How to stitch Salwar Kameez Pants – the simple and easy way.
If you have made the paper pattern as per the method explained in the DIY Salwar kameez pants pattern tutorial, you just have to keep the pattern on to the fabric and cut it out. Or here I am giving all the details about marking the pants pattern onto the fabric directly and sewing it. If you like other casual pants you may as well checkout the tutorial for pyjama pants , drawstring lounge pants and wrap pants ( yoga pants and samurai pants)
You need atleast 2.10 meters of cloth for sewing salwar kameez pants. That is what I need and I am 5′ 2″. The way to calculate yardage is to double the length needed + add a few inches like 5″.
When laying out to cut the fabric, Remember that for the legs part you have four layers of cloth and for the waist part two layers of cloth. So both are cut differently. First we will cut for the legs piece.
Fold the cloth you have widthwise once ( a-b in the diagram) and cut through the line. Now fold the two pieces of cloth ( Your two pant legs ) lengthwise i.e vertically so that you have a center fold on one edge. ( c-d in the diagram)
You may want to do some embroidery on the pants . You will have to do this after you mark the pattern and preferably before you cut it out. You can do any of the fabric embellishing techniques described here or if you know to do embroidery do some small motifs near the bottom edge or on the lower portion of the leg like this
Mark top portion as half of hip round. or you can mark as follows ( Look at the diagram below)
For below 34 inches half of hip round
For 34 inches to 42 inches – 18 inches
For above 42 inches – 20-22 inches
Mark the length as Full length you need for the salwar pants minus 5 inch.
Crotch line on the other side ( cut edge) is marked from top as 1/6 of hip round + 1″
For easy reference
if your hip is
- 34″ mark this as 6 1/2″
- 35″ mark this as 6 3/4″
- 36 ” mark this as 7″
- 37″ mark this as 7 1/4″
- 38″ mark this as 71/4″
- 39″ mark this as 7 1/4″
- 40″ mark this as 7 1/2″
- 41″ mark this as 73/4″
- 42″ mark this as 8″
Mark the bottom edge as 6 -7″ from the fold ( This is depending on the round you want for the pants flair. I usually want a 13″ pant flair for simple salwar pants )
Join the crotch line to the bottom flair. Add I” seam allowance.
Cut it out. Now you get two legs of pants.
Prepare the stiffening for the bottom of the pants. I definitely interface this area. Cut out an interfacing piece of 13 -14″ with width of 1″. Press this interfacing onto a cloth strip of 13″ – 14″ length and width 1 1/2″. Press this onto the middle so that there is a seam allowance of 1/4 inch on both sides.( look at the picture below)
Keep this cloth , interfacing facing you, to the pant piece right side facing you. ( Right sides of these clothes should be together)
Stitch this piece to the pants. You will be sewing along the 1/4″ seam allowance and along the interfacing edge ; donot stitch over the interfacing strip.
Turn this stitched piece to the other side of pants. Fold the raw edge inside and stitch along the edge. You can now sew parellel lines of straight stitch or decorative stitches like wavy lines across the interfacing piece. I simple make two parellel straight stitching lines. Here I haven’t done any – just the joining stitch.Do this for for the pant pieces.
Your bottom edge of the pants is finished.
Starting from the bottom join the pant legs one after the other. Stop when you reach the crotch line.You will be joining the crotch line of the pants to each other.
Turn the pants right side out. Join the two pants together by Keeping the crotch lines on top of the other on the inside. Remember to reinforce all the stitching by double stitching, especially the crotch line.
Leg part of the pants is ready.
To make the waist part of the salwar kameez pants you need another cloth which is wide by atleast double your hip round + 10 inch. Keep it on fold and mark as in the diagram below
Sew the fabric edges together making a tube. Remember to stop stitching atleast 3 1/2 inch from one edge.
Press the seam open on the inside of the tube.
Press the raw edges of the seam allowance inside like below
Stitch along the edges
Turn the upper edge atleast 1 1/2 inches inside for the casing for waist ties. Stitch along the edge.
Now you have to adjust the excess fabric in the leg piece to fit the waist piece.Make notches at sides and center back and front of the pant piece and waist pieces. These should be matched and pinned.
Turn the leg piece inside out. Insert the waist piece so that right sides of both the pieces are together . Pin along the raw edge making sure that notches you have made are aligned . Where there is excess fabric make pleats like below. Stitch in place.
Finish the raw fabric edges with a serger, overcast or zig zag stitches. You may also use the pinking shears, though if it is going to be washed a lot this is not a good idea. Check out the various fabric edge options available.
You need to make waist ties for this pants; Of course you can use the ready made ones but I like to make them for myself. Use this tutorial to make fabric straps to make these ties. Basically you take a strip of fabric about 1 inch wide, fold the raw edges inside and stitch along the edges to make these ties. You need a length of your wiast round and about 20 inches overhang.
Tada ! Your salwar pants is ready. Make this is in as many colours and fabrics as you could get your hands on, like I do. A girl needs her pants.
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