Silk is a beautiful fabric, and when it is soft and drapey, it is the perfect fabric for sewing scarves. But not all silk fabric scarves are the same –type of silks used, the patterns and prints on it, its color, and then, most importantly, how the edges are finished – all can be as different as you want.
You might get confused by the many options of finishing the edges of your scarf – But for a silk scarf there are clear favourites – this tutorial is about these techniques.
The advantage of a silk scarf is that it can be incredibly soft, drapey and beautiful. But not all silks are soft and drapey – some are coarce, some crispy, some open weave. For sewing a scarf, you need a fabric with a smooth, soft hand that will drape nicely around your neck.
Crepe de Chine is a very popular material for making silk scarves. Silk chiffon is another favourite. If you like the shiny look, satin-silk is an option. Silk Charmeuse has a lustrous sheen which is quite attractive. But if you do not care about the sheen and you want a fabric with more drape, (silk charmeuse is a little heavy) you can choose a silk chiffon. If you are looking for a winter-ready scarf, but still with a good drape, you can get wool-silk blends.
There may be many weights to a particular type of silk fabric – you will have to choose this according to your personal preference.
The other difference will be in their weaves – Usually silk scarf fabrics will be of either satin weave or twill weave.
Twill woven silk will be stronger but has a dull finish. Satin weave silk will be shiny but less strong.
Real pure silk is expensive, so you have to be careful that you are getting the real one when you are spending the money for it. Check out this post to know the quality guidelines to look for in pure silk
Related post : Know which size to cut your silk scarf ? Here is that info- Dimensions of a scarf.
Finishing the edges of the silk scarf
Here is a video showing how you can edge your scarf with a lace trim
Hand rolling the edges of your silk scarf
If you are patient enough, you can hand stitch the edge – the advantage of a hand-stitched edge is that the stitch can be almost invisible on the front of the scarf if you are careful enough.
Use a matching colour for the thread – it should blend into the fabric.
To hand stitch, first fold the edge 1/8 inch twice to the inside; then bury the thread knot at the end of your needle inside the folded edge.
Take a stitch on the main fabric – with just 1 thread or two on the needle.
Now go back to the fold and take a small stitch.
Then go down to the main fabric and take one more thread. Continue this way till you have completed the whole 4 sides.
You can sew a small scalloped edge – this is very pretty, though not as strong as the earlier one.
To make this edge finish, fold the edge to the inside twice.
Insert the needle through the fold. The knot will be hidden under the fold now .
Make a straight overcast stitch. Go over the edge enclosing the edge with the thread.
Then bring the needle to the fold of the fabric and do a slip stitch (till the mark you have made, if have made them).
Make an over cast stitch again and repeat the above steps.
After you have made each edge stitch, pull the threads tight – this will automatically form the scallops.
Machine stitching the edges of your silk scarf
For thin lightweight fabrics, the usual edge finishing recommended is a rolled edge.
But there is a very conspicuous disadvantage to it. It is not so suitable for a silk scarf. You are looking for a drapey scarf, which is why you chose silk.
But when you use a rolled edge, it can create a stiff edge if done properly – that is, sturdy enough so that it would not unravel in the wash. So here is the paradox – if it is made nicely, it will not be soft and drapey and if it looks good, it will not be strong enough
But if you like this easy edge stitching you can check out this post on using a rolled hem foot to sew this type of hem.
Basically it is all about using the hemmer foot to fold the fabric edge and stitch it in one go.
So if you do not want this edge, what is the alternative?
A thin edge finishing can save your day – this involves two layers of stitching which still makes the edge soft and as two stitching is involved the hem is strong.
First fold the edge 1/4 inch to the inside and sew (edge stitch) along the folded edge. ie sew very close to the folded edge.
Using small scissors, cut off the extra allowance of the seam.
After the trimming is done, fold the fabric edge once again and sew the edge in place. Do not over fold. Just enough to cover the first fold.
Sew a beaded edge for your scarf:
Embellish your scarf
There are many ways to embellish your silk scarf – any of the method described in this post – Creative fabric enhancement ideas – can be used.
If you are thinking of dyeing your silk scarf do not forget to prewash it to remove all finishing.
Some silk scarf trivia :
The earliest known scarves appeared in ancient China, where royal women of the Shang Dynasty (around 1600 BCE) wrapped themselves in elegant silk veils and strips of cloth. These silk scarves became part of ceremonial dress and remained an important part of fashion for centuries. Not many countries knew how to weave silk and had no access to the beautiful fabric for a long long time. Silk road trade changed this and silk scarves reached Europe. And the rest, as they it is history.
There are accounts of printed silk squares and wraps being in fashion in London during the late 1800s. The first modern luxury silk scarf came from Hermès with the “Jeu des Omnibus et Dames Blanches” carré scarf. – a square printed silk scarf. It was 90 × 90 cm in size, with hand-rolled edges, and made of Chinese silk imported and printed in Europe. It was in 1937. Fashion designer Emilio Pucci made silk scarves iconic with bold colors and swirling prints during the 1950s.
Related posts :Different types of scarf fabrics; Types of silk fabric with names and pictures; How to hem by hand
Thanks Sarina!
This was helpful. I always enjoy the information you send.
This is very helpful! I’ve been struggling with the tiny hems for both silky scarf material and some cloth napkins I want to make. Your thin edge finish was very clear & I see my mistake now. Thank you!
GREAT INFORMATION.
KEEP IT UP