This is a sewing tutorial to make a very comfortable pleated straight pants with a flat front waistband and an elastic waistband for the back
How to sew the Pants
Step 1 Cut out the pattern pieces for the body of the pant
Totally to sew the pants you need 4 pieces for the body of the pant, two waistband pieces and 1 1/2 inch wide elastic
To cut the front pieces of the pants, take two fabric pieces (length equaling the length of the pants you want (plus 2 inch for the hem and top edge seam allowance minus 2 inch for waistband which negates the whole thing))- width of the pieces should be equal to 1/4 of your hip round plus 2 inch
For the back pieces – the same length as the front pieces ; they will be a little wider – width of the pieces should be equal to 1/4 of your hip round plus 5 inch.
Keep the front pieces right sides together as you mark and cut. Same for the back pieces. This is essential to get mirrored pieces that can be sewn by the middle seam to form the front and back of the pants
The 2 Front pattern pieces are to be cut as follows
The 2 Back pattern pieces are to be cut as follows
These are your front pieces when kept side to side.
And the back pieces.
Step 2 Join the leg pieces
Keep the two front pieces right sides together. Sew them together along the crotch seam.
This is what you get – your front piece.
Do the same with the back pieces .
Step 3 Join the two pieces together
You will only be sewing the outer side seams of the front and back pieces together.
As in the picture, keep the two pieces rightsides together and join both the outer side seams.
Step 4 Sew hem
At this point you can sew the hem of the pants (or do it last, after everything is stitched).
If you are sewing the hem, open the seam allowance and turn down the bottom edge twice, first 1/2 inch and then 1 inch. Press.
Sew in place. As you fold the hem you should ensure that the inner seams will be aligned properly at the crotch – if it does not, adjust the hem accordingly – or else you will have to unpick the seams later.
Step 5 Sew inner leg seam
Sew the inner seam together – this will complete the body of your pants.
Step 6 Prepare the waistband
Cut out two waistband pieces in the dimensions given below. The smaller one is the front waistband and the longer one for the back elastic waistband
Step 7 Sew waistband.
Join the waistband pieces together at the short edges forming a tube.
Fold the waistband by the middle and press in place.
Turn it inside out. Keep the elastic on top of the longer- back waistband ( cut elastic to the length equalling half of your waist) Sew and join the elastic to the waistband on one seam joint of the waistband.
Stretch the elastic and join the other end to the other seam joint.
Fold the waistband over the elastic and top stitch along the edge of the elastic – this keep the elastic in place inside the waistband. You will have to the move the elastic to the back as you stitch – forming the gathered waistband for the back.
Front of the waistband
Step 8 Form the pleat
Fold and pin in place a pleat on either side of the top edge of the pant – fold 1/2″ and a little more – totaling just short of 1 1/2″ for each fold.
Double check that the front waistband you have matches the front of the pants.
Step 9 Join the waistband to the pants
Keep the waistband rightside down on the pant top edge and stitch in place.Find the middle of the front waistband and pin in place before stitching.Start from the middle seam for the front and back for accurate stitching.