In your sewing life, you will come face to face with many curved edges. They are charming, definitely non-boring, but somewhat challenging.
Seams sewn with straight stitches are meant to be straight – so when you sew curved edges with straight stitches there is bound to be some difficulties. How to finish these, without it bunching up on you?.There are more than one way to finish the hemline along curved edges without the inevitable puckers.
How to finish curved hems
This is usually used on thin lightweight clothes – it achieves a very narrow hem.
First, mark the hemline. Fold the hem along this line to the back of the fabric and press it with iron. Use a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Sew along the pressed edge, just inside the folded edge. Please ignore my curved lines – it is supposed to be a nice smooth stitching line very close to the edge.
Trim the seam allowance very close to the stitching you have made.
This is the most important part of this whole process.
Now fold the edge again 1/8 inch to the inside. Sew the edge.
On the face you will have a single line of stitching. If it is the same color thread it will not look as conspicous as mine does. And you will get a very narrow hem without any puckers.
This refers to finishing the edge by enclosing it with a bias tape; it is a nice way to finish curved edges very neatly. Use a 1 1/4 inch bias tape for this
You can use ready made bias tape or a fabric strip cut on the bias for this.
Keep it along the edge and sew with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance to 1/8 inch seam allowance.
Turn the binding to the back. Fold the edge.
Top stitch from the front so that the back binding is caught. You can also stay stitch.
Related posts : Single fold vs double fold bias tapes; How to bind fabric edges with bias tape ; How to bind neckline with bias tape; How to make bias tape.
Use bias tape as facing
Use a single-fold bias tape as facing for the cut edge. You have to sew the bias binding tape as you would sew facing, turn it to the back and hand stitch in place. Because of the way a bias strip stretches, it can turn out nicely if the curve is not too steep.
Use Rolled hem foot
Finish the edge with a rolled edge – you can make it easily with the help of a rolled hem foot.
Related post : How to use a hemmer foot.
Serging gives an over cast edge – it is not the most beautiful looking finish but a very easy one if you have a serger. The serger also trims the extra fabric as it finishes the cut edge to make a very neat looking edge.
Using normal facing with tucks on a curved edge
If you are using regular wide facing you may have to sew several tucks or folds when you turn it over and sew it.
Related posts : How to sew hem with sewing machine – 20 ways ; How to hand sew a hem – 18 ways ; How to sew invisible hem ; How to hem pants ; How to hem jeans – 5 ways
Updated on October 21, 2022 by Sarina Tariq
These are great tips! I have been struggling with the tiny hem forever!
If you run a gathering stitch close to the edge first, you can ease the extra fullness in neatly when you turn under the hem.