Poplin is a soft, smooth long-lasting plain weave fabric. The term ‘Poplin’ also refers to the tight weave of yarns that make up the fabric. It is one of the best fabrics for making shirts and structured garments.
The crispness of poplin makes it ideal for button-up shirts, dresses, and uniforms. Let’s explore different types of poplin and how to sew with them!.
The main types of poplins are cotton poplin and poly poplin, as in polyester poplin. For breathable clothes (for kids clothes, every day shirts) I would go for cotton poplin, It is soft and classy. But if you want a low maintainence and wrinklefree option, look for polyester poplin(For work-wear, table clothes, costumes). Rayon poplin is a good choice for flowy gowns.
Watch the video to see the texture of poplin:
I know poplin as a shirt fabric ; the crisp but smooth and polished look makes it a very popular shirt making material.
| Property | Features of poplin for sewing clothes |
|---|---|
| Fabric composition | Usually made from cotton fibers, but can include other fibers and blends. |
| Weave | Plain weave with crosswise ribs for texture. |
| Feel and texture | Smooth, crisp |
| Breathability | Highly breathable, ideal for warm weather. Comfortable to wear due to breathability. |
| Wrinkle Resistance | Resistant to wrinkles, holds its shape well. |
| Drape | Moderate drape, holds structure. |
| Looks | Can have a slight sheen but generally matte. |
| Fabric weight | Medium weight |
| Durability | Durable and long-lasting with proper care. |
| Shrinkage | Minimal shrinkage with proper washing. |
Different types & best uses in sewing
If you have thought of poplin only as cotton, no, poplin is not cotton; It is available in kinds of textile fibers. The different types of poplin available are Cotton Poplin, silk poplin, polyester poplin, and lycra stretch poplin.
Cotton poplin
Cotton poplin is a cotton fabric in plain weave. It comes in different weights – from thin, lightweight fabric to heavyweight fabric. A lot of ready made shirts are made in this material. A cotton poplin is also great to make pajama’s and summer dresses.
The characteristics of cotton poplin are its smooth texture, crisp look, breathability, wrinkle resistance, and durability. It is also available in a wide variety of prints and patterns.
Projects suitable for cotton poplin
Cotton poplin is used extensively in quilting and crafting. They are also used for lining.
It is a durable, long-lasting fabric. The poplin fabric takes color very well and is available in beautiful prints. It may be bleached, dyed or printed. Shirting weight Cotton poplin is a very good fabric for all your summer wear clothes.
Poly-poplin
When poplin is mixed with polyester elements (Polycotton poplin), the fabric is wrinkle-resistant and colorfast. The drape of the fabric is also greatly increased.
I use polyester poplin fabric as a lining because it is cheap and lightweight.
It is also used to make uniform shirts. Polyester poplin resists wrinkles and stains better than cotton, which is why it’s commonly used for uniforms that require low maintenance. It is also used in home decor as bed linen, table clothes etc.
Blended poplin
Stretch poplin is soft, smooth cotton combined with a bit of spandex to make this shirting weight comfortable.
Nowadays, man-made fabrics are blended with poplin to create better fabrics with combined qualities that rival individual fabric properties.
Synthetic poplin or blended poplin tends to pill a lot.
Projects suitable for poplin
Poplin is the most commonly used fabric in shirting and outerwear jackets. Because of its even weave, this fabric does not have excessive luster or shininess and is very suitable for shirting. The soft and smooth texture of the poplin cloth makes it very comfortable.
Which type of poplin is best for summer wear?
A Cotton poplin shirt is great under a suit, especially during summer, as it is thin. It is suitable for both formal and casual dressing, though mostly suitable for casual shirts.
Because of its breathable quality, this fabric is used much to make sportswear including jackets. The breathable quality of this fabric also makes it very suitable for making summer clothes.
Heavier poplin which is water resistant can be used for upholstery works, bedding, table linen, and other home decorations.
Broadcloth and poplin are usually said in the same breath. Many people consider them the same. There are some noticeable differences – broadcloth is more light weight and has a more drapey flow. It also has a more matte texture compared to poplin. Poplin has a ribbed weave which is not there in broadcloth.
Sewing with poplin
✔️Best Needle: Universal size 11
✔️Stitch length : 2.5 mm
✔️Recommended threads for sewing : Cotton, cotton/polyester, All polyester or silk threads
✔️Seams: Plain, French, or bound
✔️Ironing Tip: Avoid starch; press with medium heat
✔️Interfacing : Self fabric or fusible tricot interfacing
I find poplin easy to sew because of its even weave, and I recommend using a size 11 needle for best results along with fusible tricot interfacing. The best stitches, and techniques include using plain seams, as well as fell seams (for shirt seams). For more sophisticated inner finishes you can use French seams and bound seams.
The longevity of poplin makes it a very popular fabric to sew workwear and uniforms. Embroidering on poplin fabric works great because of its weave. Many poplin shirts are embellished with logos/monograms embroidered on them.
Ironing poplin fabric is a breeze. You can do it easily, and the wrinkle will disappear like magic. Starching is not suitable for poplin, so don’t even bother.
Problems in sewing with poplin fabric
If you are considering a very drapey fabric, poplin may not be the best bet. It is more crisp than drapey because of its tight weave. It is best to sew fitted garments. But when compared to cotton twill, it drapes better.
Poplin is considered to be a very thin fabric. In fact, on its own, it may be too thin and may need a lining if used for making dresses for women. For shirts, it is ideal.
Another problem with thin and inexpensive poplin (also plain material) is that it will show wrinkles.
Related posts : English Fabric Dictionary. ; List of shirt making fabrics.
