A bodice is the foundational template for making a garment you wear on your torso – the garment which you wear on the upper part of the body. The method I have described here is a very simple bodice pattern which you can draft and sew with the bare minimum sewing knowledge – one which gives you a custom fit, based on your body measurements.
You can experiment with this, add any fabric manipulations any type of sleeves (draft different types of sleeves), change necklines (Draft different neckline) or add any embellishment to make it your own. This is where everything starts.
How to draft a Bodice pattern
You can either make the sewing pattern on a paper or draw directly on the cloth with chalk. Start by marking on paper assuming the line A-B is folded cloth . If you are directly marking on the cloth take the two front and back pieces and fold in half and take the folded side as AB in the diagram and start marking
Measurements You Need TO MAKE THE BODICE PATTERN
Take all measurements in inches.
Desired length → shoulder to where you want the bodice to end (add 2” for hem)
Waist length → shoulder (neck point) to waist
Shoulder → neck to shoulder tip
Bust → fullest part
Waist → natural waist
Hip → fullest part (measure loosely)
Sleeve length (optional)
Sleeve round (optional)
Neck depth → front & back
Take all of your measurements with the same standard ruler. Ensure that the measurements on your ruler is correct. Stand straight, don’t suck in. Bad measurements = bad fit.
If you are new to sewing checkout this post with many tutorials on tips on learning to sew ; Checkout this detailed post on taking the basic body measurements . If you would like to know more about reading a tape measure properly checkout this post.
Before cutting, do this:
Mark which piece is front and which is back
Label line AC as your centre front (CF) or centre back (CB)
This is your fold line — place it on fold of fabric when cutting
Draw a grainline parallel to this line
Step 1: Mark the Vertical Length
Enter your measurements below to get the exact values you need to make your bodice
Bodice Block Calculator
Enter your measurements (in inches):
Now start marking. Start with your base line – AC – the center fold line.
A–C = full length (shoulder to hip or desired length) + 2”
If you don’t want to measure everything, you can use the standard measurement:
Shoulder to bust = 10”
Bust to waist = 6”
Waist to hip = 8”
But if you have your own measurements, always use those.
Points L and D are marked using the calculated waist and hip widths
Step 2: Mark the Main Widths
This is where most people go wrong — keep it consistent.
Bust line = Bust ÷ 4 + ½” ease
Waist line = Waist ÷ 4 + 1” ease
Hip line = Hip ÷ 4 + 1” ease
Don’t randomly add extra inches everywhere — that’s how garments turn baggy.
Step 3: Neck and Shoulder
Neck width (A–E) = 3” minimum
Neck depth → mark as you like (front deeper, back shallow – usually back is marked 1.5″)
For shoulder:
A–F = ½ shoulder
From F, go down ¾”–1” → this is your shoulder slope. Some people give a 1.5″ slope.
Join neck to shoulder.
This slope matters more than people think — it affects the entire fit.
Step 4: Armhole (Armscye)
Use this formula:
Armhole depth = Bust ÷ 8 (+ 2” to 3” as ease)
Smaller value of ease will give you a more fitted armscye and a larger ease will give you more comfort – for casual blouses go easier.
Then:
Draw a smooth curve from shoulder to bust line
Slightly curve inward (don’t make it too tight)
A french curve can be used to shape your armhole line.
Watch this video for learning how to draft this part of the bodice:
Step 5: Bust Line & Side Seam
Mark bust width using your calculation
Drop a straight line down to waist and hip
This becomes your side seam guide.
Step 6: Dart (THIS is the key step)
If your bodice doesn’t fit well, it’s usually the dart.
First calculate dart intake:
(Bust − Waist) ÷ 4
This is how much shaping you need per side.
Front Dart
Mark bust point (apex)
Find center line:
½ of bust point to bust point distance
Draw dart:
Width = your calculated dart intake
Length = stop 1–1.5” before bust point
Never let the dart touch the bust point — that’s a beginner mistake. If you mark dart on the bust point your bodice will look awkwardly pointy and a no-no.
