Lace trims are one of the finest embellishments for your clothes. There are 2 pretty ways to add lace to a neckline. One is to use an insertion lace trim and another is to use a lace trim (with one pretty edge and the other straight edge) as it is on the edge of the neckline.
Insertion lace along the neck edge
Insertion lace is a type of decorative lace that has two straight, finished edges and is designed to be sewn between two pieces of fabric. For sewing the insertion lace trim along neckline, you need your bodice with the neckline cut out specifically for this, (instruction given below) and a bias tape for binding.
Cut the neckline edge along the marked Line
Watch the video :
When sewing lace to a neckline with binding, you need to account for both the width of the lace and the binding seam allowance so that, the neckline doesn’t become too large.
Here’s how to determine how much to cut off:
- Measure the Lace and Binding
Lace Width: Measure the portion of the lace that will be inserted or sewn onto the neckline (excluding any decorative edges that extend beyond the stitching line).
Binding Width: If using single-fold binding, measure the width after folding in the seam allowance. If using double-fold binding, measure the width of the final binding edge. - Calculate the amount to cut off
A general rule:
Cut off an amount equal to the total width of the lace and half the width of the binding (since binding wraps around).
Formula:
Amount to cut = (Lace width) + (Half of binding width)
So, If your lace insertion is ½ inch wide and your double-fold binding finishes at ⅜ inch wide
Then: Cut off ½ inch (lace width) + ⅜ ÷ 2 (binding fold) = ⅝ inch from the neckline edge before attaching the lace and binding.
Position the lace along the neckline and stitch in place.
If you have hard lace, you may want to place the lace along the curve of the neckline and gently shape it with steam or an iron before sewing it. (If it is an insertion lace with a wide edge, you can also snip small cuts along the lace edge to help it mold to the curve, but for small lace trims like the one I am using, this maynot work.)
Align the Lace on the fabric edge. Place the insertion lace along the cut edge of the neckline (or 1/4 inches to the inside).
Using a straight stitch, stitch close to the lace edge. Ensure it is flat as you sew, but not stretched.
Turn the lace up.
Bind the top edge of lace with bias tape
Cut a length of bias tape slightly longer than the lace edge.
You can either use pre-made double-fold bias tape, or cut the bias tape for yourself from the same fabric as your bodice.
If making your own, cut a strip on the bias grain, about 1-1.5 inches wide, and fold the edges inward to meet at the center. Press to create a crisp fold.
Keep the bodice right side up in front of you. Open up the bias tape and Place the bias tape under the lace trim. ie. right side of the bias tape against the wrong side of the lace trim , aligning raw edges.
Start stitching the edges together.
Fold the bias tape up and over to the front, enclosing the lace edge.
Topstitch along the folded edge of the bias tape to secure it in place.
Gathered lace frill
is a nice addition to cute dresses for kids. Here is how to sew it.
Cut out the bodice according to your measurement. Do not cut out the neckline.
Cut out facing for the neckline- first cut out the interfacing in the shape of the neckline. Then adhere it to the facing. Cut out the facing fabric around the neckline. Leave just 1/4 inches along the neckline edge. Add 1.5 inches along the bottom edge.
Cut out the neckline of the bodice to match the facing.
Finish the bottom edge of the facing.
Select lace to add to the neckline.
Gather the lace – you can just fold the lace and stitch in place. Remeber to curve the lace at the beginning if you want the curved shape like a collar. You can also add it as one single piece.
Keep the gathered lace along the neckline – the bodice is kept right side up and the lace is kept right side down. Baste stitch in place.
Keep the facing rightside down on top of the lace.
Stitch in place. Clip the seam allowance. You can understitch the seam allowance to the facing for the facing to fall nicely to the inside (especially if you are not top stitching the neckline later)
Turn the neckline facing to the back and press in place.
Top stitch in place.
Related post : Sewing lace trim to sleeves ; How to sew lace trims on fabric