How to sew Neckline Facing

sew neckline facing

Out of all the ways to finish a neckline, using the facing method is the most foolproof. You can sew it like an expert and make it look very natural whatever your sewing experience is, in some easy steps.

There are 2 general types of neckline facing. One is the facing fabric cut in the shape of the neckline and the other one is a bias binding used as a facing. You can find how to bind a neckline using a bias binding in detail here – as many as 6 methods.

Fabric for the neckline facing

You can use the same fabric as the outer garment for cutting the facing or a lining material  or any lightweight drapey fabric – in the same color. 

Some like a little bit of a stiff finish to the neckline and they adhere lightweight interfacing to the back of the facing. You may also want to attach interfacing for adding support to the neckline or to define the shape. You can cut the interfacing to fall inside the seamline so that there is no unwanted bulk along the stitching line. Some may add the interfacing to the back of the original neckline rather than the facing.

How to sew the neckline facing

You must be having a front bodice piece and two back pieces (for joining the zipper in between) with the neckline already cut.

Step 1 . Finish the back opening with zipper

zipper opening for the bodice
Select your zipper for the back opening

Stitch the zipper as you would along with the back pieces.

how to sew neckline facing.
Sew the zipper to the nback bodice

If you want more details check out these posts : How to attach invisible ippers ; How to sew zippers

I just sewed the invisible zipper with the invisible zipper foot.

Step 2 . Prepare the facing pieces

Cut facing pieces for the front and back according to the necklines

Cut the facing pieces in the shape of the neckline- for the front and the back. This is assuming that there is a zipper closure on the back.

Finish the lower edge of the facing pieces. Just turn under the edge to the inside and stitch a straight line along the edge.

Finish the edges of the facings

Step 3 . Sew the facing pieces for the back

Open the zipper halfway. Now take the facing pieces for the back.

Keep them on the neckline edge and pin in place.

The extra at the edge (there will be extra because the center zipper sewing took some off the middle seam on your back pieces) will extend.

how to sew neckline facing.
There will be some extra edge of the facing projected out at the zipper edge

This has to be folded to the back.

sewing neckline with facing
Fold this extra to the back

Sew along the top edge.

sew neckline with facing
Sew along the top edge

Trim and clip the seam allowance

seam allowance clipped
Clip the seam allowance for smooth turning

Open it up and Turn the facing to the back.

Turn the facing to the back

It will look like this.

sew facing edge to zipper side
Hand sew the edge to the side of the zipper

The edge has to be stitched to the back. You can use a hand sewing needle and thread to sew the facing to the back. Do the same for the other side as well.

Ensure that both are level at the top edge.

You can add a small hook and eye at the top to make it more secure.

Step 4 . Sew the facing for the front bodice neckline

Now take the front bodice and the front facing. Keep the facing along the neckline and sew in place. Clip the seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open

neckline facing sewing tutorial
Press seam allowance open

Now press the seam allowance towards the facing piece.

Press sea,m allowance to the facing side

Understitch – understitching is stitching the seam allowance to the facing piece. This allows the facing to roll easily to the back.

understitch facing and seam allowance
Understitch – stitch the seam allowance and the facing together for smooth turning

It will look like this.

This facing will roll very nicely to the back and you can sew it there with invisible whip stitches. You can also sew the facing to the underlining or lining.

You can now join the shoulder seams of the front and back bodice to finish the neckline.Open the facings on both the bodices and then keep them rightsides together and join.This will give you a smooth shoulder seam.

neckline facing sewing tutorial
Sew the shoulder seams together with the facings for back and front bodices

Related posts : Different types of necklines; How to sew V-neck.; Sweetheart necline ; Keyhole neckline; How to draft patterns for different types of necklines; Which neck line designs suits you best

Updated on August 1, 2022 by Sarina Tariq

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5 thoughts on “How to sew Neckline Facing”

  1. ‘Open the facing’ means separate the facing and the main fabric to either sides. Do this for both the back bodice and the front bodice and then join the two at the shoulder seams (Aligning the seams). As the facing is ‘open’ 🙂 facings will be stitched together and the main fabric of the bodice will be stitched together. (Why don’t you try it on a small piece of mockup to see how it goes)

  2. I’m sorry, but the final instruction I do not understand: “You can now join the shoulder seams of the front and back bodice to finish the neckline.Open the facings on both the bodices and then keep them rightsides together and join.”
    What do you mean by open the facings? What are we joining together and where?
    Otherwise, great job and I especially love that you highlight where stitching occurs in color. That is really helpful for someone who has a hard time picturing descriptions, like me.
    Thank you.

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