Back Dart
Start from waist
Align roughly with front dart position
Dart ends 2–3” above hip
Step 7: Shape the Armhole
Refine your curve
Slight inward shaping at bust line
Smooth transition (no sharp angles)
This is where your bodice starts looking “professional”
Final Checks (Don’t Skip This)
Before cutting fabric:
Check bust, waist, hip widths
Make sure both sides are symmetrical
Recheck dart width
Smooth all curves
I would use a curved ruler to give the hipline a nice curved shape.
You can draft different styles of bodices with some variations in necklines, sleeves, length etc.
Related posts: Tools for marking the pattern ; Tools for measuring the body proportions ; Tools needed for sewists
Back armhole – Mark a line F down to meet the chest line. ( measure the distance and divide by two) . Mark the point as X . Make a curved shape of the armhole meeting these points – this is the back sleeve line.
To mark the front sleeve line Mark from the line to the inside 3/4 inch for adults and 1/2 inch for kids. Using a french curve mark a curved line for your front armhole line.
Give the neckline you want – refer here for different necklines
Make sleeves as per the instructions here and you are good to go sewing.Checkout the post on different sleeve types for your options
Ease – I have added 2 inch ease to the body measurements . You can alter this to your preference as per the standard chart of ease given below
What I do when making this pattern to sew tops is to draw directly on to the cloth with chalk. Both the front piece and the back piece will be kept folded . I will draw the pattern on the top piece ( which finally will turn out to be the front piece), cut out the back sleeve line and neck, remove the back piece ( which is the back piece now) , then continue cutting the front sleeve line and neckline on the remaining cloth with the marking lines already there. This way, no need to mark the front and back bodices seperately .Cut the two pattern pieces and makes sure that the lines drawn are all cut away.
The front and back joined together
Checkout this tutorial to see how to make facings for the necklines for a clean and neat finish
Do the same for the back neck and front neck.Join the shoulder seams .
Checkout the different types of seams you can use in your bodice. Join the sleeves. You can add this to a skirt to make a dress or adopt different design features to make it your own.
I decided to add this bodice to a paneled skirt to make a long gown.
If you would rather make a more casual top with a looser fit along the body you can make the bodice as per the pattern below
A-C = Length of the top
A-B = 3 1/2″
A-G = 8 1/4″
H-J = A-G
H-I = 3/4″
D-E = 3″ (OR 4″)
A-H = 1/2 of shoulder point to shoulder point + 1/4″
G-F = 1/4 of Bust round + 3/4″
E-L = 1/4 of Hip round + 2 “
K-J = 1/2 of F-J
If you want a more fitting pattern with a close body fit you can add darts – this will ensure that the bodice fits the contours of your body. Check out this post on adding darts to your sewing patterns
The sewing tutorial to make an A-line dress has the method to sew the bodice explained in a different way than given below .
Sewing a basic bodice block for kids
You can make a similar bodice block for kids . Checkout the post on sewing for children and a ready reckoner of body measurements here.
Happy sewing
Related posts :More Free sewing patterns ; Crossover top sewing tutorial
Hi Sarina, This is great! I have been looking for a sloper like this for ages!!
I have one question, which is: I notice in your finished garments you do not press your seams. I was wondering if there is a reason for that – perhaps that the synthetic fibers would melt with the iron?
Thanks again for helping us out 🙂
I wish I could see a picture of the top on someone. Also, would love to know how to put a cape covering on a blouse or separate. I have a group of larger gals that are in a bridesmaid group and they need something flattering for the top since the color is not going to be black.
U r doing a grt job helping us learn
Is there any criteria for shoulder slopping
Thank you very much, it will be so helpful to me because I’m new in sewing and learn it myself on Internet no one is teaching me
Very helpful and reliable to a newly sewing student like me.
Thanks so much for the tutorials
I’m Here because of my T.L.E module
Hi there if you’re grade 10, wish u luck at making progress.
