Out of all the ways to finish a neckline, using the facing method is the most foolproof. You can sew it like an expert and make it look very natural whatever your sewing experience is, in some easy steps.
There are 2 general types of neckline facing. One is the facing fabric cut in the shape of the neckline and the other one is a bias binding used as a facing. You can find how to bind a neckline using a bias binding in detail here – as many as 6 methods.
Fabric for the neckline facing
You can use the same fabric as the outer garment for cutting the facing or a lining material or any lightweight drapey fabric – in the same color.
Some like a little bit of a stiff finish to the neckline and they adhere lightweight interfacing to the back of the facing. You may also want to attach interfacing for adding support to the neckline or to define the shape. You can cut the interfacing to fall inside the seamline so that there is no unwanted bulk along the stitching line. Some may add the interfacing to the back of the original neckline rather than the facing.
How to sew the neckline facing
You must be having a front bodice piece and two back pieces (for joining the zipper in between) with the neckline already cut.
In this article I will cover:
Step 1 . Finish the back opening with zipper
Stitch the zipper as you would along with the back pieces.
I just sewed the invisible zipper with the invisible zipper foot.
Step 2 . Prepare the facing pieces
Cut the facing pieces in the shape of the neckline- for the front and the back. This is assuming that there is a zipper closure on the back.
Finish the lower edge of the facing pieces. Just turn under the edge to the inside and stitch a straight line along the edge.
Step 3 . Sew the facing pieces for the back
Open the zipper halfway. Now take the facing pieces for the back.
Keep them on the neckline edge and pin in place.
The extra at the edge (there will be extra because the center zipper sewing took some off the middle seam on your back pieces) will extend.
This has to be folded to the back.
Sew along the top edge.
Trim and clip the seam allowance
Open it up and Turn the facing to the back.
It will look like this.
The edge has to be stitched to the back. You can use a hand sewing needle and thread to sew the facing to the back. Do the same for the other side as well.
Ensure that both are level at the top edge.
You can add a small hook and eye at the top to make it more secure.
Step 4 . Sew the facing for the front bodice neckline
Now take the front bodice and the front facing. Keep the facing along the neckline and sew in place. Clip the seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance open
Now press the seam allowance towards the facing piece.
Understitch – understitching is stitching the seam allowance to the facing piece. This allows the facing to roll easily to the back.
It will look like this.
This facing will roll very nicely to the back and you can sew it there with invisible whip stitches. You can also sew the facing to the underlining or lining.
You can now join the shoulder seams of the front and back bodice to finish the neckline.Open the facings on both the bodices and then keep them rightsides together and join.This will give you a smooth shoulder seam.