle.select a medium sized needle not too thin ( it will bend when you sew through the layers of fabric) and not too big ( you need to go through the small hoops) On the wrong side of the garment where you are going to stitch the hook anchor the thread with 1-2 small stitches.
Even before sewing the two wire loops you need to secure the head of the hook in place.
Stitch the head to the garment atleast 3 times continuously. You have to ensure that the needle is go to the right side of the fabric. You do not want the stitches to be seen on the right side.Also do not stitch too many times that you will have trouble using the hook.
Now sew the round loops securely with small blanket stitches. Go round the ring completely encircling it. Repeat with the other loop
Fastenings for hooks
Method 1. Hook and Metal eye
How to sew the metal eye for a hook
Usually the eye is placed about 1/8 inch from the edge of the opening on the WRONG SIDE OF THE GARMENT
Place the hook inside the garment on the opening, tip of the hook flush with the opening edges
Sew in place with small blanket stitches ( for a couture look) or small whip stitches.
Keep the eye on the inside of the garment on the other side of the opening.1/8 inch from the edge is good measure. – you can attach the eye to the hook to be accurate.
Ensure that the opening edges are exactly in the middle. Mark the place with a pen or a pin.
Now sew the loops of the eye with whip stitches or blanket stitches.
Ensure that the hook is straight and not tilted to any side.
Method 2. Hook and metal bar
A hook and bar is used when there is an overlap in the plackets / edges of the opening. Example is the waistband of a pant which uses the bar and hook.
How to sew the metal bar for Hook closures
Place the hook on the inside of the garment in the opening and sew in place
Mark where you want the bar to be placed. What I do is place a pin just like a bar and hook the hook to it. If the placement is correct mark there with chalk or disappearing pen and sew the bar there.
Method 3. Hook and thread bar
They are not as sturdy as the metal bars but they sure do look pretty. It is better if you wax the thread you are going to make the thread bars. On sari blouses this is the preferred method used
How to make a thread bar
Take a single stitch after anchoring the thread on the fabric with two or three small stitches first. This single stitch should be as wide as you want to slip the hook on it. The stitch should be loose.
I add at least two more straight stitches along the first one, so that the base of the thread bar is strong to bear the strain of pulling the hooks.
Now sew buttonhole stitches all along over these threads.Ensure that the needle is not piercing the fabric at all. You are just encircling the straight stitch with buttonhole stitches – follow the picture for the stitch.
Make the stitches till the whole thread is covered in buttonhole stitches.
Method 4. Eyelets
A handmade eyelet is a good option for you if you want the hook to lie flat on your fabric. As it is made by making a hole in your fabric not many use it as you cannot use your seam ripper to undo it if it is wrongly placed or something
Checkout the tutorial on How to make Handmade Eyelets
Method 5. Hook and easy cheat method
This is for all those lazy people who find making those thread bars or sewing countless blanket stitches on the eye boring.
For this method you have to keep the hook slightly inside from the inner edge, so that the hook is not visible from the outside at all.
The placket is sewn so that on the edge there are spaces left for the hooks to fasten .The hook is latched on the space left unstitched between the edge stitching.
Method 6 Fabric loops for big metal hooks
You can make fabric loops like the one below for the big hoops ( also called pant hooks) as well as sew metal bars.