Sew Guide » Make a pretty lace VEST with Mandarin collar

Make a pretty lace VEST with Mandarin collar

diy lace vest

A Vest is a sleeveless jacket. For a girl, a vest is something that she wears on top of her bodice and adds to the beauty of the dress she is  wearing . A lace vest – all the more so.

For layering Vest is best  and it also hides your worst ( pun unintended 😉 ). 

I love lace and try to incorporate lace in someway I can on my clothes and accessories. Checkout this post on different ways to add lace to your wardrobe. Sewing lace is slightly more challenging than other fabric – because it is a sheer, delicate & open weave fabric ; Checkout tips on how to sew lace if you want some solutions to lace problems.

Sewing Pattern for the lace vest

Step 1

Get your lace fabric . It took 1/2 meter of a 60 inch fabric to make this vest. I suppose if the width is lesser you could make it in 1 meter.

Checkout this post on the different types of lace fabrics you can make this pattern with.

 

lace vest pattern

Step 2

Make the pattern for the  lace vest

lace vest

A-B = 18″ – This is the length of the vest. You can increase or decrease this

A-C = 3″ ; This is the neck width

A-I = 1″ ; This is the neck depth

A-L = 8″ or you can calculate 1/4 of your bust round – 1/2 inch

L-K = 1/4 of Bust round + 1.5″

M-N = 1/4 of waist round + 1.5″ ( A-M should be length ffrom shoulder to waist)

B-G = 1/4 of hip round + 1.5″

G-H = 1″. This is to ensure that the vest donot overhang from the sides

C-D = 2″  This is the shoulder strap
D-E= 3/4″ This is the shoulder slope
A-F = 1/2 of shoulder . Mark down straight from F to the Armhole line. Mark this as R. Make a diagonal mark to S with 1″ measure. Draw curved armhole line KSE
R-S = 1″

Cut out the back pattern as below

lace vest sewing pattern

Step 3

Make the front pattern 

Keep the back pattern on another folded fabric. Keep it 1/4 inch inside from the edge. This way your front pattern can be marked 1/4 inch bigger. Mark the side seams, armhole  and shoulder and hem.Cut it out.

Keep aside the back piece. We will deal with the front pieces only now. Some changes in the neckline and armhole has to be made for the front pattern

lace vest stitching pattern
lace vestFront armhole – Mark T 3/4 inch from R of the back pattern. This is so that the front armhole is curved slightly inside ;R – T = 3/4″

Mark U diagonally from T ;  T -U = 1″ 

Join the arhole in a slight curve. 

The bottom edge is marked inside 3 inches from B . Make a curved edge and join smoothly to the neck width at C. Add a 1/4 inch edge outside of this line. This is your cutting line

Cut it out. You will get two pieces of front flaps.

lace vest tutorial and pattern

make a lace vest

Step 4

Cut a piece of bias binding strip . Do use a cotton bias strip. I used a polyester cloth to cut the bias strips because it matched my lace; but because of that the hem started curling as soon as the binding was done. On hindsight I should have interfaced. You sew and learn.

You need lots to bind the front lapels and back hem and the armholes.Checkout this post on making bias bainding strips  and on how to do bias binding. 

lace vest pattern

Step 5

Keep the bias strip right side down on the front lapel which is kept right side up. Basically you are bias binding the lapel edge. Sew the bias strip with a 1/4 inch seam allowance along the edge.

lace vest pattern

Trim closely to the stitching line. You may also want to clip the seam allowance near the curves so that the curves will lie nicely

how to make lace vest

Take the bais strip to the back. Fold under. Pin in place. Stitch the bias band in place.

make easy lace vest

Step 6

 Stitch the shoulder seams.

I did a french seam . To make the seam keep the front panels on top of the back piece, wrong sides inside ( Opposite of right sides together which is how you stitch a regular seam). Stitch the shoulder seams like this. Trim closely to the stitching line

lace vest cutting and stitching

Flip the seam and then stitch again enclosing the seam allowance inside.

sew a lace vest

Step 7

Cut out the collar pieces

Dimensions – Length = back neckline length + 4″ + 1″

width = 3″

I have cut lace piece as well as a lining piece which is interfaced.This  will be folded by the center lengthwise and then again folded by the center crosswise to mark the pattern given below. 

make simple lace vest

Cut out the collar pieces as per the pattern

The final collar piece will be 1.5 inch wide

lace vest tutorial

Keep them right sides together and stitch along the top side with a small stitch length and 1/2 inch seam allowance. After stitching Trim the seam allowance close to the stitching line

lace vest make

Turn the collar rightside out.

lace vest making and sewing

Step 8

Stitch the collar to the vest

Keep the collar rightsides together to the vest . Pin in place aligning the center of the collar and the back neckline center. Stitch in place. 

how to sew a vest

Now the underside collar is top stitched enclosing the seam allowance inside

lace vest stitching pattern

how to make a vest

Step 9

Sew the hem of the back piece

Step 10

Bind the armholes the sme way you did the front lapels.

Step 11

Sew the side seams . I did French seams here too. Because the seam allowances will be visible through the open weave  in lace , unless it is lined , the french seam works best here too.

 

Related posts 

different types of laces lace inserts how to sew lace adding lacefabric and trims

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