A line (yoke) skirt
Gathered skirts are great ofcourse, very convenient, most easy to sew and nothing to say about the ease of pulling it on and off with its elastic waistband but a girl needs a flattering skirt at times . What could be more flattering than an A-line skirt.
What is an A-line skirt ?
Basically a skirt which slides over the hip from a fitting waist and flares to the hem. A line skirt is that versatile skirt which will look good on you whatever your bodyshape is. It flatters an Apple bodyshape – Contradictorily it suits the big hips of a pear shape too
Actually most of the skirts fall into the A line shape – Checkout this post on the 17 different types of skirts you can have – most of them have an A shape. The true A line skirt comes without any pleats or tucks – it fits the waist and hips and gently widens to the hem. You can make the A line skirt in any length you want. Decide on a length which suits you and look out for the fabric. Make a flattering wardrobe staple which you can wear for a long long time
A line skirt ( with yoke) Sewing Pattern
Preshrink the fabric first. This is necessary if you donot want a skirt which get too small after the first wash. Most fabric shrink and especially cotton/ cotton mix.
To make the yoke piece fold the main fabric and facing pieces twice. ie you will be having 8 layers of fabric – 2 for front and back yokes of main fabric and 2 for front and back yokes of facing fabric. If possible cut fabric on the bias for some stretch. Mark as per the diagram
- A-D = Waist round / 4 + 3/4″ ( 1/2 ” seam allowance & 1/4 inch ease)
- B-F = Hip round / 4 + 1″
- A-B =11″
- A-C = 1/2 “
- F-E = 1″
To make the skirt piece you need 2 pieces ( Front & Back)folded by half. Mark as per the diagram given
- A-B = (Length of skirt needed + 1.5″) – 10″ ( this is the yoke length which is subtracted)
- A-C = 1/2″
- A-D = Hip round /4 + 1″
- G-I = 2″ ( This is for an above knee length skirt – for a longer skirt you may need more flair)
- K-I – 1″
Materials needed to sew this skirt
About 1.5 meters of fabric ( If you are making a medium length skirt)
9 inch zipper
2 piece of the back yoke ( one for outer fabric and one for yoke)
2 piece of the front yoke ( one for outer fabric and one for yoke)
2 Skirt pieces
Interfacing for yoke piece (optional)
If you want an extra strength to the yoke you may interface the yoke piece. To do this cut the interfacing the same as the yoke pieces and adhere to the back of the facing piece with a hot iron
Cut the pattern pieces . Interface the yoke pieces if you want to ( especially if you want to do some embroidery or sequin work).
Sew the yoke
Keep the two outer fabric yoke pieces ( front & back) right sides together. Pin them together at the side seams. Mark the length of the zipper (7 inches ) on one side .
Sew side seams of the outer ( main) yoke pieces.
Sew basting stitch where you will be joining the zipper. After that continue with regular stitches. Make a regular stitch on the other side seam.(Checkout the post of attaching a zipper for more details)
Sew facing pieces – Mark the zipper length on the facing pieces as we did on the main yoke pieces. Sew the facing also rightsides together with regular stitches except where we have marked 7 inch for zipper opening ( we need this opening so that zipper on the main yoke will have an opening on the facing also)
For zipper opening Mark 7 inch from the top; make basting stitches. Sew the rest of the seam with a regular stitch.
Then press the seam allowance open on the wrong side (where you have made the basting stitches and sew the seams) ; Stitch them in place like you would do for a plain seam with a double top stitch as explained in the post on different types of seams
Now you have two tubes of yokes ( one main fabric & one facing ). If you want to do some embroidery work on the main fabric this is the last chance to do it neatly. If you wait till the whole skirt is completed the threads and knots will be visible on the inner side of the skirt. If you do the work now all the ugly underbelly of your work will be hidden below
Keep the zipper face down on the seam, aligning the zipper teeth with the seamline
Attach zipper foot on your machine
Sew the zipper to the seam on either side of the zipper teeth.
Make back stitches at the start and the end
Checkout the post on zipper application for more details
Join the two tube pieces together rightside together at the top edge.
Turn the skirt right side out.
Open the basting stitches of the facing and the main fabric ( zipper opening) with a seam ripper.
Sew the facing opening to the zipper sides with a hand sewing needle and thread. This will keep the facing from getting in between zipper teeth.
Join the sides of the skirt pieces keeping them right sides together ; you have a skirt tube now.
Now you have to join the yoke and skirt tubes
Pin the skirt side seam right sides together, aligning all the seams ( ensure that seams match at all points)
Sew it together with a 1/2 inch seam allowance
Attach a hook at the top of the zipper and a thread bar if you want to, along with a projecting thread bar. Checkout the tutorial for attaching hooks and sewing the bars here
Do Finish the fabric edges inside the garment as you sew with a zig zag finish or serger. Makes for a better garment inside as well as outside.