Thank you so much my sewing knowledge has increased am better now.
Re: Bodice drafting instructions. Such a GREAT resource! I only wish there was a printable version for those of us with Internet service issues or “oldies” who find screens hard on the eyes. Is there one and I just haven’t found it? When I try to “send to printer” from the website, the ads will place randomly and cover the information. Tried selecting and then “copy & paste” into a note taking iPad app (from which I can print) but only the text shows up. I’m going to use a bunch of screen shots but that makes for a much bigger file and when I print, will waste ink (being photos). I’d really prefer to spend my time sewing than fighting with technology.
Hi Kris
I am sorry I have no simple solution to your question. What you can do is may be paste the whole thing in a word document on google drive or something and then print – though I would prefer that you come and visit the website 🙂 Bestwishes
It’s interesting
This….THIS is what I have been looking for for TWO years….all this info right on this page…. thank you SO much!! 😀 xxx
Very informing site. Want to know more about sewing
In the very first draft, should’nt A-E be 7.5 ” as per your table or as per body measurement PLUS the shoulder slope of 1″ or 1.5″? Can you please clarify?
Love everything on this site very helpfull
Thank you Nabakka. Glad you found the site helpful
Thank You Very Much For This.
My Question Is: What Does Mean By 3/4 Inch. It’s 3 Inch Half Of What, This Is Whats Confusing Me.
“3/4 Inch” would mean three quarters of an inch. Or 0.75 inch. or 75% of an inch.
Thank you! I have a wonderful dress for dancing but the bodice was fitted to an alien species. Now I can replace it!
Thanks slot, this is helpful
Nice one, keep it up.
Learning to make a dress
love the site and want to know more about making a dress
I was looking for how to take body measurements
I love this site. Please keep the good work up .
Your post has being helpful to me thumbs up, thank you
I just went through your demonstrations. It’s very helpful, I will start the tutorials early in the morning. Thanks a lot
Thank you and I really love fashion design
Oky ..I like your tutorials look interesting
your sawing tutorials looks interesting.shall try .thanks a lot.
Thanks Amita
Wow God bless you for this simple explaination
Thanks Ijeoma
Thanks
Hi looking for basic top pattern with short sleeves
Hi
I want to learn to sew my own clothes. Your tutorial is simply and easy to follow
Hi
Do you have any books published with all contents from sewguide?
Hi Premalatha
No; This is the book : ) Hope you will come back and refer whenever you want.
Fantastic! God bless you.
Thank you for your tutorials. Do I still need to add seam allowance after drafting the pattern or it is already included?
From another of your posts: Could you please explain cutting on a ‘different bias’ when making your own bias tape? Do you mean make the bias angle slightly more, or less, than 45 degrees? Thanks.
Wonderful directions! Thank you! How would one go about sewing two of these tops together to make it reversible? Thanks
Good morning ma, thank you the teaching. Please I will like to have a copy of the body basic pattern, thanks you.
Hello Sarina, thank you so much! I just checked it and you are absolutely right. I measured the AF line incorrectly – across the chest including the whole shoulders 🙂 Now I know how to fix it and I also learned what happens when the line is cut longer. The other article you refer me to is also great and very helpful. Thanks!
Hi, I really love your website with all your helpful tips. Thanks to it maybe I will finally learn to properly sew. However, trying to sew this bodice, I ended up with a nice bodice which had kind of sleeves and pulled the fabric a bit from underarm to shoulders. Is this how it should look or did I measure something wrong? On your picture of your golden bodice the shoulder straps are narrow and you added the sleeves afterwards. My shoulder straps are wider than yours including the sleeve, even though I did not add any sleeves. Is this fabric excess there on purpose or do you have any ideas what I did wrong?
Hi Lucia
Did you measure the shoulders correctly- if that is excess the shoulders will project out. I suppose that is your problem.Maybe you can follow this post for a separate view of the bodices https://sewguide.com/sundress-sewing-pattern/