How to sew a SHIRT COLLAR :Sewing tutorial

How to sew a Shirt Collar

This post is a step by step tutorial to sew a shirt collar properly.

Study the terminology used for a shirt collar and the different types of shirt collars you can sew here.

shirt collar

Interfacing – There is no place where Interfacing is more needed than a shirt collar. 

The interfacing is necessarily attached to the under collar fabric and then cut the pattern around. You can apply interfacing to the top collar piece also, for the best results. 

A lightweight fusible interfacing is used. You can also use two types of interfacing – medium-weight interfacing on the upper collar and a softer interfacing on the undercollar.

You need 2 collar-leaf pieces and 2 collar stand pieces for the shirt collar.

How to sew a Shirt Collar


Step 1. Prepare bodice

To attach a collar you need a bodice with a small neckline and an opening – preferably with a button placket.

Staystitch the neckline to avoid it stretching.

Shirt Collar sewing tutorial

Step 2. Cut interfacing collar pieces

Draft the patterns for the collar as per the pattern given below with your measurement.

pattern for collar leaf of shirt collar
Pattern for the collar leaf for the shirt collar
Pattern for the band of the shirt collar

Cut these out from interfacing – one of each.

Cut the shirt collar pieces from interfacing
Cut the shirt collar pieces as per the pattern from interfacing

Step 3. Attach interfacing to top collar piece

Attach the interfacing for the collar your fabric – you will need to cut the fabric with 1/4 inches extra all around – so take  fabric accordingly.

cut collar pieces
Attach interfacing to one of the collar fabric – under collar.

I have read in sewing books that if you add a small triangular piece of fusible interfacing at the corner point of the upper collar (extra on top of the regular interfacing) this will weigh the points and keep the collar in shape. This is optional.

Step 4. Cut collar fabric with 1/4 inch extra 

cut shirt collar pieces
Cut shirt collar top pieces with 1/4 inches extra all around

You need to cut 2 pieces for the collar. Only one will have the interfacing attached.

2 top shirt collar pieces

Step 5. Attach interfacing of the stand/band collar to fabric for undercollar 

Attach stand collar to interfacing
Attach stand collar interfacing to back of fabric

Cut it out with 1/4 inch extra all around.

Attach interfacing to fabric for collar
Cut with 1/4 inch extra all around

Step 6. For the top collar of stand add 1/4 inch extra

For the next piece you have to trace the first piece and then add 1/4 inch extra at the bottom edge.

shirt collar sewing
Cut two pieces for the collar stand – with 1/4 extra at the bottom edge

(Result is the top piece is understandably a little bigger)

You have two pieces of the stand collar ready.

Step 7. Sew the Collar leaf

Sew along the outer edge
Stitch the two collar pieces together along the edge of the interfacing

You have to keep the two collar pieces, right sides together and stitch them together along the edge of the interfacing. The red line in the above picture is the sewing line.

To sew the points of the collar properly, when you reach the collar point stop by leaving the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot and turn around, and then continue sewing.

For neat but sharp point at the tip of the collar, sewing experts suggest taking a stitch across before pivoting at the corner.

Clip the seam allowance every 1/2 inch and cut off the corners. You can cut very close to the point but be careful not to cut the seam.

Turn your collar right side out. Use a sharp tool to bring the point sharp.(Not so sharp that it will make holes; you can use a bamboo skewer, chopstick, a blunt pencil point etc)

right side out shirt collar
Turn shirt collar rightside out

At this point you can top stitch the collar. This will give a nice crisp look to the collar.

Step 8. Press the seam allowance

Step 9. Assemble the collar

Keep the top band collar piece rightside up infront of you. Keep the collar leaf on top. Refer picture below.

Keep the collar leaf on one of the band collar piece (without interfacing)

Keep the other band collar piece rightside down.

Place the other band collar piece rightside down on top of the leaf collarSew along the top edge, along the edge of the interfacing. Make sure you do not catch the side edges of the collar leaf when you sew.

The collar is sandwiched between the collar stand pieces
Sew along the interfacing edge

Sew along the edge of the under collar

 

shirt collar assembled
View of the shirt collar from the front

Step 10. Sew shirt collar to the neckline

the collar ready to be attached to the neckline Align the collar edge (back) to the back neckline

Start aligning the collar edge (back) to the back neckline

Sew the collar edge to the neckline. Start from the middle of the back neckline and proceed to the front on both sides.

This is how it will look from the back after the stitching is done. 

back of the shirt collar

The picture below is how the collar looks from the front. 

front of the shirt collar

The front edge needs to be finished now.

hand sew the stand collar edge

You can either hand sew the front edge or machine stitch. I am not confident enough to use a machine to sew this step – but machine sewing is how it is usually finished. Just fold the edge to the inside and sew. 

 

final shirt collar

 

Related posts : Different types of collars; How to sew a flat collar; How to sew a Polo collar; How to sew a mandarin collar

Updated on August 1, 2022 by Sarina Tariq

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3 thoughts on “How to sew a SHIRT COLLAR :Sewing tutorial”

  1. Hi, thank you for all of your tutorials. i found them easy to understand and use. Can you help with a teddy bear pattern? please!

  2. Hi! I’m in Togo ,and I love your teachings.they make me feel confident. I will study from yiur passionate experience.

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