My French curve is not my most-used drafting tool, but it is an extremely helpful one. Did you know that a French curve is composed of many different curved segments, each with its own radius? It is designed to help one draw non-circular smooth curves.
It is as favorite edge shaping tool with neat curved edges that help in drawing smooth, flowing lines. Unlike straight rulers, French curves help in shaping curved patterns accurately, ensuring that shape of your patterns fits the human body’s natural contours.
Uses of french curve in drafting
With a french curve you can draw smooth, flowing curves with varying degrees of curvature. This makes it ideal for pattern-making, fashion design, and technical drawing. Each section of the French curve has a different curvature (some tighter, some more gradual). By aligning the right segment with your pattern lines, you can create correct and accurate transitions in armholes, necklines, and hip curves.
In drawing Armholes and Sleeves: When you draw the armhole curves with the french curve it results in a better fit.
Checkout this video on how to draft armholes with the french curve.
Drawing Necklines: You can create a variety of balanced and professional-looking neck shapes with the help of a french curve
Hip and Waist Curves: These are best drawn with those long marking rulers, like the hip curve on your pants, skirts, and dress seams, but french curve can also be used.
Drawing Princess Seams and Contour Lines: You have to draw these with french curve if you want contoured shape.
Using the holes on the french curve:
You may see one or more holes on the french curve. These holes allow you to place a pencil or marking tool inside them to act as a pivot while adjusting the curve. If you’re blending two curves (e.g., an armhole into a sleeve cap), placing a pencil tip or pin through a hole can act as a pivot, helping you rotate the French curve smoothly for a seamless transition.
Different French curves
One french curve I have has small measuring markings for precise adjustments. But another one has no marking whatsoever.
And another one is a small mini-french curve, a compact version useful for intricate markings. For eg. marking the small curves of a dart.
Then there are various design templates with curves similar to the french curve. If you cannot find your french curve, in a pinch, you can use these.
Usually they are made of transparent plastic, but they can also be made of aterials metal, or wood.
How to Use a French Curve in Pattern Drafting
- Drafting Armholes with a French Curve
Place the curve’s edge along the shoulder seam and side seam of your bodice block.
Adjust the curve to create a smooth transition without sharp angles.
Ensure symmetry by flipping the French curve and mirroring the shape on the opposite side.
- Shaping a Perfect Neckline
Align the curve with the front or back neckline based on your design.
Adjust for depth or width as necessary while maintaining a smooth flow.
Use a light pencil stroke before finalizing with a darker line or marker.
- Creating hip and waist curves
Position the French curve between the waist and hip points on a skirt or pant pattern.
Adjust the curve to reflect body proportions for comfort and fit.
Blend lines to ensure they transition smoothly into straight sections.
- Princess Seams and Contour Lines
Use the French curve to shape the bust and waist areas.
Make slight adjustments for dart placements and garment ease.
Test the pattern by tracing and checking for a natural fit.
5. Alterations
If you’ve drafted a blouse pattern, but the armhole is too tight, and you found this out at the muslin stage, you can redraw the armhole using the french curve, with an extension. Blend the new line smoothly into the side seam.
Retrace the sleeve cap to match the updated armhole shape.
Aside: For some reason, I have articles in this website mentioning ‘French’ than any other country in the world—whether it’s the French curves, French seams, French knots, or words capturing French elegance in fashion! Does it have anything to do with the undeniable aesthetics of the people there?
Checkout these options if you want to buy a french curve:
Disclaimer : When you buy one of these products, I may get a small commission, but it will be at no extra cost to you.
