Out of all the ways to finish a neckline, using the facing method is the most foolproof. You can sew it neatly and make it look natural regardless of your sewing experience.
There are two general types of neckline facings. One is a facing fabric cut in the shape of the neckline, and the other is a bias binding used as a facing. You can find how to bind a neckline using bias binding in detail here, including six different methods.
Fabric for the Neckline Facing
You can use the same fabric as the outer garment for cutting the facing, a lining material, or any lightweight drapey fabric in the same color.
Some prefer a slightly stiff finish to the neckline and attach lightweight interfacing to the back of the facing. You may also attach interfacing for additional support or to define the neckline shape. The interfacing can be cut to fall inside the seam allowance to avoid bulk along the stitching line. Some sewists attach interfacing to the back of the original neckline instead of the facing.
How to Sew the Neckline Facing
Watch the video tutorial
You should have a front bodice piece and two back pieces, with the neckline already cut and prepared for inserting a zipper.
Step 1. Finish the Back Opening with Zipper
Stitch the zipper to the back bodice pieces as usual.
If you want more details, check out these posts: How to attach invisible zippers · How to sew a zipper in the middle of fabric
I sewed the invisible zipper using an invisible zipper foot.
Watch a video of a simple neckline:
Step 2. Prepare the Facing Pieces
Cut the facing pieces in the shape of the neckline for both the front and back. This assumes there is a zipper closure at the back.
Finish the lower edge of the facing pieces by turning the edge to the inside and stitching along it.
Step 3. Sew the Facing Pieces for the Back
Open the zipper halfway. Take the back facing pieces and place them along the neckline edge. Pin them in place.
The extra edge created because of the zipper seam allowance will extend beyond the zipper edge.
Fold this extra edge toward the back.
Sew along the top edge.
Trim and clip the seam allowance.
Turn the facing to the back.
It will look like this.
The edge should be stitched to the back. Use a hand sewing needle and thread to sew the facing to the zipper edge. Repeat on the other side.
Ensure that both sides align evenly at the top edge.
You can add a small hook and eye at the top for additional security.
Step 4. Sew the Facing for the Front Bodice Neckline
Take the front bodice and front facing. Place the facing along the neckline and sew in place. Clip the seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance open.
Now press the seam allowance toward the facing piece.
Understitching means stitching the seam allowance to the facing piece. This helps the facing roll smoothly to the back.
It will look like this.
This facing will roll neatly to the back and can be sewn there with invisible whip stitches. You can also sew the facing to the underlining or lining.
You can now join the shoulder seams of the front and back bodices to finish the neckline. Open the facings on both bodices, place them right sides together, and sew the shoulder seams. This creates a smooth shoulder finish.
If you do not like the look and effort needed to sew facing for your neckline, there are other options like binding a neckline with bias tape or using a paper to make a turned under neckline, which is best for thin lightweight fabrics.
Related posts: Sewing necklines · How to sew a V-neck · Sweetheart neckline · Keyhole neckline pattern · How to draft patterns for different types of necklines · Which neckline designs suit you best
very good explanation !
I’m sorry, but the final instruction I do not understand: “You can now join the shoulder seams of the front and back bodice to finish the neckline.Open the facings on both the bodices and then keep them rightsides together and join.”
What do you mean by open the facings? What are we joining together and where?
Otherwise, great job and I especially love that you highlight where stitching occurs in color. That is really helpful for someone who has a hard time picturing descriptions, like me.
Thank you.
‘Open the facing’ means separate the facing and the main fabric to either sides. Do this for both the back bodice and the front bodice and then join the two at the shoulder seams (Aligning the seams). As the facing is ‘open’ 🙂 facings will be stitched together and the main fabric of the bodice will be stitched together. (Why don’t you try it on a small piece of mockup to see how it goes)
thank you very helpful Do you have instruction how to do a V Neckline
Hi Nancy
The post link to sewing V neck is given at the bottom of the post