Being short is an inconvenience when getting the right length of jeans. All the jeans I buy have some extra length. The extra length almost always ends under my heels, gathering all the dirt underfoot or bunched up near the ankle, looking horrible.
To shorten your too long jeans, the options are – you can cut off the hem, shorten the jeans, and sew the hem a certain way OR hem it a certain way keeping the original characteristic jeans hem intact.
Note : Do not forget to wash your jeans at least two times before altering them. For all you know, it might shrink enough to fit you by those washes.
Also, wear your daily use heels when measuring – you wouldn’t want a too short jeans. A little too long is any day better than a little too short.
What do you need to have to hem jeans ?
- A tape measure
- For the first method, Matching thread (not blue, but matching the other topstitching thread in your jeans. An orange color thread seen on commercial jeans ); For the Second method, a thread matching the colour of your jeans would do.
- Not all Sewing machine needles will sew through thick fabric; Get needles called denim needles or use leather sewing needles for this; A size 14 machine needle will sew through thick layers. Jeans needles are size 16.
- A pair of jeans you always wanted to wear, but for the bunching up near the ankles, over the shoes.
- A sewing machine with stitch length adjusted to a little longer than what you normally sew with. Using the free arm of the machine is ideal as you can insert the leg and circulate it around as you sew.
- Measure correctly : Make the person stand in front of you barefoot wearing the jeans when measuring.
- You need to be very careful with tapered jeans with spandex in them (Read stretch jeans). It is a different animal. The hem will be narrower than your leg, and its circumference will be smaller. When you stretch it and sew it back, it will look all wrinkled. Beware when you have to cut it a lot shorter.
My Favourite method of keeping the original hem and cutting off the extra length
Jeans are hemstitched with special machines and most look very distinctive with their slightly distressed look. You may not want to lose this special hem.
But, you can hem your jeans, ensuring that this hem is retained.
Cut off the extra at the hem. Keep the original hem aside with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.
Bring the edge of the jeans hem to the outside (to the rightside of the jeans)
and stitch in place along the edge.
Trim the seam allowance close to the stitching line.
Keep the cut out original hem along the stitched edge and sew them together.
A new hem to your jeans
You need a jeans needle to sew the hem of the jeans comfortably. Your ordinary needle may not be able to sew up all those folded edges of the thick denim.
Measure the height you need for your jeans -for that, you had better wear and get someone to mark the correct height with a pin. Or you can take the measure of good pants you already own. You will need to add a seam allowance of 1 inch to this measure for folding under.
Take off the jeans and press the hemline (without the seam allowance) on both legs. Make sure that the length is even on both legs.
Mark the seam allowance 1 inch from the hemline and cut all around for both the legs
On each of the legs, make 2 small cuts of 1/2 inch long , 1/4 inch to either sides of the pant side seams. Total 4 cuts for each pant leg.
This is to ease the width of the pant leg to the new hemline.
Now turn under the seam allowance inside all except the side seam piece. Let it stick out.
Start stitching the hem from the inside of the pant leg, from the side of a side seam, till you reach the next side seam.
Adjust the side seam so that the folded edge is over the cut edge. Sew over it till the next side seam.
Make the same adjustment there too. After sewing the whole hem, cut off the part sticking out. (The reason I am not folding this area is obvious – it is super thick and bulky and very very frustrating to sew over )
You have the new hem ready.
Another Method for keeping the original hem.
Wear the jeans and stand straight. You need help if you are going to decide on the correct length. Decide on the hemline.
Calculate how much you need off your jeans to be the correct length. Divide this measurement by two. Mark the hemline and the halfway mark on the wrong side, above the original hem.
Fold by the center mark at C .
You need to stitch near the hem catching the two layers at A & B. Start stitching just under the original hem’s edge. You should stop at the thick side seams and then hand-stitch that part if you do not have a denim needle.
You can hem this part entirely using hand stitching also. Most of the time, if I am altering kids’ jeans, I will hand stitch the hem. Mainly because they need the stitches to be taken off after a year or so, and hand stitches are very easy to rip off with a seam ripper (easier than machine stitches, anyways – do not ask me how I know ).
Also the kid’s jeans legs are small and need only this many stitches. I would be using a back stitch to sew the hem. Refer this post on the “Different kinds of stitches with pictures and names” to learn about this stitch.
After the plain seam, 1/4 inch from this, sew a zig-zag stitching line.
You can cut off beyond this line. Or you can also keep the fold inside without cutting it off. Finish with a serger.
Other methods
Add a Cuff
Cut off the extra length and add a cuff.
Check out this tutorial to add a normal cuff to your pants. Or you can add the cuff as in the picture below – adding a lining inside and then turning it out to the front.
Leave it raw
A raw hem jeans has a hemline that is left as it is, with the cut edge exposed and frayed. It is easy to make but you can make it in different variations. Checkout this tutorial for raw hem jeans to know more.
A problem that make me hesitate before taking on the daunting task of changing the hem of my too-long jeans is what happens when I sew it. The denim is so thick that sewing over the side seams caused many swear words, dropped stitches, and sometimes needles breaking in beween.
If you have these issues, Checkout tips on these posts on sewing denim and sewing thick fabrics on a normal sewing machine.
